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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So quick recap..

I bought a 2007 R56 1.6 Cooper (not S) with 109,000 miles on it as a non-runner that had apparently ceased working after the timing chain had been replaced - it turns out that the crank stretch bolt hadn't been replaced with a new one and the crank timing gear was slipping. I don't have much info/history on the car other than a receipt for a clutch and the inept timing chain job, so I have no idea about any other pre-existing problems.

So, valves were bent, I managed to drop the cylinder head on the deck and damaged it a bit further so I ended up purchasing a second-hand cylinder head that has 70,000 miles on it.
It came intact with all the bits and bobs (cams, valves, Valvetronic motor, vacuum pump etc.) and the only things I had to move over from the old head were the two vanos solenoids.

So everything has been reassembled, new cam/crank bolts, new cylinder head bolts, new oil pump chain, head gasket etc. and the car started first time and I've took it for a short drive (can't go further than up the cul de sac and back again as it needs MOTing).

It will always start but then the behaviour can be variable. Sometimes the revs will go up then slowly come down until it nearly conks out.
Sometimes it sounds nice and even then the CEL comes on.

I have a cheapo ODB2 device that can retrieve codes and clear codes. I've cleared codes several times but the CEL always comes back on and various error codes are logged.

At present I have these codes logged:-

P2414 which I understand relates to the pre-cat o2 sensor. I did have this out and the wiring harness was an oily mess which I cleaned up (or thought I did).
P0162 which is (apparently) 'VVT Limp Home Request Full Stroke Position Reached (Bank 1) '

I have read about resetting adaptations - obviously what I now have mechanically is not what the car is used to running so I can see why this would have to be done but I don't have the software to do this.

Any pointers please ?

Thanks in advance,
Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, I was wondering if this was a possibility.

It was a cheap and cheerful Amazon job.
Taking on Mike1967's advice about possibly needing to shim it up to combat any free play between a cheap locking tool and the cams, I checked this and it was a tight fit so it wasn't necessary or even possible to get anything in there. I also re-checked the timing by re-applying the locking kit three times between hand-rotating the engine before torquing everything up.

I ran the car for 20 minutes yesterday just letting it idle after clearing the codes and the only code that is coming up at the moment is the P2414. Though worryingly the cooling fan didn't come on so that's something else I'll need to check up on.

As an aside, everything on this car seems to have been handled by a gorilla previously. It took me an hour to change the parking light bulbs due to somebody ramming them in previously and using some form of sealant. Somebody had 'fixed' the crankcase breather pipe with silicone and a socket. Bits of trim are broke inside and the driver's side window sounds like it's grinding itself to bits whilst it doesn't open.

It's certainly a project...
 

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Hi, I was wondering if this was a possibility.

It was a cheap and cheerful Amazon job.
Taking on Mike1967's advice about possibly needing to shim it up to combat any free play between a cheap locking tool and the cams, I checked this and it was a tight fit so it wasn't necessary or even possible to get anything in there. I also re-checked the timing by re-applying the locking kit three times between hand-rotating the engine before torquing everything up.

I ran the car for 20 minutes yesterday just letting it idle after clearing the codes and the only code that is coming up at the moment is the P2414. Though worryingly the cooling fan didn't come on so that's something else I'll need to check up on.

As an aside, everything on this car seems to have been handled by a gorilla previously. It took me an hour to change the parking light bulbs due to somebody ramming them in previously and using some form of sealant. Somebody had 'fixed' the crankcase breather pipe with silicone and a socket. Bits of trim are broke inside and the driver's side window sounds like it's grinding itself to bits whilst it doesn't open.

It's certainly a project...
i know a guy bought a cooper d like that some total moron had tampered with it badly and then added to it who ever worked on it was no better.
P2414 oxygen sensor code this could very well sort it self once car been driven for longer enough to get the closed loop switching from ecu as such, ie car at running temp and revs at 3000 revs for a good 20 minutes would do it without driving to but better to drive it, YOU CANNOT FIX THESE CARS WITH A GOOD DIAGNOSTICS ,,, to even begin with understanding what is going on,, ie need live data to run the 02 sensors and see what their voltages are ie on closed loop perfect engine etc 0.45v as middle voltage switching to 1.0v to 0.2v say as car trims ts fuelling and cat is doing its job, if both 02 sensors are reading same the cat is nailed or if one has no volts its sensor or ecu or wiring etc, another important thing never fit after market 02 sensors they a are so much hassle,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tell you Mike, I'm certainly no expert, but everything I've touched seemed to have been touched before and broken. I think oil has been aimed 'pretty close' to the filler and chucked at it in the past. If you remember I had to grind the locking nut off the roadwheel I needed to remove to do the timing because it had been over-tightened and knackered.

Thanks both of you for the input. I've just ran it for about 10 mins and drove round the side roads and the only code consistently logged is P2414 and the CEL has stayed off. No further codes relating to VVT or timing have been logged.

Regarding adptations - has 30 minutes or so of idling addressed this issue (if it even was one)?

I agree it would benefit from a good run, it's been sat on my drive for 5 months but I can't risk this without MOT and therefore insurance and legailty.

I also still haven't heard the cooling fan kick in so I'll need to check that too!
 

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ok going to tell you this little trick it will reset adaptions wont remove faults codes will retrain the ecu's to play nice like when first switched on on day one of being a car i was taught it as power latch below explains how to, this will drain all static in the ecu's ie white noise as such,
How to reset all ecu's

this procedure is called a power latch

firstly turn on the ignition not engine running,
open bonnet remove battery positive lead and then turn off ignition.
then touch the positive lead to earth,this powers down all ecus and resets erasing intermittent faults in the process.then reconnect the battery lead.
if the vehicle doesnt start straight away leave the ignition on for 2-3 mins as it has gone into anti scanning mode.

IMPORTANT PLEASE READ CAREFULLY
upon starting the vehicle DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE allow vehicle to idle until cooling fans cut in to allow the engine ecu to reset correctly and reprogramme the learning curve,then drive in all gears upto 4,000 rpm accellerating steadily.

as stated this resets all ecus so any electrical faults caused by conflict errors in programming will be erased and fixed.if the fault is still evident there is a problem that will need further diagnosis
 

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just cant see the point how some people will do a job badly all that energy for nothing, i know there is a money level we all live by when repairing something but sometimes its just best to let someone fix it that knows how to fix it correctly, i've always lived by the would i drive it to scotland right now after fixing it, and i have repaired vauxhals with the cylinder heads melted with holes in them and never seen them back with same issues ever again , just cant see point in not repairing something correctly to be honest, never spent 4 years learning for certs to do a bad job, rather just e upfront with everything..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wth regards to turning the ignition off, with the fob being locked into the dash, I'm not sure how you turn the ignition off as you would if it was the usual key-in affair ?

Went through the procedure anyway. No errors re VVT or timing now. Just still the o2 sensor P2414.
 

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fob plugged in to dash press button once or just remove the fob from the dash, 02 sensor fault live data run would tell you if sensor fault or if cat fault etc,i always say after big engine jobs like timing chain must always run car from cold to hot to cold to hot a few times ie a 3000 revs for 40 minutes so as to get everything working hard this is where the cat and 02 sensors will either just not work or clean them selves with correct fuel air mixes and heat that a correctly timing engine will now do, before it ran for a number years maybe wrong timing and ecu would of tried to balance all the parameters to keep running within the set parameters of fuel and air mix etc,, ie this is called adaptations ie ecu learns and makes allowances for incorrect timings ie its a programmed tolerance in the ecu learnings. to reset these takes the ecu back to day one etc to relearn over time the best settings to run on,, this all said running those engines with stretched chain does melt internals on upstream 02 sensor and cat if driven for to long like it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cheers Mike,

fob plugged in to dash press button once
That's what I did.

In a quandry now, I can't drive it around to get everything to bed-in as it has no MOT and it probably won't pass the MOT as it is and it will pop the CEL after 3 starts after clearing and will fail on that!
 

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40 minutes at 3000 revs or more time doing it ie get fan on etc could even try adding heat with heat gun on exhaust cat if after 3 of those cold to hot then its a issue with the hardware and not just adaptions,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, some progress. The P2414 code is gone now. To be replaced consistently by....P111A. Symptoms are a little bit of hunting at idle on start up and hesitancy under acceleration.
 

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map sensor or more likely air leak within inlet after or around the map sensor location maybe,, might find the leak with can of easy start spray and short bursts at areas around inlet pipes and inlet manifold or breather pipe work, ie pcv pipework common places after rebuild ir cracked pipe or not connected right on to inlet manifold, also another common things are wiring damage on wiring from ecu to top of thermostat housing on the head lots of tiny wires that get bashed a lot after head off jobs, also check the plugs
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Mike. Idiot that I am, I noticed a botched repair to the pcv pipework but left it in a bid to get the car going before I went on my jollies. Sure enough, just got the hose off and there was another split in it. Off to get some O's....
 

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So quick recap..

I bought a 2007 R56 1.6 Cooper (not S) with 109,000 miles on it as a non-runner that had apparently ceased working after the timing chain had been replaced - it turns out that the crank stretch bolt hadn't been replaced with a new one and the crank timing gear was slipping. I don't have much info/history on the car other than a receipt for a clutch and the inept timing chain job, so I have no idea about any other pre-existing problems.

So, valves were bent, I managed to drop the cylinder head on the deck and damaged it a bit further so I ended up purchasing a second-hand cylinder head that has 70,000 miles on it.
It came intact with all the bits and bobs (cams, valves, Valvetronic motor, vacuum pump etc.) and the only things I had to move over from the old head were the two vanos solenoids.

So everything has been reassembled, new cam/crank bolts, new cylinder head bolts, new oil pump chain, head gasket etc. and the car started first time and I've took it for a short drive (can't go further than up the cul de sac and back again as it needs MOTing).

It will always start but then the behaviour can be variable. Sometimes the revs will go up then slowly come down until it nearly conks out.
Sometimes it sounds nice and even then the CEL comes on.

I have a cheapo ODB2 device that can retrieve codes and clear codes. I've cleared codes several times but the CEL always comes back on and various error codes are logged.

At present I have these codes logged:-

P2414 which I understand relates to the pre-cat o2 sensor. I did have this out and the wiring harness was an oily mess which I cleaned up (or thought I did).
P0162 which is (apparently) 'VVT Limp Home Request Full Stroke Position Reached (Bank 1) '

I have read about resetting adaptations - obviously what I now have mechanically is not what the car is used to running so I can see why this would have to be done but I don't have the software to do this.

Any pointers please ?

Thanks in advance,
Steve.
I had a similar sounding problem to yours. The car would start but not run smoothly then hunt and revs rise and fall.
It turned out to be the Vanos solenoid. Changed for another (I had a spare) and the engine ran as sweet as a nut. It was an N14 Cooper s and I changed everything on the Vanos side as I knew it was timing related. I even changed the camshaft. The Vanos had oil so was partially working.
Good luck as it is probably something simple.
 

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Thanks Mike. Idiot that I am, I noticed a botched repair to the pcv pipework but left it in a bid to get the car going before I went on my jollies. Sure enough, just got the hose off and there was another split in it. Off to get some O's....
it happens from time to time just get one bloody car that makes every one look silly so many things are possible
 

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Discussion Starter #17
While I wait for the new hose to arrive which will hopefully be the end of the engine woes I have looked at (some of) the other issues with the car.
The Driver's side electric window not moving and accompanied by a horrible grinding noise turned out to be a snapped cable that has wrapped itself around the winding mechanism (so I'll need a regulator), the door mirrors not working was a combination of the switch being forced (so that just needed to be taken apart and reassembled) and a blown fuse. I'll start a new thread about the driver's door lock......I'm sure I'll find more when I actually start driving the thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had a similar sounding problem to yours. The car would start but not run smoothly then hunt and revs rise and fall.
It turned out to be the Vanos solenoid. Changed for another (I had a spare) and the engine ran as sweet as a nut. It was an N14 Cooper s and I changed everything on the Vanos side as I knew it was timing related. I even changed the camshaft. The Vanos had oil so was partially working.
Good luck as it is probably something simple.
Thanks for this, I'll hang fire doing anything else though till I get the breather pipe on and see what happens then.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Well then.

I've finally got the replacement breather hose and fitted it. The air filter was grotty so I replaced that too.

The engine sounds a lot better and the car drives better but the code P111A remains and has been joined again by P2414.

There's no engine light on (as yet).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got a P2626 error as well which relates to the O2 sensor so I picked up a new O2 sensor and fitted that. So far, so good. No error codes so I've booked it in for it's MOT. Fingers crossed!
 
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