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R56 N12 exhaust timing issue after overheat .

995 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  JTownPBX
In have fixed many many serious engine issues on 2nd gen minis, have tools, knowledge and lots of experience.
I have a persistent issue with all overheated N12's I worked on.
All related to exhaust cam timing.
Latest is a 2013 R56 N12 with 50K miles, it overheated, no cracks in the head, valve cover ok, no melted plastic.
Mini started on 4 cylinders and ran ok for a few minutes after I got her before pulling head.
Water in oil, and exhaust fumes in coolant, so removal of the head was needed.
Pulled head, surfaced head and checked for vacuum and leaks , all fine.
Assembled, she started immediately, but stalled 30 seconds later.
Checked valve timing, and found exhaust timing grossly off, was able to move exhaust cam with sucking noises from the vanos unit.
It is the same as I have experienced with all overheated N12's.
There are none return valve in the head for the vanos, intake as well as exhaust,
Valves are fine, no issues.
It's a repeated issue, every overheated N12 I have seen has this problem.
suggestions ?

Thanks.
Henri.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
did you replace both camshaft vanos sprockets have found on water damaged engine they can corrode inside and stick,
also when you put head h=back together and the vvt steppa motor is not installed where does the vvt concentric shaft start to have spring loaded pressure,,, ie correct point is its on the hook shaped bump stop and has spring pressure from all the valve train pushing it back to the bump stop,,, if its 10mm off the stop then i would say spring fingers on the vvt upper follower's are damaged by the heat or are not in correct groove in the upper cam follower post as such,,, the very tips of theses springs must only locate to the cut at rear of follower,,,, when they get so hot the spring seems to expand and the drop out on cooked engines i had this my self on a few of them over the years and the very first time i had it it really did stop me in my tracks for a while trying to work it out ,,,
the way the system works is on first cold start up ecu is in default where vvt is not activated until the 02 sensors cut in on closed loop,, as soon as this happens they wont run right and sound terrible like a diesel ,,
if remove rocker cover and rotate engine and listen to the valve train,, you should hear no clicks no movement noises that are clicky from inlet vvt assembly if the system is right,,, also look at the followers to the valve followers they all should be straight and pushed forward evenly,,, like said pull the vvt motor out and see if it returns to bump stop by its self is a good sign things are not right,,
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Not that I have a N12 I got the N14 What I did was remember to keep my exhaust timing the exact same as I found it. It was not 90 degree's when I found it. So I hollowed out a set of cheap cam locks and bought a another set to cross reference with as a check.
This mini lost all coolant in seconds, as the lower radiator hose was severed by something sharp, the only water I found in the oil was slight condensation in the valve cover, car sat for a few months,
Oil looks actually nice, and don't think corrosion in the the vanos happened.
Overheat was slight, head needed some machining but nothing serious, no burned oil smell, or damaged /warped valve covers due to heat, VVT works fine, and have BMW/Mini software to verify.
What is the issue is actual vanos positioning of the exhaust cam.
I think there is a lack of oil flow to the exhaust vanos assembly as I can move the exhaust cam fairly feely with sucking noises coming from the front cam bearing, it appears there is air in it. Intake is solid.
I can set timing, keep the valve cover open, crank for 15 seconds, and timing is off.
As for N12 vs N14, the N12 has a vanos unit on the exhaust cam, N14 does not.
I can move the exhaust cam fairly feely with sucking noises coming from the front cam bearing, you answered your problem your self its the exhaust vanos free moving ie failed
This mini lost all coolant in seconds, as the lower radiator hose was severed by something sharp, the only water I found in the oil was slight condensation in the valve cover, car sat for a few months,
Oil looks actually nice, and don't think corrosion in the the vanos happened.
Overheat was slight, head needed some machining but nothing serious, no burned oil smell, or damaged /warped valve covers due to heat, VVT works fine, and have BMW/Mini software to verify.
What is the issue is actual vanos positioning of the exhaust cam.
I think there is a lack of oil flow to the exhaust vanos assembly as I can move the exhaust cam fairly feely with sucking noises coming from the front cam bearing, it appears there is air in it. Intake is solid.
I can set timing, keep the valve cover open, crank for 15 seconds, and timing is off.
As for N12 vs N14, the N12 has a vanos unit on the exhaust cam, N14 does not.
The exhaust camlock of a N12 is of the same design as a N14.

Mini started on 4 cylinders and ran ok for a few minutes after I got her before pulling head.

With the flywheel pin in and the labels facing up did the exhaust camlock go directly on? Or was there a tool involved to center the exhaust camshaft?
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