2C56 - Turbo pressure regulation. plausibility. pressure too high - Intermittent ,, diverter valve or vac leak or boost solonoid , or boost leak somewhere need smoke test the system to know for sure not a crack or split pipe , so common i have smoke tested this week 8 cars 4 of them had leaks causing ill running and boost fault codes,
2C58 - Turbo pressure regulation, disconnection, pressure build-up blocked - Intermittent ,, this would make me suspect the diverter valve on the turbo , or boost fault with vac pipes or vac pump etc
Just picked my car up after timing chain replacement.
Pic shows how much timing was out by.
Timing was out by this much because chain was stretched.
Timing chain kit, aux belt+tensioner, oil filter (i supplied my own oil), all in with 5 hours labour £699.80
Had to wait 3 weeks for the booking though.
Only really noticed the chain rattle last couple of weeks when it was cold.
All plastic guides were intact.
I was beginning to notice, in handbag...I mean default/non sport mode, once warm, revs were slow to pick up and would hang for a second when you released the loud pedal, before dropping back.
Feels and sounds a million times better now.
Is it possible timing being this far out could have been giving me my 2c56 overboost errors?
Borescope arrived today, will be very handy for scoping out the pressure convertor etc
need to smoke test it all, replace the diverter valve see what you got, might also be worth changing the boost controller under the inlet manifold,, on the turbo the penny valve might be worn out all fixable for not to much money as can buy the cast body with it in and change the cartridge
2 weeks since timing chain change and I have had no further issues.
Codes 2c56 and 2c58 have not come back.
Turbocharger seems to be behaving/doing its thing.
Am fitting a boost guage to be sure.
Just got to connect it up (hopefully this weekend).
Only a very cheap Amazon special guage and 3d printed mount but I think its the best option. Easily visible when driving.
Also replaced oil feed heat shield and got new Pipercross air filter
Now also have all the tools needed to get under the car, trolley jack, axel stands etc, and change Boost solenoid but doesnt seem to need it now. Bloody typical.
WIll have a look anyway and will use them to sort rear end out.
Slight knocking from OS rear over bumps. Cant put it down to the run flats anymore.
Rear sub frame looks a bit rusty too.
And Im guessing there should be bolt in this hole?
A word of caution to anyone considering Meyle HD ARB end links.
The ball joint/knuckle is considerably bigger than oem and there is no clearance to insert lower long bolt without droppping hub end of lower control arms.
Fitting new pads and disks today and struggling to get calipers back on. Pads are so thick I have to force capliper on and wheels are binding. They are EBC yellowstuff pads.
Should they be this tight? They have a red wear in coating, is this designed to bind and wear off quickly?
Dont know what to do. Whether to put old pads back in or not?
when I get them like that I put some 60 grit sand paper on a flat surface and run the pad on it until fit , joys of aftermarket pads, also lightly do this on a normal brake service and same on discs gets rid of any glaze
Have put the old pads back in. Could barely turn the wheels by hand with new ones in.
This is the knid of thing where experience counts.
I just dont know if they are too tight or not. New pads measure up the same as brembo/OEM equivalent which are 18mm thick too.
Just worried that pads binding that much will heat up and warp disks.
Phoned Neo brothers to check they sent me the correct pads.
Says Mini JCW 2003 -> on the box.
They assured me they are the correct ones and they are a physical match for my old ones aside from being a lot thicker.
They suggested giving pad carrier a damn good clean to get rid of any rust build up. Thought I had but I guess it could be cleaner. Will deploy the 60 grit if all else fails
Having another go at the weekend.
Need to replace lower pad carrier bolts anyway as I mangled them so bad getting them off.
is it the thickness of the pad it self or is it the mounting points on the pad to carrier ie its mount point i have a lot of time had to file the ears to fit many times , i tend to put carrier in vice and use a wire brush on a drill or angle grinder then i use flat file to clean the surfaces they sit on, after a coat of krust rust inhibitor a good idea prevents the rust coming back for many year