[mike1967]

crankshaft should have no more than a 000.10mm of thrust play ie crack in and out and same if lever the pulley end up and down, there should be no play in the locking of crankshaft ie the pin that slides in to the flywheel should fit tight as no movement of crank in either direction and all 4 pistons are at same height in the bores,
head gasket are done in notches ie the gaskets have 1 to 4 notches or holes in the tab that is on side of them, 1 being thin and 4 being 4 over sizes, if you had head skimmed the machine shop would know how much as been removed, if dont know then always go for 4 notch gasket,
the timing of these engines is very complicated the first time you do one and must be done correctly, and a preload must be put on the chain before tightening the cams and crank bolts always do the crank bolt first, the preload on the chain must mimic the spring load from tensioner failure to do this will throw timing out, i've seen garages try a few times and then ring me up to come show them before, also before doing up the final stretch on bolts must rotae the engine 4 times and then relock it with the tools if not just fall in to place try again

 

[mike1967]

where to start un picking,
VANOS is nothing to do with how far the valves travel between open and closed
VVT is on the inlet valves the ecu on car tells a step motor that is located on the rear of cylinder head this motor must be set with a allen key so remove slack after all back together switch ignition on you should hear the motor finding it stops, then switch off and then set with Allen key to remove slack while not allowing it to wind off its stops as such.
the correct torque and stretch for camshafts bolts are as follows, first 20NM to hold them then after you have turned engine by hand for 4 turns and relocked the timing tools back in pace and every thing just falls in to place, you can then do the rest of the tighten process, which is 180 degrees or stretch for both,, i mark the torx bolt with tipex and watch for it to move half a turn,, the crankshaft bolt must be 40NM plus 120 degrees stretch and must be tightened first before camshafts as it has most load more of a chance of throwing the timing out each time,,, once this bolts is tight and before tighten the camshafts for piece of mind recheck the timing by remove locks and turn engine and relock the engine,,
BARE IN MIND THE PRELOAD TOOL FOR THE CHAIN TENSIONER FACTORY SAY 0,6NM THAT IS JUST OVER HALF A NM,, NO TORQUE WRENCH THATS CHEAP WILL DO THIS,, SO TURN IT BY HAND WATCHING THE CHAIN TO MIMIC THE FORCE THE TENSIONER SPRING WOULD HAVE ON THE CHAIN,, WARNING FAILURE TO GET THIS PART RIGHT WILL THROW TIMING OUT, NEVER USE A SOCKET ON IT JUST FINGERS,,,
als before ever trying to start it turn engine with plug out by hand so can feel it anything is going to lock and go stiff if goes stiff then timing is out,
oil pump chain MUST DO BEFORE INSTALLING TIMING CHAIN, drop the sump only way might need to drop the front of exhaust , i dont i made a tools for undoing the 8mm bolts under that are blocked by it,
also when locking the crankshaft you will need 2 metal rods same length that will fit in number 1 and number 2 plug holes then turn crank until both at same height and the locking hole will either be right there or you might be 180 degrees out,, THE CRANKSHAFT WHEN LOCKED CORRECTLY WILL NOT TURN EITHER WAY EVEN WITH A LONG BAR ON END OF CRANKSHAFT,, and the camshaft when locked have writing on them in the middle thinner will clean them enough to see it this writing must be facing upwards when drop the cam locks on,
NEVER JUST USE THE CAMSHAFT LOCKING TOOLS TO HOLD THE CAMSHAFTS WHEN DOING UP THE TORX BOLTS IT WILL BEND THEM AND THEN THE CAM CAN MOVE TIMING WILL ALWAYS BE OUT THEN, YOU MUST HOLD CAMS WITH 27MM SPANNER NO OTHER WAY CORRECTLY, SOME PEOPLE DO USE MOLGRIPS BUT NOT A GOOD WAY OF DOING IT

 

[mike1967]

the first stage of 20nm on cams and 40nm on crank is a must do part as is the unlock and rotate the engine and relock and if correct the cam locks will just drop back on on if dont then loosen one cam bolt reset where it fits back in,, also you can try the sprung tensioner in and retest if all locks stay in line its all good, the reason for this i have done thousands of the bloody things and most dont time up the first time you do this some do most dont,, i have helped so many on here all had one thing in common they never checked it before doing the final stretch on the bolts and all of them had cars that would not rev when back on road and EML and cps codes up. if at work i just slapped them back together with out taking the time to do this process i would be out of work as each time its a new set of bolts and big strip down just because i never checked and double checked it,, up to you what ever works for you just telling you how i do them,
the dummy tensioner is a must do part ie it must be in place when doing up bolts as the spring tenioner its possible the spring will give and something can get out of time maybe,, 3mm out on crank is 6mm out on cams 3 degrees of retarded timing is enough it will run but will feel laggy

 

[mike1967]

the crank bolt is 40NM plus 120 degrees ir mark the socket and rotate the nut after doing the 40 nm by 120 degrees,, there are 360 degrees is a total revaluation,,
yes nip cam up to 20nm, the crank to 40nm then remove lockes rotate engine by hand ie use the crank pulley bolt MUST BE CLOCKWISE NEVER ANTICLOCKWISE OR YOU WILL PUSH THE TENSION IN AND TIMING WILL BE WRONG
head gaskets so your old head gasket do you still have it, if so there will be a tab that sits outside of the two faces tha will have 1 to 4 holes drilled in it, these are called notches in the trade, 1 notch is factory standard 4 notches is as much as can skim them,, the machine shop will know what they removed off the head they also should be able to tell the thickness of the head when it was sat or the skim machine, after all you have said its more likely not got timing right, dont feel bad i have seen techs get it wrong the first time easy to do,
And it's not easy but better then people telling me it's a bolt that is loose when it was piston valve clearance the whole time,,, your words also your words were crank bolt and only 40NM and no final stretch done and i promise you that must be done up the way i say they need to, also the surfaces must be oil free, shame your not nearer me i would of pop over and set the timing for you takes me 30 minutes ish these days done so many, so a good hour of checking and setting ensure its timed right just be fore doing the stretch part on the bolts,
ALWAYS TIGHTEN CRANK BOLT FIRST AND STRETCH PART IE 120 DEGREES
THEN EXHAUST CAM THEN INLET CAM
honestly the process is the key the checking and double checking ie with preload tool in and with the spring tensioner in after both if timed correctly should drop on to camshafts no force with cranks locked, ALSO YOU MUST HOLD THE CAMSHAFTS WITH 27MM SPANNER IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE THIS THE CAM LOCKS WILL BE BENT OPEN AND CAM THEN MOVE ALL OUT OF TIME,

 

[mike1967]

i will private message you my number i'm in the uk i've been sticking a engine in a truck tipper truck today and just stopped so will send it in the morning you can ring me tomorrow and i will explain on a phone call

 

[mike1967]

facts are you had it running once so must of got timing correct or fairly close, you never done up the crankshaft bolt enough ie the main issue ie when engine rev'd it rotated on crankshaft and done the valves, i would also check the vac pump on exhaust cam shaft has not failed on the bearing and is stopping the exhaust camshaft or creating to much drag, as for head gaskets when ever i do a one that i'm going to map i fit the 4 notch gasket ie max size as can are mover air and fuel very slightly to each cylinder and can add more power, that said its so small dont make much difference also more clearance when the engine gets some miles on it and chain stretches again more clearance, if were me would buy the gasket from engine builder then will know its correct size,

 

[mike1967]

SO I heard the part where you said don't torque angle the bolt for the crank until the test was done. I will try to be careful and turn the crank pully only during that part with the dummy pre tensioner in place then graduate to the real tensioner and finally if it passes the test of holding timing under that condition a hour or two hours of me rotating it by hand four revolutions each time then I will torque angle all three gears starting with crank bolt and ending with the exhaust cam bolt. ........ yep thats all you need to do ie never stretch bolt untll you know its timed right, also hold the camshaft with 27mm spanner or pair of molgrips while doing the stretch part to prevent any movement in camshaft is very important

 

[mike1967]

if timing fails the test reset by the cam locks ie chances are it will be the inlet cam, HOLD THE CAM SHAFT FROM THE GEARBOX SIDE OF CAM SHAFT THERE IS 27MM WITHIN THE CASTING OF THE CAMSHAFTS,
WARNING,,,,,,, DO NOT ALLOW THE CAMSHAFT LOCK TOOL TO HOLD THE CAMS WHEN DOING UP THE TORX BOLTS FOR CAM SPROCKETS,,,,,, IF YOU HAVE EVER DONE THIS AND CAM SHAFT MOVES WITHIN THE LOCK TOOL,,, BUY NEW LOCK TOOL AS YOURS A=HAS BEEN BENT,, IT DONT TAKE MUCH

 

[mike1967]

below link order the 27mm spanner option

1pc Extra Thin 3mm Open Ended Spanner Wrench Set - Sizes 6mm up to 27mm New | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1pc Extra Thin 3mm Open Ended Spanner Wrench Set - Sizes 6mm up to 27mm New at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[mike1967]

the tensioner is not oil pressure fed it relies on the spring the oil hole is lubrication mainly.
if your putting 5inch pounds of torque on the tensioner preload tool its not correct, its in the book at 0.6nm newton meters or torque,, but what i do i to mimic the amount of spring pressure on the spring tensioner, ie set all the chain on loose sprockets the with chain loose start turning the pretension tool shaft with finger and thumb only, watch the chain go tight from this pint give it maybe another 3/4 of a turn this should give enough load ie preload to the chain,, after this point do the camshaft bolt to 40nm and the camshaft bolts to 20nm,,, once done remove the pretenion tool and insert the spring tenioner rotate the engine a few times then relock the engine with timing tool, if the engine goes back to timing up all line up then move on to the stretch bolts side of it,,
i always do the crankshaft one first leave the locking pin in crankshaft can use that pin to level on when doing up the bottom bolt,, ie its already got 40nm add 120 degrees to that, once done this then back up to camshafts,, they already have 20nm on them both cam locks should be bolted down so cams cant move.. if any movement in cams then locks are bent either use feeler gauge to stop this or buy new ones, YOU MUST HOLD THE CAMSHAFTS WITH A THIN 27MM SPANNER WHILE DOING THE STRETCH BOLTS,,, what i do is do the camshafts in 2 stages ie they already are set to 20nm then add 90 degrees then a further 90 degrees on each one,, the book say 180 degrees but i have in past had the odd bolt snap so since then i do it like above and have never had one go south since,,
IMPORTANT THE BOLT THREADS MUST BE OILED BEFORE FITTING, THE SURFACES ON ALL SPROCKETS IE CAM TO SPROCKETS MUST BE DRY AND OIL FREE, USE PANEL WIPE OR SWITCH CLEANER THINNERS
SAME WITH THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT ANS BOTTOM SPROCKET,, ITS A FRICTION FIT

 

[mike1967]

yep in a perfect world a diy repairer would have a accurate torque wretch to set 0.6nm of force on the pretension tool bu at that level just a over used thread on it would not give same torque same as a brand new one with dry thread and oiled thread would give a differnt reading, i also found chain kits would deffer due to the after market tensioer spring having not same force as a factory one or even the latest tensioner has a different force on its spring, hence why better to mimic the load it takes to push chain tight without distorting the guides,, i know this work because i always read the vanos positions with software after like below

 

[mike1967]

but you know as well as I that test tensioner makes that guide start to move toward the piston side as you tighten the screw up it looks skewed ,,
IMPORTANT when you make up the two guides they clip in only one way together,, ie without chain in the middle you look at the pivot point in the middle this joint must be done in a set way as to twist the guides together so they interlink together on back and front of the guides centre pivot
below link might help you

MINI Cooper R56 Turbocharged Engine Timing Chain Guides Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

See how to replace the timing chain and guides on MINI Turbocharged engines.

www.pelicanparts.com

 

[mike1967]

anyway i'll let everyone else help you some more

 

[mike1967]

these books tend to show just enough to get you in to trouble most of the time,

 

[mike1967]

it dont matter where the oil chain sprocket sits on crankshaft in ref to the timing chain sprocket. i offered you to call me back when i was off work for a few days and has your in the states and i'm in uk would be a expensive call anyway, also on top of that you also were asking for other peoples input on your chain timing, so i thought i would let others guide you through it, all the info on how to is all in this post. ie what i have wrote is all based on the fact i have been a car tech all my life and have lost count the amount of timing chains i have changed ie the first time and never bent any valves doing so to date,

 

[mike1967]

I still can't rightly tell if the valves are dinging the pistons or not as I rotate; answer to this is when turn crankshaft by the 18mm crank pulley bolt clockwise only by hand slowly if anything touches you will know has it will stop turning,

 

[mike1967]

1, the two side guides must interlock together if look at centre pivot point you will notice they can only clip together correctly one by rotating one guide while ensuring the clip together,, on both sides of the pivot, and yes a dad of sealer on the 4 guide posts,
below are screen shots of all the info and picture for timing chain replacement

 

[mike1967]

use what have added in pictures as your ref for doing the chain as what you have wrote about what ever your using i.m now confused with that,, the pics i posted are what we in the trade use to do these jobs so are 100% correct,

 

[mike1967]

just stop thinking of other ways of doing it so many wrong ways to do it ,one way to do them right and more to the point to know you have done it right, is by far the point, i have wrote on this post a number of times how to do them and get them right the first time,, sometimes its just no point trying to reinvent the wheel

 

[mike1967]

I know your right for the most part. hmmm yep that was funny, in the past 3 weeks i've done 4 timing chain replacements on same engines all done within 5 hours all were checked with diagnostics and all were within 1 degree if not zero degrees, guess i must try harder lol to see if i can get it from "for the most part" to 101% maybe, nothing you have wrote makes sense, ie you have primed the fuel system before fitting the timing chain, no need to prime the fuel system except for when its all back together and ready to start,, ie turn key listen to fuel pump in tank when it stops do this another 4 or 5 times fuel primed within a few cranks it will fire, you cannot prime the fuel system without a timing chain on if ts a turbo engine as high pressure pump runs off the inlet camshaft powered by the chain system. WOULD NEVER CRANK THE ENGINE OVER WITH TIMING CHAIN NOT TOTALLY FITTED AND STRETCH BOLTS DONE ETC AND TIMING SET AND CHECKED ,