Today I have installed the timing Chain. Let me start by saying this could just be a dry run, But I have done it. In either case I will install the timing chain again after I have primed the fuel to the engine meaning letting the car run for about 30 seconds after the three presses of the start button to prime the fuel. Letting the engine even out after it's hard first start, but not letting it get to the point of dieseling /or advancing which would be about 1 minute after the fourth press of the start button.
I have come along way sense last entry here. I got scared when I installed the cylinder head because the camshafts were installed and all, but I had the rotations of them out of wack. Now that does not matter so much. But I took the head back off..then I pulled each valve to check for striaghtness, I installed new valve stem seals and rotated the cam just short of being labels up and installed the head again with new head gasket, I got everything hooked back up as it concerns intake,exhaust,coolant systems.
Now today I started by installing the crank bolt. I spent yesterday and previous days preparing for this, by cleaning all the mating surfaces for the new crank bolt. I then proceeded to install it. After installing the hub and bolt. I tightened the bolt down figure tight. On the top end at the same time I used a assorted seal prybar a smaller one to hold the chain at the top of the cylinder head. I zip tied the slack of the chain so there was no slack at the bottom where the hub and crank gear is at. I did not fastened the plastic guides aside of the cylinder head chain guide bolt. As I had the motor mount in place and installed for the crank bolt tightening sequence. I used a small flashlight and positioned the crank timing gear into place with the oil pump gear lining the teeth up(earlier I had lined the teeth up anyway; I was just double checking).
Once I new the gear were positioned I installed the hub holding tool very carfully using a floor jack under the handle so the hub would not move from it's clocked position. I then proceeded to install the 4x25x 1/8 inch thick piece of metal I had fashioned to the passenger side frame rail that sits to the side right under the crank bolt area. A piece of metal with a half moon cut out at the top to lay the short wrench extension into. I used a quick grip clamp to hold the 1/8 inch thick metal to the rail.
So with the crank holder tool being stopped up loosely by the floor jack under the handle. And the extension brace in place. I put my 18mm socket that I lined with electrical tape on the inside(as to not strip the bolt head) of it onto the crank bolt.
I torqued the bolt down to the recommended value double check my work with an digital torque wrench and it was good. Everything was dry in the area and the bolt in my opinion is secure.
I then went to torque angle it by marking the top of the bolt and rotating it to where the marking was at the bottom 180 degree's.
Now back on the top end of the timing chain. I proceeded to install the gears finger tight. running all the slack of the chain to the tensioner side. At that point with both camshaft gears in place(finger tight); I installed the upper plastic guide.
I then installed the test tensioner measuring it at 65 or 66mm was what I was working with for today <68mm.
I installed the test tensioner at that point I had a friend hold a 27mm spanner wrench pinning the intake camshaft to the camlock by pulling it toward them and holding it. I then tightened the intake camshaft bolt at 15 foot pounds. With them still holding the intake camshaft; I then torqued the exhaust camshaft to 15 pounds.
I used a new camlock kit that looks good it did not come with a test tensioner I figure you really don't need one when you can use a tensioner itself really to lightly set the chain guide into position to tense the chain up anyway.
I used a test tensioner for it anyway. by the book. I torque angled the gears at 180 degree's on the intake and a little heavy on the exhaust at 100 degree's.
At this point if anyone wants to let me know what to do next I am open to hear it(I do have another set of cam fresh cam bolts). aside of that I am ready to roll the engine over tomorrow and reference check the camshafts with the camlocks.
but I do know that right now the flywheel pin is still in it. The cam lock have been taken off it. I used a digital angle meter to check angle of camshafts. I have 89.5 degrees on the intake and I have 89.5 degrees on the exhaust which from what I know is good to go.
One strange thing about my new camlock set is like all of them there is a little bit of play in the intake camlock side; for which is why one uses a spanner wrench to pull toward them as it's being torque, but the exhaust side also has a little bit of play if one uses a spanner wrench on the exhaust to push forward a bit.
When I had the cam lock on the exhaust camshaft, I just really let the exhaust cam rest in it's natural position with the label toward the outside, even though the label could be pushed to the inside and held.
I did not use the spanner on the exhaust cam at all during the torque phase of the gear bolt. but it was held on the intake camshaft the whole time. for the intake tightening and exhaust tightening.
all mating surfaces were also cleaned with brake cleaner with particular detail to the intake vanos. the exhaust camshaft bolt was lightly oiled on a small part of the thread at the very tip of the bolt. meaning that wiped it with a blue shop towell after.