MINI Cooper Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I haven't started the mini in like 2 weeks...
battery was weak - symptom occurred at this time too.
Then same symptom after I charged the battery to full, both times I experienced the exact same starting issue.

Let me try to explain...

Key fob in or out, if I push the start button, I get to the pre-start stuff...
Also note - no codes (used BT obd2 - phone app blue driver)
I see the initial engine light (means the computer is registering)
I crank it over, I can see the rpms move (I believe that means signal to the crank sensor)
but... as it turns over, its like it will never start, the rpm barely make it above 200rpms (should double check) and its not actually firing (no exhaust fumes from what i can tell).
The feeling is like the car is being blocked by anti-theft system. Either no spark or no fuel type scenario but no misfire popping sound or smoke.
I watch a video of something similar which lead to the relay out in panel by the engine and I swapped relays with another matching one and it didnt solve it like the guys issue in the video lol.
I wonder if its no fuel? The coil pack are newish and the more expensive ones (spark plugs could use a change) but still its like zero spark or zero fuel, I tapped the fuel pedal no difference (no rev like feeling of spudder / crappy gas situation). I dont have all the tools to test fuel pressure or spark for that matter.. Wondering if I can pour some fuel in the spark plug holes like we do with small engines?? To test out no fuel scenario? I opened the oil cap and actually did see some 'mild' engine smoke (heat smoke), normal after a warm engine. Maybe that will mean its firing with spark and fuel but somehow being retarded? The battery is registered to the car (via blue driver app) but I did remove it completely to charge it (but this situation happened before removal). I also remove the FCM (foot module) before doing so.. Because I learned a dead battery can make that unit 'stick' and $75-100 later it can be repaired lol so I also unplug it before messing with the battery...

Okay I rambled a bit, anyone experience similar?
Oh I checked many of the 'engine looking' fuses based on their pictures, none were fried.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,605 Posts
without a diagnostics run and see if have a fault code stored for CAS unit that the bmw/mini antitheft system common for them to fail i know one place that repairs them but are in the uk BBA REMEN , might find a try to dealership they can retrain the system as they can loose the rolling codes when does , shuts down fuel and spark, pull a pug out leave in on coil pack and crank engine over look for spark, as for fuel pressure can loosen the high pressure pipe from high pressure pump see if have pressure,
also common is timing chain failure, also high pressure fuel pump failures common, without live data and diagnostics runs you have next to zero chance of working it out ,, that said even a blind finds a bone sometimes lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree, thanks... guess I'll start with visual spark first. Then fuel pressure check. Does a failed timing chain sound like the car is retarding? Like a really bad clunking half running motor with zero response to gas pedal being applied? It literally didnt change how it chugged, steering was locked btw like the motor was still off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay new day... so definitely feels like the starter is turning the motor and thats all. I checked all fuses to confirm all is good there.. There's a relay in the fuse box in the motor bay, the tech (in video) showed which to jump to listen for the high fuel pressure... it did make noise, like it cycled, not sure that help with my diagnosis here? Wont have time to pull a plug yet. I found it really odd that in fuse box there are 4 relays up the center. first 2 were HFP and computer (noted from vid) the like a fan and i forget the other one.. but my mini was missing the 2nd one (the computer relay) thought that was odd. Anyhow definitely is not really starting no rpms, no codes, but gets into this weird like motor is turning but no spark/fuel situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,605 Posts
I agree, thanks... guess I'll start with visual spark first. Then fuel pressure check. Does a failed timing chain sound like the car is retarding? Like a really bad clunking half running motor with zero response to gas pedal being applied? It literally didnt change how it chugged, steering was locked btw like the motor was still off.
snapped timing chain do a compression test on it or remove the rocker cover see where the camshaft writing is at when all 4 pistons at same height, also diagnostics should show plausibility codes from the cam sensors and crank position sensor,, compression test is best way forward
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update - Took off the valve cover, timing chain is nice and tight with no broken plastic glides. So that's not it. I have to do a spark test still and see what the schrader fuel valve does. But internally, motor is in tac.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,605 Posts
Update - Took off the valve cover, timing chain is nice and tight with no broken plastic glides. So that's not it. I have to do a spark test still and see what the schrader fuel valve does. But internally, motor is in tac.
just because the timing chain is tight does not mean its ok, all that means is has not stretched past the tensioner travel yet , and on R60 its has the later longer tensioner so on a mileage based way forward they need new chain it around 60,000 miles they will run with stretch chain for further 20k or more but will bhe retarded and will hurt things the longer it driven like it,
need to lock the cams and crank see what free play between the exhaust cam and crank sprockets,, also have a look at the tensioner and see how much travel is out of it body more than 14mm its totally gone at 10mm its need to change chain kit,
could also run live data on engine see what the vanos positions are and timing etc, also look for misfires if just one cylinder then start with that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dang didnt realize that. I did try to see how much the cams would wiggle, there was no play on them. But I have had a few misfires months ago, none since then or any leading up to this situation. I changed the coils last yr plus bottom o2 sensor recently and that all seemed to go away. I think its the high pressure fuel pump. I'm going to rent a tool today and see what results come from that first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,605 Posts
Dang didnt realize that. I did try to see how much the cams would wiggle, there was no play on them. But I have had a few misfires months ago, none since then or any leading up to this situation. I changed the coils last yr plus bottom o2 sensor recently and that all seemed to go away. I think its the high pressure fuel pump. I'm going to rent a tool today and see what results come from that first.
tell tail fuel pump faulty is when first start for the day it should with foot of gas pedal press button once then start and fast idle around 1000 revs for a minute or two then drop to 750/800 revs , if keep needing to restart until it catches its signs of seals in high pressure fuel pump, also after a few goes like that it should throw a P2880 fault code,
another common trick they all do after 6years maybe and 60-100k is melt the exhaust valve stems seals and allow burn oil to build up on the exhaust valve seats and pit the valves,, way to tell misfires are from this is rocker cover off exhaust manifold off watch the valves for each cylinder so all 4 closed , then add leak off air line to that cylinder and spray wd40 or seafoam on rear of valves in to ports and look for bubbles if have any as most do its head off and refresh time, if do need to pull head go all the way and pull pistons and get rid of the silly factory flexi oil rings as they are rubbish fit solid 3 piece kit instead sorts them out a treat,,, they all go the same way after 10 years for sure but some sooner
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, so with limited tools... borescope comes Saturday... but right now, 12v (check the test points, jbe, relay, fuse, main pin, green wire of leg 3, and pressured fuel after hpfp are presented. No compression test done tho. Visual spark not confirmed. Borescope should help see if the values are the issue. I have the old set of coil packs... might throw them on and rule out bad coils.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Spark is at each coil. So going to add dry gas to the tank, maybe its just bad gas. That, or the worst situation right, carbon keeping valves open...
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top