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Discussion Starter #1
I have recently purchased a 2008 r52 S. I Love this car! I am a carpenter by trade and never afraid to work on my vehicles. I am much more confident having this group to learn from so thanks for all the posts, Love the group. Now..to the point.
The car was suffering from a couple issues when I purchased it. Replaced the Struts and links as I had a bad strut bearing. It had a coolant leak so I started with the thermostat housing, but after further inspection, it was water pump related. Not sure what was leaking, so I replaced everything, I think it was the flange gasket. While I had everything apart, I serviced the Supercharger. It had plenty of oil in both sides, but it was dark and thicker then the new stuff. I heard about timing chain tensioners being an issue so I figured I would be proactive on that. There was no issue before hand, but once i started the car, there was a rattle. I figure it took a minute for the tensioner to open, so I let it run. Rattle went away. Started it the next day and the rattle was back...So now it sits. I ordered a new Timing chain kit and was thinking I would start by swapping out the tensioner. If it fixes the rattle, can I trust that it is fixed? I know Gen 1 doesn't usually have issue with the timing chain. I'm only at 60K miles. Should I just replace the whole thing?
 

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would only ever fit genuine timing chain tensioner on gen 1 cars had so many after market ones go faulty or just not open up on first start up, also always change oil and filter before starting it again after fitting as they need oil pressure to open up silly design i think ie they arrive all sucked in and for the first start up the chains is all slack until oil forces them out, devils advocate would make me suspect lol oil pressure ie need to rule this out for piece of mind,
 

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you're not supposed to install them compressed and use start up to slap them into extending, that is asking to smash ageing brittle guides or worse, you're actually supposed to manually extend them by operating them from above with the cover off. Forget that many people do it the start up way, it's best to know how you should rather than how some 'do', at least then you're making a conscious decision to do it an incorrect way.

what you will likely be able to do is actually fit it already extended, you will have to press into it a little as you start to turn the nut but if your finger strength is decent you'll succeed, I fit them all this way. Torque the nut to 63nm.

if it keeps rattling it isn't necessarily the chain that is an issue, but possibly the oil needs changing or flushing, not always but it is a factor, it could also be the wrong oil not just old, and even low oil pressure. It happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did do an oil change with the tensioner swap, Pentosin High Performance 5W 30. Oil level is good. I pulled the tensioner out and it is extended. Rattle sounded like the chain hitting the valve cover, top left. So it is reasonable to think the tensioner may have broke one on the guides? I also have the p1242 code. Sorry to have left that out of this thread. Could that have something to do with it? I am nervous to run the motor to find the vacuum leak. I have never seen a timing chain fail and I sure don't want to. Thanks
 

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i've had plenty of them that wont pop out no matter what you you do to them total stupid design, best way to pop them out is high pressure airline blower tool and some thin oil in the inlet hole at the bottom, trouble most people dont have that hanging around. this all said a new tensioner on a 100k engine is lipstick on a pig, its going to be worn out new chain sprockets and tensioner no brainer really, mini could of put a secondary spring between the tension plastic holder and screw in nut that on new chains etc would still put force on the tensioner in the beginning
also buy only ever starting the car on idle no throttle only puts tension on one side of timing chain and sprockets this force is what keeps it from jumping teeth also on the bottom of front plate ie oil pump there is a alloy lip prevents teeth jumping,,, only a proper idiot would rev that engine on and off before allowing for oil to build up and stop any noise,, ie on safe side let sit and idle until up to running temp... its the back lash it causes when blipping the throttle or any revs on and off, personally been doing them like this for many years not had one yet that went south except like said before after market tensioner are crap
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I replaced the tensioner with OEM and rattle didn't go away. Frustrated, I pulled out the PCV valve to see if I could stick my camera into the hole to see what was happening. Unscrewed the valve, and the rattle stopped. Is a rattling PCV valve a symptom of something other then a bad PCV Valve? Guess I heard the phrase "Death Rattle" one to many times. Got my anxiety up!LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Car is also giving the p1237 code. Was giving the 1242 before checking for vacuum leaks. put it back together and now 1237
 
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