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Any ideas?

My mini R57 convertible has damp back seats after rain, any ideas?? Don't think it is the roof?
 

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Had the car looked at and they say the roof trims are broken and they have replaced the 'side bow lower trims' which also require a repair kit ref 073351.

Still not sure which part they have replaced and why this was letting the water in. The rear seats were wet in each corner.
 

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I am having a problem with the convirtable roof in my car, the two plastic strips that connect the roof to the rear 1/4 of the car seem to be disintegrating so the roof no longer pulls tight in that area. Have you any idea if that might be the same problem you had?

Many Regards Samantha
 

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B Mini Cooper Convertible
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I have exactly the same issue.
Can you please give me any more info about a repair kit ref 073351 (what is this?)
Regards
B


I now know what the issue is:

Recently the back seat area started filling up with rain water.

I've looked online and the issue is the Soft Top Cover has Separated From Body at C-Pillar.
The Defect Code is 54 31 02 6900 and requires R57 Soft Top Support Reinforcement Kit 54347276922

I'm now checking to see if my 2009 Mini is covered by any BMW / Mini defect warranty or how much will this cost to repair?


Convertible Top Canvas: Customer Interest
Body - Soft Top Cover Separated From Body at C-Pillar
SI M 54 02 09

September 2010
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI M54 02 09 dated June 2010.

Details at
workshop-manuals.com/mini/cooper_jcw_convertible_(r57)/l4-1.6l_turbo_(n14)/body_and_frame/roof_and_associated_components/convertible_top/convertible_top_canvas/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/customer_interest_for_convertible_top_canvas/m540209/sep/10/body_soft_top_cover_separated_from_body_at_c-pillar/page_1704/
 

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R57 Virgin
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I just bought a used 09 MCS Convertible with 58,000km on the clock and the rear seats get damp when it rains.
After doing some research here and looking at the car - it's clear that the previous owners never had the fabric repair kit installed.

It took me 45-50 mins to complete. By far the hardest part was getting the circlip back on the stud. No room, almost blind and if you drop it, you're hosed.

I bought the kit on eBay ( PN 54347276922 ) for about 35 Euros ( Prentice Portadown BMW, UK ).

The write up for the fix at workshop_manuals.com was decent, yet cumbersome, as it's spread across several pages with no "save as" or "print" capability. I extracted the procedure and created a simple PDF file to view it more easily, especially if you're using your phone / iPad for reference while working on the car.

For tools, you just need a handheld rivet gun, 4mm drill bit, needle nose pliers and a screw driver that uses the different bits.

* The rivet gun was 16 Euros at Castorama ( french Home Depot )
* The 4mm drill bit was 2.50 Euro and has one hexagonal end that inserts into a regular screw driver that has the various bits ( flat, philips, tort etc )
* Small needle nose pliers I had
* Screw driver kit I had

After reading the procedure 5 times, here's what I did.

* Open the top about half way. It's unlocked and the horizontal roof side supports are now pointing upwards.
* Open trunk (boot) and unlock the levers on the side so you can open up the rear of the top
* This loosens up the top so you can get access to the stud which is a pivot point
* You can clearly see the original plastic has broken off so it's easy to pull this part of the roof up and out.
* Once you have out, remove the circlip with the pliers, be careful not to drop it inside the body.
* Pull the material and old plastic up and invert. You'll be able to see the plastic from the underside of the top, sewn in to the fabric.
* Cut away most of the plastic that used to be the attachment point that went around the stud
* Align the correct replacement plastic reinforcement piece and then remove the double backed tape cover and stick to the original plastic piece
* Take the 4mm bit, insert into the screw driver and use to create 4 holes for the supplied rivets
* You use 2 of the original holes in the new plastic piece and create 2 new ones closer to the center where it will pivot. No need for a power tool. Takes 30 seconds a hole
* Double check alignment, and then rivet each hole making sure to have the washer on the plastic side.
* Once all 8 rivets are done, invert the newly attached plastic and slide back into the body
* Now for the tricky part, you have to get the plastic piece over the stud and the circlip back onto the stud
* I ended up doing this from the inside, back seats down, one hand pushing the plastic piece over the stud, the other hand pushing the circlip on
* The circlip makes a positive "click" when inserted. It's made in such a way that it will slide over the end of the stud with very little play.
* Once the circlip is on, I ruffled the material a bit from the outside, put the trunk levers back down and closed the roof all the way.
* The sides of the roof are now completely sealed against the rubber weather stripping. I had a 2-3cm gap before.

If anyone needs the PDF or a rivet gun, let me know.
 

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* Cut away most of the plastic that used to be the attachment point that went around the stud

This line could be confusing for some who are a bit more enthusiastic and go cutting out all the plastic (and fabric 8-0 ) before realising most of it has to be left insitu. If they end up cutting out the whole plastic before reading on, they are in trouble. 'Cut out 1.5cm of the old plastic/metal around the central locating hole' might be more accurate. Enough so that you can get the stud clip back on without snagging.

I know, there are photos, but photos on this site tend to disappear after time and all you are left with is a description.

When I did this, I used alternative instructions that told me to cut the stitching and plastic welds and remove the old plastic completely leaving the fabric intact (BMW Service bulletin), then rivet the new part to the canvas using the old stitching marks as locators for edges. Worked perfectly. The rivet heads must be on the outer side so that the compressed part of the rivet is facing into the void. Washer on the backside of fabric.
 

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R57 Virgin
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Scudder, good point. Cutting too much plastic would be a problem.

I read the alternative instructions also from BWM and decided not to go this route.
Adding in an extra layer of plastic thats 1.5mm to 2mm thick to the original sewn in layer helps push the fabric out further against the rubber body seal when reassembled. It's a bit of a goofy design anyway; having a tighter seal in this area is probably better, especially if your rubber seals are 9 years old like mine, and are not perfect to begin with.
 

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My outcome from dropping it was to undo the clips of the wheel liner and it dropped out, the area it falls into drains water from the roof into the front of the wheel area. Try this first.
 

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Does anyone know the part number for the locking circlip? I accidentally dropped the circlip into the body.
THis is a close as I could find, looks very like the part, might not fit though
 

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Have not posted before but wanted to add a quick comment to try and help. Have a "59" reg Cooper convertible (R57). Noticed it was damp inside, lots of condensation, windows steamed up, etc. Having searched this web site I found an entry about wet back seats, I went and checked the Mini and sure enough I had 2 x small swimming pools in the back under the back seat. I kept searching for an answer and found this thread. I checked the Mini and sure enough the two panels behind the back windows were flapping around and the car was leaking like a sieve. I bought the repair kit on Ebay, all as per this thread. I meant to do the repair myself but didn't find time so got hold of BMW/Mini and got a quote/price from them to do the repair which was fixed at £100 plus VAT. They have it in their system at 40-50 mins labour. They did it while I waited, took about 2 hours in the end but price was fixed. Car is now fine and dry!! Thanks for the entries, information. I hope this helps others.
 
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