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Discussion Starter #1
I have just bought a 2006 JCW and without changing too much or spending too much money am obviously interested in the little tweaks or inexpensive things to do/buy.

I’ve just ordered an ITG filter and will fit that and disconnect the air-flap at the weekend.

Are there any other worthwhile mods/tweaks that I can do?

I will be running it on Shell V-Power 99ron petrol so it will hopefully keep it nice and clean inside and add a few bhp.

What’s the next thing to do?

Thanks, Mark.
 

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Hi Mark,

I would reccomend getting a uprated intercooler such as a grs, alta. I would say the stock intercooler is the best thing to upgrade, I did it and it definately makes a difference in keep IAT temps down.
 

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depends, do you want power, styling or something else?

Strut braces are a good mod, that tighten it up nicely, have a look at GTT for those;)
 

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THE STICK
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If its power then a GP intercooler (for retaiing the stock look), a GRS IC for simple bolt on option if stock looks are not worried about. The GTT is awesome on the road and track, but is more fiddly to have fitted ... although not that much... Just more than the GRS.

Personally I'd also think about an oversized GTT crank pulley (don't bother with the Alta crank IMO), although I'm sure there are people here who will poo poo the crank idea... but don't be fooled as there are lots of folks running crank puleys and I have only heard of a couple of instances of oil pump failures (and some of those were on cars with no crank pulley!, so despite what folks say i'm not sold that the pulleys are the problem, but rather crap BMW tollerence checks)... However I'd only do this once the IC is uprated.

Next I'd consider a cam (1320 or shrick) either copupled with a set of 400-450cc injectors and RMW tune from 1320, or a set of big injectors and a variable fuel pressure regulator from GTT/Thinkmini

Handling wise i'd go for TD Prorace 1.2s in at least ET38 with good tyres from thinkmini, better brakes!, and GTT strutbraces. Also consider JCW susp or other coilovers such as 1320/RMW cross's or Spax (i have these and think they are great for the money) or GTT Biltsien PS9s for a more track orientated feel
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, but as per my first post was just looking at little “tweaks or inexpensive things to do”…… such as the air-filter and air-box valve thing.

It doesn’t have to actually be buying something, e.g. like the air-box valve.

(The car is truthfully great as it is, I spent ages looking for the right colour/spec/wheels/brakes etc and I want to keep it as standard looking as possible therefore suspension and bigger intercoolers etc are out of the question
 

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Turbo Schmurbo...
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Ok for the JCW intake, rip out all of the flap gubbins and (as you already have) stick in the ITG. Let me know what improvement if any you feel as I did all that before I fitted mine :) .

If you want the stock look Intercooler wise go for a GP, I got mine off ebay for £200 ish then a air diverter (the under scoop part) from the stealer's for £46-56. I think someone sells all you need brand new for £300 on ebay to be honest. My engine bay is pictured and looks very original.

After that if you want to change your front wishbone bushes (about £230 ish fitted) to uprated ones (the stock ones are prone to failure after 30k, mine were split) it should tighten up the handling nicely without sacrificing the ride any more (like different shocks or springs might).

I have a similar mind set to you and wanted it to look original on the outside and on the inside so it still has the original wheels and from looking at it, it just looks like a stock works :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, that’s the kind of advice I’m looking for.

There is a JCW strut-brace available, will find out how much it is.

Have read a few threads about the GP intercooler, wouldn’t mind fitting one of these as it would keep it looking OEM. Is it an exact swap or do you need any new fixings or those rubber hoses either sides etc?

(I haven’t fitted the ITG filter or removed the valve thing yet, will be doing so at the weekend – will let you know if it makes any difference)

Any other ideas?
 

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Turbo Schmurbo...
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The JCW strut brace isn't much cop and is £150 to boot!! I may get one for looks if I ever have the spare cash to spend on shiny things ;)

In regards to the GP intercooler you need everything on here.

Then part number 51134404668 and all the nuts and bolts required on this list. If you have a friendly dealer this will be much easier as some are picky. You may need a chassis number of a GP (last 6 digits off the VIN) to buy one though. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
£150 is a lot for a strut-brace, are there any pictures of it around?

Looks a lot of hassle changing the intercooler over, how come you need to change the underside of the bonnet as well?
 

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Turbo Schmurbo...
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£150 is a lot for a strut-brace, are there any pictures of it around?

Looks a lot of hassle changing the intercooler over, how come you need to change the underside of the bonnet as well?
Took me 15 mins to do the intercooler and 15 mins the air diverter (if you dont get the underbonnet diverter you wont get the full benefit, and it rubs). I'm not mechanical (I'm a programmer/code monkey) :D
 

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I can't comment on the JCW strut brace but the GTT one is superb, increasing power is all well and good but without control it is pointless.

I did handling and brakes before any power mods.
 

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Turbo Schmurbo...
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I can't comment on the JCW strut brace but the GTT one is superb, increasing power is all well and good but without control it is pointless.

I did handling and brakes before any power mods.
But the JCW engine kit can be fitted without any changes to the cars chassis, suspension or brakes ;) . I wouldn't say its pointless unless you drive like a loon. If you need to be coddled by chassis safety improvements because your overstepping the mark/limit then it doesn't say much about your driving. All they do is move the limit of the cars capability to a faster point, which unless you have dealt with the underlying cause (driver skill) all that will happen is that you'll be going faster when you do find that limit.

Just drive within what the components are capable of e.g. If you haven't got 4 pots give yourself more room/time to brake. :rolleyes:

Strut braces tighten up the chassis and may reduce body roll. I wouldn't say thats the best way to spend money to harness power initially, more of a way to bring your lap times down. Especially when they are over £250 for the upper brace, a good mod in the long run I just wouldn't do it first.

To harness power your best initially looking at:

  • Performance tyres (non runflats!):
    Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 for all round / Yoko Parada Spec 2 for best dry. Huge improvement in grip, I can drive almost as fast in the wet as I could in the dry when running runflats!
  • Poly (Powerflex/Superflex) front wishbone suspension bushes:
    Reduces any play in the bushes that will be transferred to the wheels (which will cause more torque steer). Tightens the handling, steering and makes the car much more "pointy" as you can place it perfectly into a corner much more than before.
  • Better pads and fluid:
    I use mintex 1144 and DOT 5.1 on grooved/slotted discs, big improvement over stock for such a small price. If you can afford it a 4 pot kit is nice, other wise a JCW kit might suffice but even that is very pricey.
I have all of the above and my car is very enjoyable to drive as it is, I would like some nicer brakes so I can brake that bit later though ;) .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks.

Will have a think about the strut-brace.

Intercooler will probably be a no, as mentioned a couple of times now was just looking for those recommended little tweaks.

The tyres look almost new so I won’t be changing them just for the fun of it. Have used F1’s loads in the past and agree they are IMO the best all-round tyre.

Again the bushes, good tip, but the car has only done 16k and drives like new.

The discs and pads were all changed a couple of months ago so again are like new, when/if they wear out might think about upgrading. They are the JCW kit so actually feel pretty good as they are.
 

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Turbo Schmurbo...
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Definetly not worth forking out on things that have plenty of life left in them, I waited patiently until I needed new tyres to ditch runflats.

It's common to the bushes to show problems around the 30k mark depending on how hard its been cornered so best to check them around that time. Both my fronts were split at 33k.

If you have the JCW brake kit then I wouldn't worry unless your tracking the car frequently, they will be perfectly good for the road. Next time you need new pads or a fluid change have a shop around. Like I say, I noticed a very big improvement from fitting better pads and dot5.1 fluid.

Not really much you can fiddle with if you don't want to part with any cash tbh ;)
 
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