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Hi guys,

Partner recently bought her first car in the form of a '55 plate Mini Cooper (I think? Unsure of the difference between the Cooper and the One) Hatchback. It's had some issues and this forum has been a wealth of knowledge and allowed me to fix the gear stick not centering by replacing the gear linkage and fix a revered polarity window which squeaked like the devil. So thank you all so much!

Unfortunately, since resolving these issues the remote central locking has stopped working and I cannot for the life of me work out why despite trawling several threads here and on other forums. I wonder if anyone can offer anything I may be missing before I go mad.

So on the same day that I replaced the window regulator, I also replaced the gear linkage. I point this out because the remote locking worked before I did anything, and did not work after I had rummaged in the drivers door to do the regulator and moved the battery box to access the gear links.

Things I know/have checked:
  • All fuses are intact under the bonnet and in the passenger footwell
  • The key can still unlock the car by putting it in the drivers side door, this unlocks both passenger and driver doors
  • The doors still automatically lock when going over 12mph and the button to lock them within the car works
  • The key battery was changed despite being the ignition charging type and showing the correct voltage, to be safe. This was then checked with an RF fob tester which lights up when buttons are pushed
  • I have tried both the sequences to resync the key multiple times to no avail
I have looked in the local scrap yard for a replacement receiver board (located inside the auto dimming mirror on her model). However I could only find cars with the separate receiver unit in the headliner and one with a manual dimming mirror which had a slightly different board. The connector was the same, so I tried this one on the chance that the board was just a different layout to accommodate the manual adjuster, however the remote (un)locking still did not function after attempting the reset procedure, so I have reinstalled her original receiver.

The only things of note that I can think of were that I was not aware the ECU was attached to the battery box when working on the car so had it flipped out of the way and this may have put strain on the connectors, however all the wires going to the ECU look to be in firmly and without breaks. The battery did spark when reconnected, however no fuses were blown. I have since disconnected an reconnected the battery again to see if this would resolve the issue but it did not.

I have seen that potentially the body control unit can get wet and corrode which could cause electrical issues however it seems like it would be massively coincidental that it stopped working for this reason on the same day I was tinkering.

Her receiver board does not look corroded, I did notice that there looks to be a slightly brown tinge on one of the chips and wondered if it perhaps burnt out when the battery reconnected. But I have no idea how likely this is, is there anyway to test the receiver board? I've attached a photo, it's the chip with the "G D" printed on it, the bands at the top and bottom have some colouring and appear to be completely silver on other photos I've seen. I realise this is a reach, but I'm running out of ideas. Could it be as simple as needing to find an identical board (not manual dimming version)?

Any input would be gratefully received, and if I can give any more information or check anything else I'd be happy to do so.

Cheers!

Josh

Passive circuit component Green Circuit component Hardware programmer Finger
 
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