My understanding was that all the wheels had a similar outside diameter when fit with the factory tires.
5.5" x 15" 175/65 R15"
6.5" x 16" 195/55 R16"
7.0" x 17" 205/45 R17"
The only difference being the sidewall height, stiffness and tread width. So the gearing ratios and speedometer would be intact when a customer simply ordered a larger rim as an option.
People on the forum have mentioned ET or offset. Is this a function of the rim or the car. I expect it has something to do with where the wheel is centered under the car.
I have pre-ordered a Cooper S, and certainly want the 17" runflats. Does anyone know if these are fitted with all season or summer tires?
I also require winter tires. So how do I do this? Ideally I'd buy the 15" steel rims for winter use, and run the thinner non-runflat tires, but the Cooper S cannot carry a spare, it's used for the battery box. So is there a runflat winter tire manufactured in any of the above sizes?
Does a runflat require a different rim? I think it does. Secondly, does a runflat rim come in cheap steel, or are they all alloy rims.
I could always get a compressor and a can of sealant like the MINI MS. Then choose regular winter tires, but this makes me feel uneasy. I've only had two blow-outs in my life, but neither could have been mended with a can of goo.
Would the MINI MS pump and goo kit suffice legally in the US? I'm pretty sure it's not legal in Canada. All of the North American MINI Spec's call for a 15" with a compact space-saver spare, or 16"/17" with runflats.
Ultimatly, well-maintained, all-season runflats is looking like my only option here, but I don't like it. Canada is not the arctic, but I do visit my cottage and drive through snow-belts often. Snow chains, cables or studs are not legal in Ontario.
One other point I suppose: Put on a compact spare, or try to run on a deflated runflat in snow and you're as good as stuck anyways. Compact spares are nearly bald at the factory and a runflat buckles in the centre, just runs on the two outer edges. On the front, you just spin the bad wheel, and on the back the car starts to spin over 5 mph or on braking.
5.5" x 15" 175/65 R15"
6.5" x 16" 195/55 R16"
7.0" x 17" 205/45 R17"
The only difference being the sidewall height, stiffness and tread width. So the gearing ratios and speedometer would be intact when a customer simply ordered a larger rim as an option.
People on the forum have mentioned ET or offset. Is this a function of the rim or the car. I expect it has something to do with where the wheel is centered under the car.
I have pre-ordered a Cooper S, and certainly want the 17" runflats. Does anyone know if these are fitted with all season or summer tires?
I also require winter tires. So how do I do this? Ideally I'd buy the 15" steel rims for winter use, and run the thinner non-runflat tires, but the Cooper S cannot carry a spare, it's used for the battery box. So is there a runflat winter tire manufactured in any of the above sizes?
Does a runflat require a different rim? I think it does. Secondly, does a runflat rim come in cheap steel, or are they all alloy rims.
I could always get a compressor and a can of sealant like the MINI MS. Then choose regular winter tires, but this makes me feel uneasy. I've only had two blow-outs in my life, but neither could have been mended with a can of goo.
Would the MINI MS pump and goo kit suffice legally in the US? I'm pretty sure it's not legal in Canada. All of the North American MINI Spec's call for a 15" with a compact space-saver spare, or 16"/17" with runflats.
Ultimatly, well-maintained, all-season runflats is looking like my only option here, but I don't like it. Canada is not the arctic, but I do visit my cottage and drive through snow-belts often. Snow chains, cables or studs are not legal in Ontario.
One other point I suppose: Put on a compact spare, or try to run on a deflated runflat in snow and you're as good as stuck anyways. Compact spares are nearly bald at the factory and a runflat buckles in the centre, just runs on the two outer edges. On the front, you just spin the bad wheel, and on the back the car starts to spin over 5 mph or on braking.