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Joshua Peet
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Just replaced the crankshaft pulley and the mount it sits on - I've read in a few places this can knock the timing out?

Am I in trouble or can I start it?

I'm talking about this little guy at the bottom of the engine.. Apparently you have to lock it in place but I didn't!!!

275508
 

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If you removed the main crankshaft bolt to replace the hub then your timing will 100% require checking. Starting it could result in catastrophic damage to the valves as it is an interference engine and will stirke the pistons. You will need the correct cam shaft allignment tool for your engine and new cam end bolts as they are stretch to fit or torque to yield is the other name.
 

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Joshua Peet
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Discussion Starter #3
Soooo... I may or may not have gotten impatient with it and pressed the go button. Stupid, I know, but everything seems okay... no scary noises and seems to be running fine - would you recommend still having it checked? Is it safe to drive it to the garage?
 

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Entirely your decision, me, I would have the cam cover off/sticks int he cylinders and my cam tool on it! If you have not put the timing out with what you did then I suggest purchasing a lottery ticket this weekend!!!
 

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Joshua Peet
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Discussion Starter #5
I did jam a bolt into the flywheel locking point (I know, cringe) - could that be what has magically saved it or did I need to lock the cams as well?
 

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Joshua Peet
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Discussion Starter #6
Entirely your decision, me, I would have the cam cover off/sticks int he cylinders and my cam tool on it! If you have not put the timing out with what you did then I suggest purchasing a lottery ticket this weekend!!!
Timing chain kit on the way. May as well do it all while I’m in there! Only for 40k ish miles on this engine but seems like a lot of work to check the timing and not replace it... I’m more competent than my misdeeds May let on... I built this MINI, all but the engine. What goes on inside there is still somewhat of a mystery to me!
 

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Timing chain kit on the way. May as well do it all while I’m in there! Only for 40k ish miles on this engine but seems like a lot of work to check the timing and not replace it... I’m more competent than my misdeeds May let on... I built this MINI, all but the engine. What goes on inside there is still somewhat of a mystery to me!
These are the other parts you could need. 2 x cam/VVT bolts which are TTY. New Crankshaft bolt x 1, also TTY, Cranks shaft hub oil seal x 1, Guide bolt seals x 3, lower sprocket x 1; Cam cover seal and a dab of gasket sealant for the corners, angle torque indicator thingy, new ancillary drive belt? Might as well do the water pump while you have access if not already done, it is three bolts.
 

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Joshua Peet
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
These are the other parts you could need. 2 x cam/VVT bolts which are TTY. New Crankshaft bolt x 1, also TTY, Cranks shaft hub oil seal x 1, Guide bolt seals x 3, lower sprocket x 1; Cam cover seal and a dab of gasket sealant for the corners, angle torque indicator thingy, new ancillary drive belt? Might as well do the water pump while you have access if not already done, it is three bolts.
you should now go buy a lottery ticket luck is on your side buddy,
Cheers lads! Put put her back together today and left it idling for about 10 mins.. Smooth as anything.

That is until the water friction wheel connected, added extra weight to the crankshaft pulley and loosened it.

Looks like my luck was spent on the first start up, eh?

Anyway, had the take the inner fender carpet thingy off again and the crankbolt was VERY loose.

Guess one way or another the timing was gonna go - fate and all that.

No scary noise or anything when it died.. seemed to go peacfully.

It's turning over at the minute but not firing - I'm lost for ideas.

Will the timing being out cause it to not fire? Like I've said before, around the engine I'm alright but inside it I'm clueless...

Am I right in thinking the crankbolt is torque to yeild?

On a scale of 1 to I just ruined a brand new engine and wasted several hours of my life, where abouts am I?

I've attached a youtube vid so you can hear it:

I've got one of the few old MINIs with a SatNav so I can see all of my error messages... Nothing but my good old german-built EVL on there.... :(

If you've got any ideas other than setting fire to the damn thing, I'd love to hear them!
 

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ho not so good, can you explain how you tightened up the cam sprockets and crankshaft sprocket bolts, also new or used bolts etc,from this i can tell you with out any doubt if really bad or not,
 

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Joshua Peet
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
ho not so good, can you explain how you tightened up the cam sprockets and crankshaft sprocket bolts, also new or used bolts etc,from this i can tell you with out any doubt if really bad or not,
Hi Mike,
Sorryfor the slow reply it’s been a little hectic around here.
Took the cover off today and checked the timing - pretty badly out.
The only thing I touched was the crank bolt - tightened to the specified 50nm but missed the part where it said and then turn it another 180deg!!!
Retiming the engine tomorrow and I’m going to see how things go.
Mini was pretty quiet when it died so I’m hoping the valves got out of the way before they got smashed up - slim chance but who knows.
 

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Retighten your new crank bolt as specified and get new cam bolts while you are at it as they are all tty, then reset timing as before 3 times. Then without starting it do a compression test on all cylinders. To tighten the crank bolt you would be well advised to get a crank holding tool or fashion one yourself, some rely on the flywheel pin to hold it but that may be false economy if it is a cheap job.
 

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Joshua Peet
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Discussion Starter #14
If the compression. Is good you just won the lottery
No win here I'm afriad. I'm pretty sure I've got a bent vavle (or 16). It starts now though! Looks like it's coming apart again - wish I had a way to test it before I put it all back together. I've attached a YouTube video of what is going on:
 

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Joshua Peet
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Discussion Starter #16
Oh! That is a head job then if comp is down. Valves and seals. What a pisser! I wont say more coz you will already be smacking yourself round the head
Yep! Absolutely gutted. One bloody bolt and a simple instruction I didn’t follow properly. The car has 140k on it but I loved the spec so put a new engine in it about a month ago - now this has happened haha. I knew it didn’t make financial sense but you’ve never seen spec like it - plus it’s the only cooper I could find with xenons (too young to get insured on an S). Still 2k a year tho! Head off it is. I’m going to get it running again and the get rid of it. Somebody is going to get themselves a bloody good car that I’ve spent many an hour crying over and bleeding on to 😂
 

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ok sorry i feel i must say this just to protect others from this out come,, you cannot just undo any of the bolts on cams or crankshaft without re-timing or locking the engine off as i have always thought and told others etc, did give your adventure the benefit of the doubt has have never try'd that approach before as did think it would not end well, as the spring on the tensioner would move the timing out it only takes 1 tooth on bottom sprocket and valves hit pistons,
so you are where you are with it, i would fist off set the timing correctly with lock kit and old bolts done up tight enough to do a compression test on it see what you have you might be lucky and not bent anything worth a punt, then after that head gasket £40 head bolts £21 inlet valves are £7 and exhaust £8, will need valve spring compression tool torque wrench and dont forget to replace the valve stem seals while you are in there. or find a breaker engine form a Peugeot 207 gti same engine or the gt 150 engines depending on year.
 

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Joshua Peet
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28 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
ok sorry i feel i must say this just to protect others from this out come,, you cannot just undo any of the bolts on cams or crankshaft without re-timing or locking the engine off as i have always thought and told others etc, did give your adventure the benefit of the doubt has have never try'd that approach before as did think it would not end well, as the spring on the tensioner would move the timing out it only takes 1 tooth on bottom sprocket and valves hit pistons,
so you are where you are with it, i would fist off set the timing correctly with lock kit and old bolts done up tight enough to do a compression test on it see what you have you might be lucky and not bent anything worth a punt, then after that head gasket £40 head bolts £21 inlet valves are £7 and exhaust £8, will need valve spring compression tool torque wrench and dont forget to replace the valve stem seals while you are in there. or find a breaker engine form a Peugeot 207 gti same engine or the gt 150 engines depending on year.
Mike, I’ve been so grateful for your help. You’ve educated me and people that will read this forum in the future. For all of those reading in the future, please see all threads in my name which have followed this journey. Triple check everything and if in doubt, buy a new one. Luckily for me, I’m not as clueless as my mistakes and impatience make out. I’m removing the head and giving it to my uncle to reseat some new valves. I’ve learnt my limits of capability! For all future readers, just remember this was entirely avoidable. Read things twice before you act on them and if possible take it to a mechanic - it may well be cheaper than fucking it up yourself. I’ll update you everyone on the car’s progress since the valve replacement when the time comes and afterwards will close the thread.
 

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lifes one big lesson from start to finish i believe i learn new stuff most days, i some times might make things sound really easy and forget to add some details when writing it on here or take for granted some things just go without saying, accidentally done that to one guy when he was totally stripping and rebuilding his daughters car,, ie in my book you always mark all pistons and conrods and end caps matched to each rod etc, even valves should number them etc, he put it all back together all mismatched up ie when re-ring a engine should put correct piston and rod is same cylinder,, as everything wears differently in theory, i forget i have been doing it most of my life and just second nature,
when you come to putting your car back together make sure you do the timing chain kit at same time, and fully understand how to time them back up again need any advice just drop me a line, best to stop and ask before it turns to pain again
 
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