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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: Brake cleaner did the job. Orange seal is cracked and needs to be replaced. Sigh.

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I had my turbocharger replaced in December. I have a small recurring problem that is more annoying than serious (although it has the potential to be serious if the inlet pipe slips off the turbo).

When the turbo was replaced, they also replaced the orange seal and self-adjusting clip along with all the piping between the MAF sensor and the turbo. I guess since the crankcase vents into that section of the pipe there is always a little engine oil in the piping between the MAF and the turbo inlet. The new clamp is a jubilee clamp, but since the part of the turbo that mates with the piping has some oil on it, the pipe tends to slowly slip off. This manifests as a loss of engine power (owing to the ingress of unmetered air entering after the MAF). I keep checking every week or so to make sure the piping is not almost falling off. I'm getting a little tired of this routine. I've slowly come to realize that the oil contamination on the seal and turbo is probably the cause of the slippage.

So, on to my questions...

Any advice on how to clean the engine oil off the components safely so that I don't damage the little orange seal or mess anything up? I guess I need something to degrease the engine oil from the components.

My other question would be, I think it's normal to have some oil in the piping owing to the crankcase ventilation - I'm guessing it's blow-by oil (the car is a Clubman D with the PSA diesel engine).
 

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should there be an orange seal on Cooper S versions as well??
 

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below link new collar must be decreased before fitting brake cleaner the turbo surface and rubber part and dont over tighten the clamp,,
petrols do have a rubber ring on inlet pipe same sort of think, but the air flow meter is not before the turbo its within the pressure side of the inlet
 

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below link new collar must be decreased before fitting brake cleaner the turbo surface and rubber part and dont over tighten the clamp,,
petrols do have a rubber ring on inlet pipe same sort of think, but the air flow meter is not before the turbo its within the pressure side of the inlet
Thanks Mike!!

I've order new silicone hoses so presumably they do away with this collar as well!?
 

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yes they will still good idea to brake cleaner the surfaces as installing them avoids them blowing off
good shout Mike! :) - great advice as alwyas - I'll get some ordered when i order my clamps..
 

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I popped out and took some measurements of the sizes of clamps that will be required for the new silicone intake hose i've ordered... note that these sizes are roughly accurate and as mentioned above - you should get a clamp that covers the range of the size.. other factors like thickness of replacement hoses etc will need to be taken into account/adjusted from stock thickness where required..

Hope this helps!

276705


I also managed to find the diameters of the silicone hoses I've ordered:

Larger end - Inner Diameter 2.75" OD 3.25" (82.55 mm)
Smaller end - Inner Diameter 1.75" OD 2.25" (57.15 mm)

So I ordered stainless steel t-bolt clamps as follows:
1 x 56-59 mm (turbo end of intake)
1 x 80-85 mm (air box end of intake)
2 x 36-39 mm (pvc pipe)
 
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This will help anyone doing this ater on.

Just a quick note, I didn't need to fit a clamp to the hose going into the valve cover as it stayed securely in place once pushed in.
 

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This will help anyone doing this ater on.

Just a quick note, I didn't need to fit a clamp to the hose going into the valve cover as it stayed securely in place once pushed in.
yep.. wasn't sure about that... had a feeling it might fit snug on as it looks like a different connector there and no access to clamp up..

so looks like there would only be 4 clamps required.. either end of the intake pipe and either side of the PCV filter?/block (not sure exactly what this is? - i've seen some pictures of it with a harness connecting to it.. but mine just seems to be a block or filter with no connection?)...
 

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Yes if my maths are good :D.

You can fit one to the valve cover but it's an arse to do as you'll have to put the clamp right inside the cover and rotate the screw to tighten so I didn't bother in the end.
 

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you can drill a hole slot in top of cam cover to do clip up if fit one, its worth sticking catch can on this side must be a sealed can zero vent to outside must replicate the factory method so and from cam vent to turbo pipe,, its also handy to detect if having any fuel or spark issues with fuel showing up in the bottom of catch can and the smell of insides the can ie smells of petrol is not good sign,, another sign of this is never need to add oil to the car ie they all use some oil but on blow past the oil gets replaced with unburnt fuel,, also 02 sensors faulty and rich running can also do this and timing chain stretched adds to it,
 

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I will install 2 catch cans when i get my valves cleaned.. it's going in for a full service and health check at a local mini specialist and i'll then arrange to get anything required done (including walnut blasting and catch cans)..
 

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I will install 2 catch cans when i get my valves cleaned.. it's going in for a full service and health check at a local mini specialist and i'll then arrange to get anything required done (including walnut blasting and catch cans)..
catch cans are a good thing on them will stop the inlet coke issues as well until the valve stem seals start leaking of course, the trouble is the room you have in engine bay i fitted one on so far next one for inlet side will be behind the plastic baulk head covers under wipers as such i think with a pipe poking out to drain it off every few months,, that said my back breather to inlet manifold is still bone dry,, but thinking it might be because the petrol vapours cleaning it maybe once sorted this issue it might change,, but i am greedy i got two litre cans so nice and deep and added a internal tube to bottom of can and stole a hot tub sponge filter to force in there as well,,below link good read on catch cans etc
 

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catch cans are a good thing on them will stop the inlet coke issues as well until the valve stem seals start leaking of course, the trouble is the room you have in engine bay i fitted one on so far next one for inlet side will be behind the plastic baulk head covers under wipers as such i think with a pipe poking out to drain it off every few months,, that said my back breather to inlet manifold is still bone dry,, but thinking it might be because the petrol vapours cleaning it maybe once sorted this issue it might change,, but i am greedy i got two litre cans so nice and deep and added a internal tube to bottom of can and stole a hot tub sponge filter to force in there as well,,below link good read on catch cans etc
Thanks Mike!!
 

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i think there is enough room for inlet pcv can next to the brake servo behind the plastics and mount so can undo the drain screw through the plastic as such thats my plan when i get a minute,
You sound as busy as me!! Lol
 

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You sound as busy as me!! Lol
i'm meant to be at that point of life were it should slow down, trouble is everyone knows i'll work on the stuff that most people dont want to lol, got Citroen in next week head off job thats got prince engine, also got a Peugeot van with that silly 1.3 diesel from fiat with timing chain failure so thats a head off and pistons out job would guess plus all the other little bits of can i just take a look at this lol, got to that point of life where try and work to live and not live to work lol
 

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what is the size of the tube on the right-hand side as I have seen two different connection types, one with the locking plastic slider. Min is leaking oil back on the cover from the right-hand side, so not a snug fit.
 
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