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Spark plugs and coils

6360 Views 34 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Spencer_
Hello all, I'm hoping I can get some needed advice on replacing the spark plugs and coils on a 2015 Mini Cooper 1.6.
I need to know what spark plugs and coils are correct and will work correctly. I don't have the car in front of me and only have the information I've provided plus the VIN, so I wanna get the correct parts ordered the first time. Thanks a lot for any help.
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Currently looking at Bosch ZR6SPP302 Platinum with Bosch 0221504800 coils
or NGK 97968 laser Iridium with NGK 48888 coils.
If I did go with NGK they state a 0.032 gap, is that correct? And the Bosch ones are preset?
I bought the bosch coils and the Ngk laser iridium plugs are no longer available from what I have seen in the IR model. Just in the R model. IR were the good ones. Ngk suffers from small companies bootlegging them. So make sure you watch the tutorial on where to buy them. Brisk makes sparks plugs for mini and might be worth looking into.
In my opinion I would check all spark plug gaps. I have had a pack of NGK where one was off by .007 thousandths.
So anyways.
I bought the bosch coils and the Ngk laser iridium plugs are no longer available from what I have seen in the IR model. Just in the R model. IR were the good ones. Ngk suffers from small companies bootlegging them. So make sure you watch the tutorial on where to buy them. Brisk makes sparks plugs for mini and might be worth looking into.
In my opinion I would check all spark plug gaps. I have had a pack of NGK where one was off by .007 thousandths.
So anyways.
Thanks for the input! I was looking at the NGK's on RockAuto here. What is the correct gap for me to check them?
I'll probably get Bosch for both plugs and coils, I just wanted to double check the part numbers were correct.
NGK 97968 laser Iridium hmmm i was speaking to a guy who reconditions the high pressure fuel pumps for these engines he said do not use these plugs on these engines on factory coil packs as factory coil packs are weak and cant cope with them,,, i had a cooper s that was mapped 230bhp and had misfires randomly at peak power when mapped on rolling road we changed out the plugs back to factory ran better,
below link will sort that
But the Bosch ZR6SPP302 Platinums will work, correct?
Also, is this the correct socket needed Amazon.com: Baum Tools BMW and Mini Spark Plug Socket. Special 12 Point 14mm: Automotive
Thanks again
2
yes correct thin wall multi socket, and yes plat's are fine its the iridium is a lot harder plug and coils not strong enough to deal with them, below pics is factor fitment for n14
Text Font Line Screenshot Software

factory fitment for n18
Text Font Line Screenshot Software
Text Font Line Screenshot Software

personally i always put what factory use as car developed around them ie power of coils etc,
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How do I know if it is an N16, N14, or N18?
Here's what I'm seeing but since I'm not getting a Mini OEM plug it doesn't really help me. Not sure why it doesn't specify gap.
279080
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would give reg number to vendor before ordering n16 if non turbo early cars would of been n12 b16 maybe, should always use the reg number for fitment
My apologies but I don't know what you're referring to. This is my first time working on a Mini.
My apologies but I don't know what you're referring to. This is my first time working on a Mini.
vendor means where you buy the parts from, give them the chassis number or registration number on front of car,, in uk and eu you can just give a registration number and they can see if parts fit or not,
vendor means where you buy the parts from, give them the chassis number or registration number on front of car,, in uk and eu you can just give a registration number and they can see if parts fit or not,
RockAuto is my main parts supplier and they don't offer something like that. I ordered the Bosch plugs and coils, hopefully they work. The car will be dropped off next weekend for me to inspect an oil leak before the parts get here.
Car and parts have arrived. P0300, P0301 and P0303 codes, brake light on, and oil leak.
Shopkeypro have very little info on these, as with most newer foreign stuff. The brake fluid is about half full, that's not low enough to trigger the light, is it? What should I inspect next? Tomorrow I will install the parts and degrease the engine. What is the correct gap for factory/Bosch platinum plugs? Also, does anyone have a diagram showing the lift points? Sorry for so many questions, thanks again for any input.
brake light on is nothing to do with those codes,
P0300 MINI - Combustion Misfires Several Cylinders
P0301 MINI - Misfire cylinder 1
P0303 MINI - Misfire Cylinder 3

i would put money on its what always happens with 8 years or 80k plus miles leaking valve seats do to stem seals etc, below link good understanding of what happens to these engines and others these days

need to pull inlet and exhaust manifolds off and add compressed air in to plug hole with all 4 valves closed and spray liquid in each port see if have bubbles from valve seats best way,
Yeah... I know. Not sure how you thought I was saying they were related.
Does anyone have any answers to my questions?
Low brake fluid usually means worn/wearing pads, I had the brake warning light on mine, in fact its back again, I put it down to the caliper piston rubber boot being split and that was causing the piston to stick/seive, that was two years ago, I replaced discs on the rear and new pads all round after cleaning up and pushing the piston back with yet another 'special tool' then had my local garage remove the error codes as I don't have a scanner, its been fine for two years but obviously needs attention again, I'll get another caliper for it. Hopefully you just need to replace pads. The discs were cheap enough over here for a full set but the fronts were OK, the rears were destroyed, might have to do my front ones now too.

I don't drive this car as its the daughters but now its past 60k I do all the work on it and not too happy about some of the stuff I've read on here concerning this marque, I'll maintain it for if/when she returns and if she's going to settle in Canada I'll get rid asap as these appear to be junk once they get to a certain age.
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Yes, but the fluid is half full, is that low enough to trigger the light? I'm wondering if it's the fluid level or perhaps a parking brake problem causing the light to come on. I wasn't able to find the criteria for triggering the light in service data.
I found that brake fluid sensor seems to trigger even if it isn't down to add. It's a cheap fix to add some so it's full. Never know, worked for me!
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I got the new coils and plugs installed. Plugs were pre-gapped at 0.035. I think I'm still feeling a miss.
I got the new coils and plugs installed. Plugs were pre-gapped at 0.035. I think I'm still feeling a miss.
Yeah... I know. Not sure how you thought I was saying they were related.
Does anyone have any answers to my questions? because you wrote about them in same list of issues with car, brake fluid level and how car runs are not linked in any way, that was my point and I was talking about your misfire issues.
I always gap plugs at 0.018 as coil packs on these cars are weak even when new, and its possible for on compression stroke to reduce the spark if gaps to high,
in last 12 months i have seen maybe 30 cars with this same engine in with misfires and nearly all of them had new coil packs and plugs and injectors and cam sensors etc,, and all of them still had a misfire,, most of these cars with 100k ish on them had like what i sent link for lower miles cars with 60k on them were mainly timing chain related issues,, not a good pattern is it,
personally i would not replace any parts until i had diagnosed it correctly in first place , as all the above owners were more p....off that they had spent hundreds on parts it never needed in first place, your better off finding someone who knows what they are doing and pay them the rate to diagnose it correctly ,, rather than the throw parts blindly at that issue and thinking even a blind dog will find a bone if keeps on going on,
i get cars from a number of garages where they have given up on them as the eobd system is so interlinked that so many things can trigger same fault codes,,,
example other day had a cooper s in with cat low efficiently so owner put new cat on it fault code came back with in 6 months he then put 2x 02 sensors on it, he is £560 in parts and what ever labour was from a garage,, can ran ok ish for a few months until timing chain jumped teeth,, real issue was timing chain was so stretched it was effecting the over lap on the valves this dumps unburnt fuel on to cat burns a hole through it also destroys the sensors at same time,, this also makes engine run lean and rich depending on where temps were this caused a meltdown of number 1 piston that happened after they only repaired the timing chain and fitted new cat and sensors again,, so at this point this guy had spent over £3500 on this car for same chain of events that could of been repaired in first place,,, by someone who has had many years of seeing what these things do all the time,, not a if its a when, and anyone thinking a 100k car will be as good as a new car is living in silly town, the above car was rebuilt about year a go guy loves it again and also listened to best bit of advice,, check oil every 300 miles, keep on max mark,, change oil every 8k with filter, timing chains changes at 60k and at least take for a good 20 miles 3k run once a weak ,
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