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Discussion Starter #1
I've been getting a strong smell of Diesel out side the car .
When I took the engine cover and acoustic pad of there is a large build up of black carbon /gunk around number one injector .
Could it be the seal at the base of the injector?
It doesn't seem to be leaking at the moment and performance is OK .


 

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I've been getting a strong smell of Diesel out side the car .
When I took the engine cover and acoustic pad of there is a large build up of black carbon /gunk around number one injector .
Could it be the seal at the base of the injector?
It doesn't seem to be leaking at the moment and performance is OK .


thats a engine killer, cooper seals on injector leaking in to oil this loads the oil with rock hard parts of carbon that will block up oil filter and oil strainer on oil pump suck up in the sump, your first off job use carb cleaner spray and clean the crud wash it down wards tin to the sump then remove the sump do the same trick, fit new filter new oil add seafoam to the oil take car for 100 miles run drop oil again fit another new filter and more oil.. can buy from europarts 20 litre drum of engine oil £46 cheapest way, lucky you found it sooner enough most people get the blown up turbo and engine after a diesel runaway when it eats its own oil and wont stop just revs at 7k until goes bang and run out of oil to eat. need to get it all clean inside,
link for spray carb cleaner i would say need 4 cans and a stiff small brush
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Holts-EGR-Carb-Cleaner-Petrol-Diesel-Engines-Removes-Dirt-Grease-Fast-500ml-x2/153466224373?epid=1637369681&hash=item23bb4cbef5:g:1pEAAOSw7xxcxCgH
seafoam twin pack the spray good for cleaning as well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-CAN-KIT-PACK-SEA-FOAM-SF16-MOTOR-TREATMENT-SS14-SEAFOAM-SRAY/253102669524?epid=2185630474&hash=item3aee183ed4:g:OEUAAOSwCdJZlwY9
 

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From your pictures it's clear that you have leaking injector seals (chuffing injectors). The horrible diesel fume smell is evident of exhaust gases leaking past a small copper washer, this seals the injector into the combustion chamber. It does NOT affect engine oil or come in contact with engine oil.

From your pictures it looks like it been leaking a long time. It will be difficult to remove the injector and clean, you should be able to do just the one leaking seal. The head/seating will need to be reseated and all that crud removed. Don't buy seals from Ebay.
 

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From your pictures it's clear that you have leaking injector seals (chuffing injectors). The horrible diesel fume smell is evident of exhaust gases leaking past a small copper washer, this seals the injector into the combustion chamber. It does NOT affect engine oil or come in contact with engine oil.

From your pictures it looks like it been leaking a long time. It will be difficult to remove the injector and clean, you should be able to do just the one leaking seal. The head/seating will need to be reseated and all that crud removed. Don't buy seals from Ebay.
It does NOT affect engine oil or come in contact with engine oil. hmmm really does it not, so when there is not enough compression in that cylinder to atomise the fuel and make it burn off where do you think the unburnt diesel ends up, yep past the piston ring and ends on in the oil and crankcase,, also unburnt fuel gets in to exhaust effects the particulate filter causing the engine to try and regen its self this adds more fuel and retards the ignition causing back pressure from the dpf filter and causing carbon soot to blow past breather and piston rings etc, and loads the oil with even more crud,, as car has been driven for a fair while to get that amount of oil turning to grease residue on top its well in all the realms IE what i said before needs to be done to clean it out correctly,
how do I know this because i have seen this on all diesels that go that way mainly due to dpf filters adding to it,
 

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Thanks ,will get it sorted .
John
i've added a comment to clarify what happens and a non half arsed way to sort it out and possible bad outcome if dont do it correctly, you should also check the air filter might be totally black is so fit new one,, then worth sticking can of cataclean dpf cleaner in the fuel tank and in ideal world have the dpf forced regen with software autocom will do that cost £40 on ebay
as for only repairing the single seal thats up to you, if were my car i would do the lot do once and forget about rather than repair one of and sit there worrying about when another one fails and they do fail,, heat causes it when the engine goes through high pressure and high regens on the dpf filter as it driving along,, high tensile steel bolts and alloy soft head the move differently in heat. i buy ebay seals from company's that sell injectors all the time and they are fine and cheaper than main agents that said not that expensive anyways
 

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Stormbringer.
I suggest you do your own research before following advice from internet forums as you never really know who is advising.

You don't have a DPF problem, you don't have a turbo problem, and you're engine oil is most likely fine.

If you've let it get in to this state we can expect that you've not changed the oil recently or have any mechanical knowledge, unless you have a warning that the DPF is blocked there is no need to touch this.

What is important is that you take this to a competent mechanic, they will reseat the base of the injector seal, it needs to be spotlessly clean and perfectly flat to enable the new copper washer to sit flush and make a good seal, if you're not a mechanic yourself it's worth paying to get this done properly.

If you're interested in how to do it, take a look at page 6 of this guide. This is for the 1.6 PSA engine and not the BMW engine, but the seating of the injector is the same.

https://www.hdi-tuning.co.uk/downloads/GT1544V-turbo-110injector-upgrade-guide-1600HDI-TDCI.pdf

My offer of telephone advice remains
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks , I noticed the smell the day after I collected it .Its back at the garage ,they have replaced all the seals,I was supposed to get it back Saturday but number 2 is still leaking passed the new seal .Interestingly I think number 2 injector had previously been replaced as it looked new .
So further work to be done .
They also replaced the brake vacuum sensor as the stop start was not working .
The fault was cleared but the stop start still is not working .
The cleaned area .
 

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Thanks , I noticed the smell the day after I collected it .Its back at the garage ,they have replaced all the seals,I was supposed to get it back Saturday but number 2 is still leaking passed the new seal .Interestingly I think number 2 injector had previously been replaced as it looked new .
So further work to be done .
They also replaced the brake vacuum sensor as the stop start was not working .
The fault was cleared but the stop start still is not working .
The cleaned area .
concerning its had that injector out or changed before and you still have a issue not sealing, i would now question whether last owner drove it with seal leaking for a while and has damaged the injector seat in the head..
below is a link for cutting tool to clean and cut fresh seat for injector to sit on
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17pc-Diesel-Injector-Seat-Cutter-Set-Universal-Tool-Kit/262605637479?hash=item3d24840767:g:rjAAAOSwxg5Xx~Yn

disclaimer,,, but it might not be true lol
 

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when you have had it sorted ie this fault it would be wise to have a forced regen done of the dpf filter prevention it by far a lot cheaper than repairing the bi products or a blocked filter due to other faults on the engine, and very common is glow plugs, low compression, injector issues and leaking seals dumping the compression ratio so low on one cylinder will cause more soot and ecu will prevent the regen because it detects a issue,, and anyone who dont know this should not really be giving anyone advise on it,, its the very basic principle of how these systems work together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just spoke to the garage .
The original problem has been fixed with a second new injector and seal.
However there is another problem .
After approx 30 mins driving diesel stars to weep from around no 2 possibly the return pipe not the metal high pressure pipe .
They are changing the return pipes to see if this cures the problem .
 

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Just spoke to the garage .
The original problem has been fixed with a second new injector and seal.
However there is another problem .
After approx 30 mins driving diesel stars to weep from around no 2 possibly the return pipe not the metal high pressure pipe .
They are changing the return pipes to see if this cures the problem .
i would ask garage to do a diesel injector leak off test piezo injector testing link below for a guide how to.
electronic method, autocom will show m/gs per sec readings as will delphi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFLc7hEKnUk

leak off test below,found this one that he explains the process
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUmAyj6uBTo
 

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They took the cam cover off today and found the seal around the hole for number 2 injector has broken and the cam cover as well.
Bother being replaced .
would make me question if in the past its had a faulty injector replaced that got stuck in the head and who ever done the job had broken the cover etc,some times heads and injectors just hold together and impossible to get injectors out of head,, theres a guy on ebay charges £38 per injector to come and use a special puller tool he had made up
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It would appear the faulty number 2 injector seal had been melting the rubber seal and cam cover from the inside ,what they thought was diesel seepage was oil mixed with some diesel .


 

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It would appear the faulty number 2 injector seal had been melting the rubber seal and cam cover from the inside ,what they thought was diesel seepage was oil mixed with some diesel .


yep thats what they do that is what i was telling you about before when G-A-R-Y; rudely pointed out or implied that anyone on a forum should not be believed and should be treated as such,,, he's right you dont know who is giving their 10 pence worth and how accurate it is as if you had just replaced the seal you would be looking at a new engine or turbo or both within 10k if had not done a full check and repair to it,
hopefully the garage can recut a seat in to cylinder head to seal the injector, could try some well seal on the seat and copper seal dont normally use it as they should seal without it,, also could increase the torque setting to the fixing on injector by 20% and use lock tight on threads hopefully will prevent it coming loose again,,
the early 1.6 psa diesels on the mini would do same trick and on early one did it a lot and the carbon it caused would block the gauze filter on the turbo oil feed pipe and cause turbo failure and then this would cause diesel runaway a lot, clean oil on a turbo car is so much more important
 

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What are the chances of the injector seat being ok ?
Or should the seat cutter always be used after a chuffing injector seal .
Thanks
J
depends on the seat and shape of first injector seal gives a clue, also i use a endoscope type camera and poke down in the hole to view the seat. i would never just cut a seat for the sake of doing it as the seats only ever get damaged from loose injectors. or on some cars that water has go in to the engine bay and on top of the engine ie almost renault dci engines will corrode and injectors end up codded in this can cause a lot of damage,, i have a habit these days of very thin wipe of high temp grease on the injector shafts just helps the next time they might need removing,, guess one of my pet hate how car makers dont use lubricates on stuff for future strip downs almost like they want it to be a bigger job than it needs to be,
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks.
The engine is now back together and all seems well .
The other problem however is still there.
The stop start is not working .
The fault was recorded as the brake servo pressure valve .
A new BMW/Mini part has been fitted and the fault code cleared .
After a 40 mile drive today the stop start did not operate .
There are no faults showing after another scan.
Originally the stop start symbol would come on the dash with an explanation mark when you stoped .
This would then go out and a warning triangle would stay on untill the engine was switched off.
Any ideas.
 
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