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Discussion Starter #1
OK chaps -

I have recently done a few maintenance jobs on the engine - cam chain, oil pump chain, walnut blast etc and I thought I'd change out the thermostat whilst I was in there even though there were no leaks and no fault codes present. (Have heard that 'stats can give trouble)

Anyway, the one I fitted was a cheapy unit from ebay (about £25). The original 'stat was shot when I removed it - the plunger inside was cracked and it was effectively jammed open which would have led to longer warm up times I assume.

It's been back together a couple of weeks and all doing fine so far. However since reading up on other threads it seems like the cheapy 'stats are also potential trouble - so my question is - should I swap it out now for an original unit - or if it's just the sensors on the Chinese made ones that are the problem, can I just fit genuine sensors to the China made housing ? ) would be much simpler, and cheaper if I can buy them separately ?

Dave.
 

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no its not just the sensor that is not as good as genuine ones its the waxstat in the piloted thermostat and how it reacts and temperatures it works at etc, even the genuine ones have been a mine field and temps are so important
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike - I'll bear that in mind and keep a close eye on it. Any issues and I'll put a genuine one on.

On the subject of cooling - Would it be worth fitting an additional oil cooler ? - Car is a daily driver cooper S R55 in the north of England - mostly journeys of 5 miles or less but there is the occasional long trip. Planning to do annual oil changes which will be approx 5000 miles between. Only performance mod at the moment is a K&N stock style air filter, but I might be tempted to get a remap at some point in the future.

If it is worth fitting an oil cooler - What type / kit / would you reccomend ? Is there a decent how-to guide online ?

Thanks again - Dave.
 

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would deffo put a better oil cooler on them as they run so hot as normal and oil is working o it outer limits all the time. as for sticking my head on the block to which kit i would use i base price as being important where others dont on ebay there are a lot of kits for mini r56 uk vendor is always good and good feedback, that said i have seen some fair china ones around as very cheap money but then its how sure can anyone be when it dont have a bsi stamp on it say as the expensive ones do, i would also fit a temp and oil pressure gauge to it universal kit etc just nce to know what its doing as its doing it, unlike the stupid warning lights that only ever come on when the damage is done and to late
below link cooler that would go for if were my car as 19 rows comes with pipes ask for fitting instructions also remember to keep oil level 3-10mm above full mark from then on this replaces the displacement from the oil that is within the cooler circuit , just little tip most people dont think about,
as for fitting depending on pipe length would aim at mounting it to the front crash bumper structure behind the lower of it so gets nice airflow, you could really push the boat out while there and add a bigger better inter-cooler in that area as well get a better bang for buck, cheeky remap at sum point
 

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Thanks Mike - I'll bear that in mind and keep a close eye on it. Any issues and I'll put a genuine one on.

On the subject of cooling - Would it be worth fitting an additional oil cooler ? - Car is a daily driver cooper S R55 in the north of England - mostly journeys of 5 miles or less but there is the occasional long trip. Planning to do annual oil changes which will be approx 5000 miles between. Only performance mod at the moment is a K&N stock style air filter, but I might be tempted to get a remap at some point in the future.

If it is worth fitting an oil cooler - What type / kit / would you reccomend ? Is there a decent how-to guide online ?

Thanks again - Dave.
Some videos on YouTube for the R56, should be similar install.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks chaps - will put an oil cooler and temp gauge on the "to do" list. Ta for the ebay link.

On the subject of running hot, whilst doing other work on the engine, and this being my first mini - I noticed that the exhaust runs very close indeed to the pressed steel sump, which is shaped around it. There's a lot of surface area in close proximity. Surely a heat shield, or some thermal wrap around that section of exhaust pipe, would deliver a few degrees drop in oil temps, cost peanuts and be simple to install ? - just looks like a nice easy quick gain to me. Has anybody in the Mini world explored this idea ?

I have a fair bit of time under my belt with aircooled flat 4 VW's - it is noted that oil temps increase when aftermarket exhaust systems run up close to the rocker covers and cylinder heads without heat shielding.

Also on this topic, I have experience of the Smart Roadster (still have it - great little car) - and they basically have the same engine as the smart ForTwo - except it's bored larger and is higher tuned. 100 bhp from 700cc in the Brabus Roadster. It has been noted that the roadster engine runs for higher mileages before rebuilds than the ForTwo engine despite putting out more BHP. The Roadster has an oil cooler, the ForTwo does not. So Mike - there's another vote for cooler oil !

Dave.
 

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Thanks chaps - will put an oil cooler and temp gauge on the "to do" list. Ta for the ebay link.

On the subject of running hot, whilst doing other work on the engine, and this being my first mini - I noticed that the exhaust runs very close indeed to the pressed steel sump, which is shaped around it. There's a lot of surface area in close proximity. Surely a heat shield, or some thermal wrap around that section of exhaust pipe, would deliver a few degrees drop in oil temps, cost peanuts and be simple to install ? - just looks like a nice easy quick gain to me. Has anybody in the Mini world explored this idea ?

I have a fair bit of time under my belt with aircooled flat 4 VW's - it is noted that oil temps increase when aftermarket exhaust systems run up close to the rocker covers and cylinder heads without heat shielding.

Also on this topic, I have experience of the Smart Roadster (still have it - great little car) - and they basically have the same engine as the smart ForTwo - except it's bored larger and is higher tuned. 100 bhp from 700cc in the Brabus Roadster. It has been noted that the roadster engine runs for higher mileages before rebuilds than the ForTwo engine despite putting out more BHP. The Roadster has an oil cooler, the ForTwo does not. So Mike - there's another vote for cooler oil !

Dave.
when they design a engine there are two 3 main forces at work, emissions, how long it will run for,costs. car makers want cars to last as short times as they can get away with, owners dont and if got 3 years then bang end of most people would catch on and not buy them so 60-100,000 miles seems to be where its all landed. then governments ie 27 EU block members decided what emissions the car owner will be tortured with next year with, ie we are at euro6 at moment and very expensive and designed not to preserve an engine for sure its all about tail pipe readings designed in a way to run ok for ex amount of years in a perfect world where a car starts in the morning gets driven at 3000 revs over 20 miles there and 20 miles back on a motorway. they also add 20,000 miles service plans this also does damage in the early years where cars are on force service plans by the makers and they fully know what this causes in the future with running around with carbon and dirty oil etc, most cars by 100.000 miles are clogged up and worn out due to this rubbish on emissions. i have worked on a lot of cars with deleted egr and cat and dpf filters and all the oil is clean they run so much better and the strange part go through the gas check lower than with them go figure that, so they design these cars i feel to fail not to survive like you said adding heat from exhaust boils oil when car is hammered for sure deffo worth heat shield,, i do some work for a rolling road garage and repair garage and heat is not away your friend you need some to keep things from going brittle as such as heat release the stress within an metal component to a degree but take to much away ie run to cold will cause issues find that magic balance the power goes up as more cold air is more dense and ,more air molecules etc, we do a trick for track use or course ha ha decat a turbo car then move the 02 sensors next to each other and map it for pops and bangs etc as it narrows down the reaction times on when the ecu trims fuel air etc with a straight through exhaust can map in some fairly big blue flames out the exhaust on over runs, john at black magic performance centre as per my signature has a mental v8 c63 Mercedes amg never heard anything like it and beyond fast, sounds how all cars should sound by law lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
, i would also fit a temp and oil pressure gauge to it universal kit etc just nce to know what its doing as its doing it, unlike the stupid warning lights that only ever come on when the damage is done and to late
below link cooler that would go for if were my car as 19 rows comes with pipes ask for fitting instructions also remember to keep oil level 3-10mm above full mark from then on this replaces the displacement from the oil that is within the cooler circuit , just little tip most people dont think about,
as for fitting depending on pipe length would aim at mounting it to the front crash bumper structure behind the lower of it so gets nice airflow, you could really push the boat out while there and add a bigger better inter-cooler in that area as well get a better bang for buck, cheeky remap at sum point
Cheers Mike - Got myself a gauge today - It runs off the OBD plug and I have it showing oil temp and coolant temp. Took it out for a 15 - 20 min drive, oil and coolant temps rose quickly, both maxed out within 10 mins of fairly steady driving on local roads (30 - 40 mph).

Coolant temp maxed out at 102 C and and stayed at 101 / 102 for the rest of the drive. Does this sound normal to you ? Nearly all my previous cars that came fitted with temp gauges ran the coolant at or very close to 90. Over 100 has me a little worried. I have a new 'stat on the car but it's a cheapo one so I want to watch it carefully bearing in mind what you said on this & other threads about them not being up to much. Haynes manual says the stat should open at 82 C.

Oil temp ran between 120 and 126 when fully warm. How does this sound ? I also took the sump temp with my infra red thermometer, that read 90 degrees whilst the engine gauge read 125 degrees at the same time. Where abouts on the engine is the oil temp sensor located ? Just wondering why the large discrepancy in readings.

Also re. thermostats - The better ones (that you linked to) have an adaptor cable and I'm sure you mentioned somewhere that they are electrically operated ? So do I have it right that the earlier type is basically a wax stat in a housing with 2 sensors, and the later type is controlled by a solenoid valve or motorised valve ? Am I also correct that the later type with the adaptor cable will work on an earlier car (2008) ?

Cheers - Dave.
 

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no all prince engines are piloted by the main ecu the revised 4 pin type as i listed is the latest version updated, the little wire with it is needed to attach it to the cars wiring,,( WIRING CHANGES IT FROM TWO PLUG TO SINGLE PLUG)
prince engines all run hot ie all part of the low emissions designing, reality is not a good thing for stress from excess heat in my book compared to older engines ie 80-95c was always a target to cool a older designed engines, its possible to change how the piloted thermostat controls everything via map ie the mini has a water pump that can be switched on and off as such via the jockey wheel,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks once again Mike.

So just over 100C is a normal water temp reading - As least I'm not worrying that the engine is about to boil over !

And 125 C is a normal reading for the oil as well then ? (No aftermarket oil cooler as yet but I have insulated the exhaust as per my other post)

Dave.
 
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