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ok, read the whole thread and OMFG Cosmic, you are a trier! you just never give up. Loving the support. Like me, I never give up, it WILL work, eventually one time you'll smile! the end result will negate the pain. Unless a motor is a write off, a non runner is simply a DIY project ready to hit the road and purr! best wishes.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Thanks Scudder for those kind words. I've sunk too much cash into it now so it's all or nothing.
The latest is that my honing tool arrived and the bores are now nicely honed at a 45deg pattern.
I was refitting the crank bearings which looked fine with hardly any wear and noticed one had a tiny crack in the middle.
I really don't want to buy a full set so I'll put a new post out asking if anyone has a spare.
2 steps forward, 1 step back.
 

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Thanks Scudder for those kind words. I've sunk too much cash into it now so it's all or nothing.
The latest is that my honing tool arrived and the bores are now nicely honed at a 45deg pattern.
I was refitting the crank bearings which looked fine with hardly any wear and noticed one had a tiny crack in the middle.
I really don't want to buy a full set so I'll put a new post out asking if anyone has a spare.
2 steps forward, 1 step back.
just need to add something you say got a crack in a bearing thats not a good sign and would always fit new set of Bearings in,, below link i have put those in my car and many others, cheap but not nasty
mains and big ends below i have tried these but should be ok cheapest option better than reusing old ones
 

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you will be so pissed if when all back together find a bearing issue and could just been £43 extra now tuns in to a lot more money remember when fitting rod bearinga nd crank bearings tap the end caps just before adding the torque setting then rotate crank after each one to ensure not gone tight from a bearing not seated right,, fail to do this as you go on every one could spin a bearing and destroy crankshaft when go to run the car first time, ENGINE MUST ROTATE NO STIFF POINTS AS SUCH AND LAG IT WITH OIL, CRANK ENGINE OVER FOR 5 MINUTES BEfORE STARTING IT GET OIL AROUND OFF STARTER ONLY,
 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
Sorry Mike, I don't understand what the end cap cartridge is? Is this the same thing the Haynes manual calls the main bearing ladder?
 

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Sorry Mike, I don't understand what the end cap cartridge is? Is this the same thing the Haynes manual calls the main bearing ladder?
yes it is old engines had 5 end caps if 5 bearing crank or some w=engine 6 caps,, designers found over time the blocks could warp with rotational loads etc so by having all end caps in a cartridge that bolts to block at many points make the engine stronger by plenty of load bearings all around the crankshaft,, mainly due to alloy blocks
 

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Discussion Starter #88
better to replace them if can, as are stretch bolts and should be replaced,, i have used red loctite also use a anti grease and oil cleaner like brake cleaner or thinners and ensure no oil gets on the threads when sticking bolts in so threads are lubricated by the loctite as such,, for sake of what they cost better to bite the bullet and order new ones,, if cant get near a mini dealer Peugeot Citroen and order same year for 1.6 thp engines they are same ie 207gti or 208 gti or vti ep6 same bolts
I just can't get these and waiting for dealers to open could take months so I've decided to reuse these. I've cleaned the holes and bolts and I'll use a bit if thread lock too.
I've read mixed reviews on reusing but haven't actually came across a failed bolt. As far as I can see, if the bolt isn't visibly stretched/necked then it will be ok.
Obviously I'll use new bolts on the head which I can easily get off eBay.
Since I still have my old scrap block and bolts I'll do a practice run on that first and if all goes fine then I don't see the problem.
Yes it's not ideal, but we're not in ideal times.
 

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I just can't get these and waiting for dealers to open could take months so I've decided to reuse these. I've cleaned the holes and bolts and I'll use a bit if thread lock too.
I've read mixed reviews on reusing but haven't actually came across a failed bolt. As far as I can see, if the bolt isn't visibly stretched/necked then it will be ok.
Obviously I'll use new bolts on the head which I can easily get off eBay.
Since I still have my old scrap block and bolts I'll do a practice run on that first and if all goes fine then I don't see the problem.
Yes it's not ideal, but we're not in ideal times.
i've reused them in the past when customer did not want extra costs and was selling it after repair or they kept car and still running fine,, thread lock is a must and dry oil free bolts and thread etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I've just tested my spare bolts on my scrap block and it all went fine.
Torqued each down to 30Nm, then turned 150degs as per the Haynes manual.
Happy days.
 

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happy days i've been out in garden today pulled my wheels off cooper s and removed all the curb damages around them,, berrr tool on drill i use for porting heads with and etch prime the metal bits them paint with satin black and stick a clear coat over the top got 3 back on car finish the last one tomorrow me thinks, also cut the branches off a over handing tree over the fence,, got two pieces 3ft and 6ft long 2x1 inch wood and screwed the saw to it,, ha ha no ladders just two kinds of duck in this world when branches come down lol. and this evening will be sat in hot tub chilling
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Sounds like a perfect day and a well deserved beer.
I finished the bottom end an hour ago. Crank turns nice and smooth with new bearings and seals etc.
Just gotta drop it off at the garage tomorrow for them to bolt it back into the engine bay. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #94
So after parting with £50 to get the mini transported to a local mini garage for them to remove the scrap block, put in the new one and extracting £300 cash for it, then paying another £50 to get it transported back, I can now say it's home sweet home and ready for me to start building back up.
Happy days...... Well for now.
 

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could of hired a engine crane for £20 for week from somewhere surely, i bought one off ebay 6 years ago new for under £80 and have used the hell out of it lol. guess me all know what your next few weeks then lol
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I actually have an engine crane but it's no good if you can't remove the nearside front wheel and drive shaft because there's only an inch clearance from the wall.
My garage is smaller then Tom thumbs bedroom!
 

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i've ran into such issue before, ended up pulling engine and gearbox out outside garage and putting back bottom ball joints to be able to shove it back in again lol. things we do to do what we do
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
I tried the piston rings in the bores, pushed them down about an inch with a piston.
Top ring gap is coming in at about 0.4mm, middle ring gap coming in at about 0.6mm
Not ideal gaps (0.1 - 0.2mm) but I've got no choice but too just carry on.
At least I don't have to worry about the gaps being too tight :)

Bugger, just realised I should've measured the bottom of the bore, not the top! Doh.
 

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i measure 2inch down bores, after you and you must hone the bores those gaps will slightly increase and will be fine for sure,, i also use one piston without its rings on to push the ring into bore so is level in the bore as such..
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Can anyone tell me how this intake manifold bracket fits in the block?
This is the photo I took before I took of the vac reservoir. Note the bracket seems to go along the valley.
This is how it looks now
Have I bent the bracket somehow?
Does the bracket go under or on top of the studded bolt that fixes it to the block?
Any help would be much appreciated.
 
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