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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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Thanks Mike - I wonder if I got away with less damage because the chain jumped rather than snapped. Wouldyou change the white metal bearings anyway if you were me, or leave well alone?
 

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Thanks Mike - I wonder if I got away with less damage because the chain jumped rather than snapped. Wouldyou change the white metal bearings anyway if you were me, or leave well alone?
think like said yours was a slip and light clips of valves so would say the bearing would be fine, that said while something is out and not to expensive to replace i would but thats just me,, i do a lot of petrol cooper s engine rebuilds through the years and have had times where only done what i could see to find later down road it should of had more replaced while i was in there,, as bearing set £60 extra, but if put back together and a few thousand miles down road found had a wear issue low oil pressure and believe me you will regret that £60 never spent at that point when you have to pull it all a part again,,
on engine that break camshafts and really lock the motor up chances are it will have impacted crankshaft bearings and maybe bent conrods as well,, believe me these bmw engines are not that strong these days built to be light and just enough way of seeing them ie light cars low emissions etc , dont sit well for long term strength
 

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Also Mike is the wellseal only for the timing chain cover?
yes timing covers or any surface to surface parts like oil pumps and etc,,, and the ELRING do a really good grey sealant for sumps it goes off very hard when engine warms up so dont break off and no risk of collecting the rubber in oil ways etc,, only ever put just enough to seal something as when join surfaces together the over spill can cause big issues, hence the welseal stuff is thin and can use it on head gasket with a sponge but i dont and clean both surfaces spotless clean then wipe with thinners just before dropping head on , also also ways light grease or oil head bolts and always clean out the threads beofre as any oil or water in bolt holes will contamination the gasket and can crack block when engine gets hot ,, and it cant get out of the pressurise thread holes from the bolts as such, all the little things make a difference
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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Cheers Mike - I will replace the bearings & thanks Once again.
 

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The mechanic the previous owner had it at, removed a lot of stuff out of the way. So I was able to remove the camshaft with housing. No cracks on camshaft housing at all and no damage I can see to rocker arms. Now - covered up engine to avoid debris and then over the next couple weeks (don't have a lot of spare time) will take the front end off and then buy a cheap engine hoist and remove the engine. I am keen to see what damage to the valves etc. Hoping since camshaft housing etc is ok then head won't be too bad.
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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Not sure how the timing chain can snap & not damage rockers etc. perhaps Mike will know. Looking at mine the valves are not angled in the head, they open vertically so if the piston clobbers it, rather than the valve bend all the force is directed straight up through the valve hence broken rockers, housing & bent camshaft etc. (which is exactly what happened to mine). I'd be interested to know what you find when you pull it apart. Probably a stupid question but now you have the cam cover off, can you see the that chain has actually is snapped?
 

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chains rarely snap the more likely to slip teeth, the small sprockets wear really badly and chain gent longer and tension can cope then get loads of free play in system until something slips or snaps,, as for engine damage depends how hard car is reving makes a lot of difference,, also might find valve stems might be stronger on later cars or earlier cars and react differently to impact damage
 

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Not sure how the timing chain can snap & not damage rockers etc. perhaps Mike will know. Looking at mine the valves are not angled in the head, they open vertically so if the piston clobbers it, rather than the valve bend all the force is directed straight up through the valve hence broken rockers, housing & bent camshaft etc. (which is exactly what happened to mine). I'd be interested to know what you find when you pull it apart. Probably a stupid question but now you have the cam cover off, can you see the that chain has actually is snapped?
YEs - the chain was broken - my suspicious mind is thinking the mechanic cut it as it was just the link on top and the guides are ok - however maybe contrary to that theory the tensioner which is visible is damaged - it popped in half by the looks of it
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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It seems odd there’s no damage to the rockers etc. If the chain snaps some of the valves have to be left in the open position & get hit by the pistons? Anyway, I would suggest removing camshafts etc. & glow plugs, do the leakdown test & just check the engine does actually rotate by hand. Mike’s more knowldgable than me so might be worth seeing what he says.
 

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Thanks Dave. I am going to try the "remove front of car" method over the next few days and then buy a engine hoist (cheaper to buy than rent). Then do a leak down test. The injectors are already out so may do it through that. I have a mate that used to be a big engine diesel mechanic so will see if he still has the fittings for a leakdown test through the injectors
 

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Might be worth doing the leakdown test & check engine rotates first as they are very easy quick things you can do with the engine in & only takes minutes (once you get the glow plugs out)
 

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It seems odd there’s no damage to the rockers etc. If the chain snaps some of the valves have to be left in the open position & get hit by the pistons? Anyway, I would suggest removing camshafts etc. & glow plugs, do the leakdown test & just check the engine does actually rotate by hand. Mike’s more knowldgable than me so might be worth seeing what he says.
guess should go buy a lottery ticket with luck like that,, it must of just placed the camshaft at a very rare point when nothing was total open and the spring tool the hit maybe,, right ball ache of job,, i notice there are timing chain for them engines on ebay that have link that is clipped and there is a trick where pressure the tensioner spring back and feed to new chain through but thats only the top chain ,, might find someone has tried this approach not a good way forward on many levels,,
 

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Yeah - I am going to take the engine out for sure. I really want to take the head off to see if there is any damage. No sense doing all the work of putting a timing chain in and then having to take it out again.
 

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Took a few hours off work today and got the front off the car. Couple stupid questions. 1. Do the oil coolers leak on these cars ? There is oil stained down from the oil cooler to the bottom large hose, that bottom, hose on the drivers side is soaked in oil. 2. Now that I have the front off, do I need to still pull the engine (just thinking of the cost and hassle of getting an engine hoist - no room to store it). I seem to be able to get at everything with the front off, although maybe it is the exhaust manifold bolts I wont be able to reach ?
Sorry to be a pain. Really appreciate your responses.
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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I can’t help you with the oil leak question but I removed the head with the turbo, dpf / manifold still attached. To get at all the bolts I supported the engine with a trolly jack & block of wood under the sump, removed the O/S upper & lower engine mounts, separated the exhaust just above the
flexible joint where it joins the dpf. I then pulled the engine forward with a ratchet strap on the towing eye, so you’d have to refit the bumper bar to do this. I’m about to take the front off mine this week & I’m in exactly tithe same position regarding the hoist.
B85F0546-651D-409F-819F-3997690D30B6.jpeg

B12743DB-4BA8-427C-8419-51864DCE4791.jpeg
 

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Since it looks like the valves haven’t touched the pistons, isn’t it worth doing a leakdown test before anything else? If it passes surely there’s no need to take the head off.
 

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Good idea. I guess embarrassingly I still am not sure how to do the leakdown test. I mean I understand that I can get an adapter to get into either the injector ( this is my preference since they are already out) r or glow plug...but don't I have the cylinder I test at tdc ? How do I specifically do this for a Diesel ? I have a compressor,. First diesel I have worked on. I realsie I leave the rockers off when I do the test too but still a bit confused. If it passes the leakdown then I can just do the timing belts. ….which means still taking the sump off as well as the transmission.
 

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I’m out at the moment but I’ll send a photo & explanation of how I did it. I haven’t got a proper leakdown kit, but I had some fittings & a Pressure gauge but mine was leaking so badly it showed there was a problem & the head had to become off. You can buy a proper leakdown test kit off eBay (Mike may recommend a decent one as there’s loads to chose from) Basically you pressurise the cylinder, shut off the air supply & it shows how well the cylinder holds pressure (in my case it lost all pressure in about 2 seconds as all the valves were leaking)
 

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Thanks Dave- appreciate that. Need to know how to put each cylinder at tdc as well otherwise assume they will leak as the valves will be open. In a normal engine I could just put a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole..buy not sure if that works down the injector hole
 
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