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Thanks Dave- appreciate that. Need to know how to put each cylinder at tdc as well otherwise assume they will leak as the valves will be open. In a normal engine I could just put a screwdriver down the sparkplug hole..buy not sure if that works down the injector hole
easier with rocker cover off , watch the camshaft lobes ie all 4 valves closed best way to be sure valves are closed
 
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easier with rocker cover off , watch the camshaft lobes ie all 4 valves closed best way to be sure valves are closed
Ok thanks - that makes sense - I will put the cam housing back on -with no timing chain guess where the piston is isn't a big deal as the valves are operating independent to the pistons anyway. I assume so long as the valves are closed it shouldn't leak down
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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As promised picture of gauge etc. I used for test. Pressure is coming in from compressor through pipe on LH side of photo, passes through the on/off valve, the pressure gauge is ‘teed’ into the pipe which is then connected to the adaptor which is connected to head via glow plug thread. I pressurised each cylinder to about 90psi then shut the on/off valve & the pressure dropped almost immediately so I knew it was bent valves & therefore head off. I did it like this as I was in a hurry, & already had the bits to do it, but I will get the proper leak-down kit, which has 2 gauges & shows the percent leakage but if you’ve got a pressure gauge etc. the way I did it will show up whether there’s a serious loss of pressure (i.e. bent valves) or if it holds pressure to some degree.
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Just seen your latest reply - if the camshafts etc. have been removed altogether, all the valves will be closed anyway.
 

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Thanks Dave - bought the kit with adapters today - have to modify tomorrow to fit my air hose etc. The adapters I have only work on the glow plug. I carefully oild them and slowly remove them..but one of them didnt come out - it is just spinning. Any tips to remove it now?
..
 

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Problem I am having in using a glow plug adapter is that the hose for the adapter seems to only work with air going up and through. Meaning it is meant to have air go into the compression tester but not out. I cut the hose in half from the compression tester - put the gauge on top ..a valve going in and the hose for the adapter (they have a different head than normal air fittings). Turning air on doesn't send air out the adapter. I obviously made it so I can fill it with air and then shut it off and see the pressure but since air doesn't go out of the hose with the adapter then it doesn't work. I can't see a way to use the proper adapter (which has a strange non-standard fitting) back into the tee.
 

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Drilled the stop out on the hose end. Put about 50lbs in a s it leaks out. I held the I injector in but maybe it is leaking out there. Since I have the intake off I know it isn't leaking there... Can't feel or hear anything leaking there. All 3 I can get the adapter in sound like leaking out exhaust but that doesn't make sense. Anyway since the ow plug broke off on one cylinder I assume head needs to come off anyway.
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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There are videos of glow plug removal tools on the internet but I have no idea how successful they are. Perhaps Mike’s had injectors snap off & can advise on best way forward.
If the valves are definitely closed, & air is leaking out the exhaust it would indicate the exhaust valves aren’t sealing so maybe they’re bent. I would definitely clamp the injectors back in though, & repeat the test, rather than hold them in by hand, so you know there’s definitely nothing leaking past them.
 

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i stopped trying to remove them with so call removal tools hit and miss when you know what your doing, better off send head to engine machine shop let them deal with it, and any other damage you find ,, one slip with a drill and throw head in bin ,, the hidden hassles with thin glow plugs and n47 diesel
 

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So - any tips on removing the head bolts????

Even went and bought special impact rated e-torx 1/2 inch drive and (special high strength made specifically for head bolts) no luck even with a big breaker bar. Tried my air impact wrench but its an old cheap one with not a huge amount of torque and no luck. BTW - I did my homemade leak down with correct glow plug adapter and injector screwed in properly and it doesn't hold air at all in the three cylinders I tried. It isn't leaking out intake or exhaust valves from what I can tell but rather it is leaking between cylinders - so assume a crack i can't see or a head gasket. It is a loud air leak.
 

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1/2 drive a must, i have breaker bar as below link 40 inches long sometimes add a 3ft piece of scaffold poll to the end of it ,, end of day bolts need to come out or snap off hopefully not snap off,, the joys of N47 diesels some come apart easy some battle you on ever turn and screw and bolt,
 

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1/2 drive a must, i have breaker bar as below link 40 inches long sometimes add a 3ft piece of scaffold poll to the end of it ,, end of day bolts need to come out or snap off hopefully not snap off,, the joys of N47 diesels some come apart easy some battle you on ever turn and screw and bolt,
Thanks Mike - Would you recommend a good impact air wrench as well or not ? Thinking maybe getting one and letting loose on it
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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Mine came out by ‘swinging’ on a breaker bar using just about all my strength but like Mike says it feels like every nut, bolt & screw has been a battle on mine. I’ve got the front off now but one of the bolts holding the fridge pipes to the condenser has snapped off. Even undoing it tiny amount each time backwards and forwards, & loads of WD40, so I’ve got that to drill out now. The AC had no gas in it so could be that the condenser is ‘shot’ anyway but that’s the least of my worries at the moment.
 

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Never had a bolt so much trouble and all ten head bolts are on there tight. Never had something my big breaker bar couldn't handle but this takes the cake. I am in need of a better impact air wrench anyway but not sure that will do the trick either.
 

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2011 MINI COUNTRYMAN (R60) 1.6 Cooper D ALL4 Diesel
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If it were me I would try the scaffold tube on the breaker bar first.
 

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Never had a bolt so much trouble and all ten head bolts are on there tight. Never had something my big breaker bar couldn't handle but this takes the cake. I am in need of a better impact air wrench anyway but not sure that will do the trick either.
i got the dewalt zr 1/3 drive impact gun 1650nm torque and that sometime dont remove them afte 3 minutes on each one and need a 6ft long pipe on breaker bar,, bloody hateful engine those N47 readings people comments on where they are with them and every nut and bolt a battle,,, deffo reminds me that i do the right thing these days by saying no the all n47 diesels on all levels ... funny was speaking to a couple of garage guys a while ago and we were talking about worst engines they had worked on,, and all of us agreed on these lol,, just got to keep chipping away at it dont set to many goals then dont get to pddddd when it dont happen
 

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Yep - 850 foot pound (900 breakaway) and it loosened 7 of the ten. The other three IO have tried even setting the engine on it's side and adding a pipe to the breaker bar and literally stepping on it and nothing ....to be continued.

The shit thing is I don't know if the engine will even be good...there is no air being kept in on leak down...none at all.
 

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Wow - Head is off - who needs skin on their knuckles anyway.

They pistons just kissed the valves.

What is the next step. How do I tell why it was leaking air during the 'leakdown" ? It wasn't holding any at all but wasn't coming our through the exhaust or intake...sounding like travelling along the cylinders

Do you guys normally take the head to the machine shop and have them replace valve seals and give it skim ? I likely need to take it to get the glow plug out anyway.

How do I tell if the bottom of the engine is ok ? (i.e. if it is leaking past the pistons ?
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would say from lack of real damage on head or pistons and cam shaft not broken got away with very light damage chances are big bearings wont be impacted,, that all said if were mine i would pull pistons stick set of rings in and new big end bearings and hone the bores then its refreshed ,, as rings set and bearings extra £100 maybe,, i got a fiesta at mo in with 1.4tdci engine and cam belt slipped teeth 80k on clock and i have all pistons out with re ring it etc its a piece of mind thing,, as for sending head for skim etc chances are the valve seats are fine just need relap in ,, i cheat these days got a drip lap tool lot easier,
Shank Valve Lapping Tool Attachment + 4 Suction Plates | eBay
what i do with machine shop sending i would strip the head to bare bones then get it skimmed and glow plug removed and lap valves in my self as this is big bit of labour they will charge for it, i also check head surface with metal rule and laser pen for any warped bits if none then i would clean the surface up and just before going back on car use a scotchbrite pad to gently leave light keys on the surface ie this helps the gasket stick to it, i also use brake cleaner or preclean thinners just before clean both surfaces,,
 
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Now when I put the head back on for kick and giggles - prior to taking it in to get the glow plug out : I run the homemade lead down and it is holding air not bad (I bought a proper leakdown test but need a couple adapters as the fittings won't work with my adapters and the fittings don't come off). The air come out the coolant spot on the head only now - the port below the intake. If i just even hold my hand over it then it holds the air very well. That is strange but when they test the head I guess they will be able to tell ..

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