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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Keep in mind that brakes are a very important safety item on your vehicle. Do not try this advice unless you are already comfortable with this sort of maintenance work. And of course, read on at your own risk.

My girlfriend and I changed out the rear pads on her Cooper S last night, and I thought I'd share a couple of tips.

It is possible to remove the brakepads from the caliper without completely removing the caliper from the carrier. First use a screwdriver to remove the retaining spring that goes across the caliper on the outboard side. Then remove the plastic cap from the upper caliper pin (there are two round plastic caps on the inboard side of the caliper, hard to miss). Inside you will find a 7mm allen head. Remove, using a 7mm male allen socket and wrench. Once it comes out about 1/2 an inch (the length of the threads) you can pull it out by hand. These "pins" are what the caliper rides on. Once the top one is removed, you can tilt the caliper towards the back of the car and down to reach the pads. This may require the use of a pry bar or large flathead screwdriver. Once you can reach the pads, wiggle them out and wiggle in the new pads.

If you don't want to spend $150 on a tool from Mini, you can, with much effort and patience, twist the caliper pistons back into place to allow clearance of the new pads with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Remove the cap to your master cylinder (under hood, driver's side, where the brake fluid goes) and then spread the pliers and place the tips inside two of the four holes in the caliper piston. Then press in and turn clockwise. This is not easy, but with patience and perserverece you can get the caliper piston to retract enough to tilt it back into place over the new pads.

Now simply replace the caliper pin and retaining spring. You should probably get some brake lubricant and clean and re-lube the pin before replacing, your call. In total, the job took us about 1 /2 hours.

Good luck and happy motoring!

Cheers,
Brian
 

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I've done mine too !

I did both front & back last night, but there were slight differences. Fronts were very easy, backs slightly more complicated.

The allen key headed bolt was a No. 45 torx head bolt , and I removed both bolts and removed the caliper completely

Did you have to slide the pair of spring clips onto the caliper piston on the rear of the inboard brake shoe ?

And fine nose pliers worked great, but like you say you do need to push and turn at the same time.

I changed my pads for GREEN STUFF ones since I wanted to reduce the build up of brake dust on my alloys. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used Green Stuffs as well, had them on other cars, great pads! I didn't do anything special with clips on the inboard pad, hope I didn't miss anything. So far, she's stopping great though, so I think I'm okay.

The head of the caliper pins is a 7mm allen head, but I guess #45 torx would work as well. ;)

Cheers,
Brian
 
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