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Discussion Starter #221
185K is an impressive lifespan for a CVT. I must admit if I were you I'd hang on to her(?) for sentimental reasons.
 

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CVT still going strong

2006 Mini CVT now has over 85,000 miles and still is still running fine. I had the CVT oil changed about 40,000. The car still looks new with no problems. I will happily buy a replacement CVT if and when it breaks. The Mini with the CVT is better than any Cooper S in my opinion.
 

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I sold the '02

Reporting to this wonderful group that I sold our '02 MINI Cooper CVT. It is going strong with 137,000+ miles. The new owner is delighted with the level of maintenance, records, and stories.

It provided a very capable driving experience as those who followed me in other threads know well. It provided reasons to work with all of you; to figure out how to drive it properly, to document the quirks, and to be a reason to share. I honestly miss the car! And to document items that Sejanus wants to track, it had the gearbox replaced under an extended warranty at 98,000 miles.

We lived through the challenging early software releases and the evolving MINI organization's support. Inside of those elements, we developed friends, and always had the support of good people.

I have not been an active poster here recently, my fault. This is not a signoff post from me either, but I do want to express appreciation to all of you who helped me at so many points during this ownership experience. I have very much enjoyed MINI2 and this Forum.

Thank you!

Nonsequitur
 

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Transmission problems FIXED

I(My Wife) have 2005 mini coopers S
6 speed getra auto transmission
Transmission starting to have problems shifting when hot. at first it have problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd, then she said that it would not go over 30mph. So we decide to stop driving until find a fix. I call different places and search the net. Finally I found people having the same issues and some said that they replaced valve body. It was the least expensive than replacing the transmission.
FIXED: I changed the Valve body and its working without any problems for about a year. I did the work in a weekend.


I bought mine from Revmaxconverter.com Sorry could not post link. but their price its $659 I believe there are other places but at the time it was the cheapest and had good reviews


Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #225
Your transmission is a different type than the CVT transmission this thread is focused on. Sorry to hear about your transmission problems though.
 

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Guess iv'e fallen behind on posting I really thought I had posted the services since the stepper motor replacment. BTW that ended up being a faulty battery that showed up again after a few months always try a new battery if you have cvt problems they are very sensitive to battery condition. But pulling the pan did give me a chance to change the filter.

So just serviced it again at 170k working perfect I have serviced it every 20k since new. next service will be at 190K miles. Im considering pulling it out at 200k and changing the drive belt and all seals. I don't know how much id trust any auto with over 200k on it.

Part of me wants to run it until it dies to see how many miles I can get but that could be in the middle of nowhere. I know the engine will go 300k easy but not sure about the cvt it's gotta wear out someday.
 

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Oil change transformed my CVT completely

Had the car a year now, and its now got 34000 miles on it. reg nov 2001

the CVT was always a bit revvy (more so than I thought it should be) I bought 5 litres of LIQUI MOLY top tec 1400 on Jan the 1st this year (10 months ago) and got around to the oil change yesterday:eeksurprise:
NOTE, this oil is a synthetic and made for CVT with steel belt. It says MINI on the bottle along with a bunch of other brands, it is NOT RED it is a clear colour with a slight yellowish tinge to it.

The story so far, The box had become even more revvy and erratic recently and had developed the issue of the revs actually increasing when taking foot off the accelerator. If travelling at 60 MPH it was always at 3000 plus revs, take foot off pedal at 60 mph and it would climb to 3500 revs........and start to slow the car down with unwanted extra engine braking which is very strange. 30 mph also equalled 3000 revs all the time, never dropping below this. It was also noisy and always had been, Ive never driven another so assumed this was OK.

Im sure there are thousands of accounts of oil change methods, I was only interested in where to drain and where to fill.

Up on the lift, wire brush and clean the drain plug and surrounding area, remove the drain plug, it drained out exactly 3.5 litres of cold RED ATF. I have no idea if this was the correct fluid or not, the car has full main dealer history so it could be. Is the stuff from MINI usually red? its only dye anyway. New washer, refit plug, torque to 30 foot pounds

Battery box out which was a pig as the 10 mm bolt heads have all corroded away to little round studs with no flats, it appears the battery has been venting into the box which has done this damage to the bolt heads.

Now, the refill, this is where my method will differ from others, Im of the opinion that if you take 3.5 litres of stone cold ATF out, you put 3.5 litres of stone cold ATF back in, simple as that, no ****ing about with cycling gears, checking levels, cycling again, checking again. Just add the same as you take out, nothing more nothing less. Sure this method assumes the level was correct already but if there are issues after the change then that is the time to check the level.

So, wire-brush and clean the top filler plug and area, then remove plug and add 3.5 litres in from the top, plug back in with new washer torque to 15 foot pounds, reassemble displaced components and go for a drive.

Chalk and cheese, night and day, the box is instantly and dramatically better, gone is the revvy nature, it travels at 30MPH at 1800 rpm, 60 mph at well under 3000 and the revs drop if you take the foot off the pedal now. It also engages from cold with no bump whereas before it was like someone bumped you from behind when selecting D from cold. It is also much smoother and definitely much quieter which is of course partially down to the fact it isn't now running everywhere at 3000 revs.

Summary, if you have not changed your oil and you are not happy with the gearbox drain it and fill it with new stuff. I used liqui moly toptec 1400 because thats what I could get and I am not silly enough to think for a second that MINI make any oil or that the MINI branded oil is anything special. Ive included a pic of the oil bottle, if ive broken any rules, please delete it as Im not seeking to advertise it, just show folks what I used

Simples innit
 

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Now at 221,000 miles, I serviced it again just after 190k so its due again. I had said I might go through it at 200k just to be safe but it's working fine so I'm just going to keep servicing it.
A couple years ago I repainted the car replaced all the trim and had the window tint redone replaced the head and tail lights so if the cvt does go out I'll be rebuilding it the car is too good not to.
Two other cars I service the cvt on are at 178k and 250k these transmissions can last when serviced.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Glad to hear it's still running. It's good to know they can last, although that still seems to be the minority experience. My rebuilt CVT has around 80,000 on it now and seems to be holding up. I don't own the car anymore, but I passed it on to family and they haven't experienced any problems.
 

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Glad to hear it's still running. It's good to know they can last, although that still seems to be the minority experience. My rebuilt CVT has around 80,000 on it now and seems to be holding up. I don't own the car anymore, but I passed it on to family and they haven't experienced any problems.
Maybe but I wonder how many people actually keep them serviced and started from inspection 1, not at 40,50 or 60k or even higher miles. even if they did an inspection 1 service did it get done again at inspection 2? It just seems like most owners are not keeping up. I maintain a number of CVT cars and none have ever had a problem.
I just read a thread on here with a question about recommended servicing of a CVT even the dealer is full of shit. It is clearly defined to be done at every inspection. Also, that is the maximum miles you should go just like the engine oil it is better to do it more often especially in severe service conditions.
The first change is critical and usually not done on time I blame the dealers for not informing the owners or even doing the service when it was due.
 

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i have a 2007 with 10600 miles and the trans stops shifting after it warms up ? works ok cold
How critical is the battery i purchased a new battery form pep boys a few weeks ago ?
 
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