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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't care about colors. I just want performance.

So--whats the best mix of options on an 05 MCS to optimize performace?

No creature comforts, no style, no cool tunes or temperature.

What do I order to Go Fast?
 

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M5 Extraordinare!
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justbob said:
I don't care about colors. I just want performance.

So--whats the best mix of options on an 05 MCS to optimize performace?

No creature comforts, no style, no cool tunes or temperature.

What do I order to Go Fast?
The JCW Kit
 

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Is this Before or after you mod the car :D

If before then then just like EBMCS03 stated get the JCW kit.

If after then Start with just Basic no Sunroof version. Only options if you want them but are not needed are Fog lights, Air con, Aero kit.
Since its power you want Currently i would say go to one of the Twin charger setups (adding a turbo to the supercharger) comming out by SPI, PSI and others. This way you can add a Boost controller to turn down the power when a Valet parks the car or someone else wants to borrow it for some reason :rolleyes:
From there its the normal mods such as Tires and rims(a must), LSD (unless you get the version that has it already), Flywheel, clutch, Suspension and the Nut behind the Wheel (also a must)
 

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MINI2 No.1
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No options at all. And it depends if you intend to just buy BMW approved stuff (in which case go for john cooper works kit, LSD, possibly DSC, and JCW suspension etc to improve the ride.

If you're going aftermarket, just buy the basic car, and shop around for the various engine and chassis tuning options you have available!

:)
 

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Mugami said:
Is this Before or after you mod the car :D
MOD?? JCW is factory no LOL J/K I know they "mod" the car to put in JCW... but its as close to stock definition as you can get from "ordering" Cuz you can order it now with the car. :)
 

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Mr Buttons!
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Ultimate performance?
DSC, no other options. Take out the rear seats, do other weight reduction modifications, and get either the BBR 275 hp kit, or the MINIMadness 265 hp kit LSD(a must) change the wheels to a 15 or 16 inch racing wheel. That's a start! :cool:

Then there's always getting every heavy option on the car and still burning M3's. How?
By getting the M3 conversion of course! RWD, 333hp. :eek: :eek: :eek:
 

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MINI2 Jedi Master
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justbob said:
I don't care about colors. I just want performance.

So--whats the best mix of options on an 05 MCS to optimize performace?

No creature comforts, no style, no cool tunes or temperature.

What do I order to Go Fast?
Well its common knowledge that Black is the fastest colour and along side the Go-faster stripes it'll be the quickest MCS out there :D

The only thing you can do if your not getting the Works kit is to keep the weight down as other have suggested. ie, no sunroof, light wheels/tires etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Whoa! All great answers!

I'm good to go with the weight and JCW options--pretty straightforward there.

And the DSC/LSD options make sense--although I have DSC now and it's only kicked in a couple of times on the road.

(although I can attest that once when I got stuck on a golf course in the rain, the MCS DEFINITELY had better traction with the DSC on then it had with it off ((I tried it both ways--TRUST ME!)), and I was thinking, "I wonder if LSD would help me out of this jam...?" I'm sure I could have used it. At any rate, I made it out, but why I was there and how I made it out is Another Story.)

Two more questions:

Tin top versus convertible? (Frame flexing? Weight? Rollover protections?)

Why 15" or 16" wheels, rather than 17" or 18"? Larger wheels let you run larger tires with bigger footprints, but they weigh more. Are we talking traction versus unsprung weight?

Let me know!

justbob
 

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justbob said:
Two more questions:

Tin top versus convertible? (Frame flexing? Weight? Rollover protections?)

Why 15" or 16" wheels, rather than 17" or 18"? Larger wheels let you run larger tires with bigger footprints, but they weigh more. Are we talking traction versus unsprung weight?

Let me know!

justbob

If your are concerned about performance then a tin top the only one for you. 18" wheels will give you better grip but I found they are a compromise on the cars insanely fast speed in which it changes direction and general agility. Also 17" and 18" are noticably slower because of the added weight. IMO, get a tin top with 16" wheels and if your after more performance then the new and improved works kit would be the next natural step. Although it is very expensive you will retain most of the value when it comes to resale - unlike any other kit.
 

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justbob said:
Whoa! All great answers!

Tin top versus convertible? (Frame flexing? Weight? Rollover protections?)

Why 15" or 16" wheels, rather than 17" or 18"? Larger wheels let you run larger tires with bigger footprints, but they weigh more. Are we talking traction versus unsprung weight?

Let me know!

justbob
Tin top definitely, lighter and stiffer.

The larger 17" or 18" wheels only offer "better" traction because they are wider than the 16"x6.5" or 15"x5.5" factory wheels. If you go aftermarket and find lightweight 7" or 7.5" wide wheels in either 15" or 16" diameters you will be able to mount just as wide a tire and the reduced diameter will offer lighter weight, reduced gyroscopic effect, reduced flywheel effect, all good things if preformance is your goal.

Are you going class racing or just hanging about on the streets? If you are going autocross racing then you are pretty much limited to 16"x6.5" or 17"x7" wheels. The lighter the wheel and tire combination the better. The stickier a tire you get the better.

If you are not racing then there are advantages to running smaller wheels such as 15"x7" or 15"x7.5" with low profile tires say 215/40x15 or 225/40x15. This would lower the cars center of gravity and shorten the gearing. Offering higher cornering speeds and quicker transitions, and better acceleration.

Again, this is if you are concerned about preformance and not "looks".

If you want to "look" fast go get some 18"x7" wheels and some 215/35x18 tires.
 

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scott_roberts said:
Go aftermarket. Pulley, exhaust, intake, ECU, Cylinder head, etc. Approximately $3,700 US for those mods vs. $5,000 for JCW. JCW is nice because it's a complete system. Just a bit overpriced in my opinion.
I agree with this. Though the JCW does give you some head work, the above mods will get you better performance in the long run, or at least just as good.
 
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