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Discussion Starter #1
I have now become the owner of a 2012 JCW hatch. Mine is a BRG version, 25k miles with full leather. I went for this one as it was a main dealer approved buy as I was wary of the 'death rattle' issue. Shame this '12 engine version still appears to be in the potential victim section.

It looks like the original owner interior options were limited on this one (gutting it has no bluetooth but may look at something like a parrot system after doing a bit of research).

The engine and chassis more than make up for the above. It's happy bimbling about at the speed limit or going for a 'spirited' drive. The sport button is pretty good fun as well.

I'm very fickle when it comes to cars, rarely keep them more than 8-12 months so we'll see how this one gets on!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Apologies, My original post that I added too was in the Cooper s part of the forum as that's what I was looking at then.

As I bought a JCW, I thought it may be more appropriate in this part of the forum.

Would you like a double thanks for the additional post as well?? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, an interesting weekend.

Wouldn't start Friday morning, misfiring and poor running, cold morning here and it's struggled on previous cold mornings as well. So quick call to the dealer that I bought it from and they asked me to call mini assist. Engineer was at my house within the hour but sods law, it started first time. Luckily it then had a grumble so the engineer agreed to take it to the dealer.
Many calls from mini assist and the car hire place and by the end of the day I had a loaner mini sitting on my drive.
Today the dealer calls me and says they can't diagnose any faults but they have ordered a new HPFP which should be here in the morning. They then said they'd deliver it back to me, hopefully tomorrow evening.
So, disapointed that there's been a problem with my car, but can't fault the service from the dealer and mini assist.
 

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Hopefully the new pump will sort it then. Remember to run it on the good go go juice and stay away from the supermarket pish ;)
 

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Hopefully the new pump will sort it then. Remember to run it on the good go go juice and stay away from the supermarket pish ;)
I have been running it on the Tesco super unleaded, only because it's the most convienient, everything else is miles away.

I thought the super unleaded would be fine? Even from the supermarket? No?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tesco is 99 octane so it will probably be good stuff. I don't use it as I'm a BP man myself. I like the colour Green :)
Out of interest, how much more expensive is the BP super over the normal? I think the esso super I put in once was 10p a litre more expensive, whereas tesco super is only about 5/6p a litre more than their normal.
 

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Well, 9 months later, and it's still here!! I had the Parrot Mki9200 bluetooth system fitted, which I think is brilliant. The only issue, was the fitting, I didn't do it myself but apparently it was a total ballache as the dash needed to come off. I didn't notice it straight away (actually not for a long while) but the 'secret' glovebox now doesn't work properly :(.

Still really enjoy driving it, averaging around 35 mpg. I'm looking forward to next week though, as I'm finally ditching the abysmal run flats, for four Goodyear F1's (215/45zr17 91Y's). Can't wait. I'm hoping the ride as well as the handling will be so much better.
 

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Well, 9 months later, and it's still here!! I had the Parrot Mki9200 bluetooth system fitted, which I think is brilliant. The only issue, was the fitting, I didn't do it myself but apparently it was a total ballache as the dash needed to come off. I didn't notice it straight away (actually not for a long while) but the 'secret' glovebox now doesn't work properly :(.

Still really enjoy driving it, averaging around 35 mpg. I'm looking forward to next week though, as I'm finally ditching the abysmal run flats, for four Goodyear F1's (215/45zr17 91Y's). Can't wait. I'm hoping the ride as well as the handling will be so much better.
Hi, i'm new to the forum, i'm after a 2010 - 2012 model. what is the "dreaded rattle" you describe? is there something i need to look for when i go buy an R56 JCW?

Cheers,
Matt
 

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Search for 'death rattle', or timing chain, or timing chain tensioner, or timing issues on this or any other MINI forum, and you'll see many multiple threads on the issues that several incarnations of the engine have.

Bottom line: Change your oil every 5-6k (miles) - ignore the manufacturer recommendation of 10-12k and use DECENT oil that surpasses LL04 standard (5w-30) - change the timing kit every 50k regardless of how you drive. If your model has done close to, or over, a 50k multiple and you can't see any service record that states the timing kit has been replaced - change the kit!

The chain stretches past the point where the tensioner can adjust it and the timing goes to hell in a handcart. The tensioner can break, or wear away, long before the stated interval. poor quality oil or excessive intervals between changes will exacerbate this wear.

Ignore the death rattle at the peril of destroying the engine.

Check the service history with care.....

Good Luck!
 

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Search for 'death rattle', or timing chain, or timing chain tensioner, or timing issues on this or any other MINI forum, and you'll see many multiple threads on the issues that several incarnations of the engine have.

Bottom line: Change your oil every 5-6k (miles) - ignore the manufacturer recommendation of 10-12k and use DECENT oil that surpasses LL04 standard (5w-30) - change the timing kit every 50k regardless of how you drive. If your model has done close to, or over, a 50k multiple and you can't see any service record that states the timing kit has been replaced - change the kit!

The chain stretches past the point where the tensioner can adjust it and the timing goes to hell in a handcart. The tensioner can break, or wear away, long before the stated interval. poor quality oil or excessive intervals between changes will exacerbate this wear.

Ignore the death rattle at the peril of destroying the engine.

Check the service history with care.....

Good Luck!

Thank you for your advice, is this something still prevalent on the newer' engine "N18" is it... 2012 models have?

I have a friend with a ramp and have always changed my oil twice a year. IS the timing chain kit replacement expensive? could it be done with basic tooling and a ramp?

thanks in advance

Matt
 

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Timing chain kits can be found on eBay for around £200 in the UK. I can't speak to their quality as I am not a mechanic, a proper newbie on car DIY, and haven't changed mine yet, but reading (with some trepidation) the many responses on this, what I think I can state is that cheap tensioner kits will always let you down. Main Stealers will give you Bimmer parts for a King's ransom but adequate quality spares can be found cheaper on the W3.

As to the actual task itself - I would definitely look for Mike1967's many, many posts on here advising great care and attention (Quite a few other posters too, but from memory, Mike has responded most on this). From what Mike writes, you only get one chance to get the timing right without starting all over, and stability / immobility of the moving parts when setting the chain is absolutely critical. It is a fiddly job, I would get a trained Mini / Peugeot mechanic to do my 2010 MCS (Prince engine). And I'll probably look for recommendations on here first , as it seems to be a classical case of experience over training for these engines.

Tools - see the other posts on that, but I would want a torque wrench and the (good quality) special timing tool or I wouldn't dream of starting.

Later models - Anyone out there care to comment?
 
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