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Whining noise once warmed up

3290 Views 20 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  JTownPBX
I've had my MCS Clubman about 2 weeks and I've noticed that there is a whining noise, it's like a distant American police siren, at about 2000-3000rpm, and only once warmed up - or at least it's louder when warmed up. I can't decide whether it's normal or not. Performance seems good and I can't hear it above 3500rpm - possibly due to general engine noise. It can be heard when stationary and in neural at similar revs, so I thought turbo, but I guess it could be something else that comes into play when it's warm.

I generally don't notice it as I usually do short journeys, <3 miles.

Many Thanks
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Not really a lot of information here. Yes it could be a turbo bearing. It could also be a alternator bearing. 2nd gen Mini Coopers do have a revision alternator that was released somewhat early one available through different propitiatory sources. But is a mini cooper component and not revision because of increases in amperage or anything power rating related.
Though it could be in it's circuitry.
All around good diagnosis 2bags! :)
Bro ....it could be almost anything and while my response prob don't ,make you happy....thats the reality...look for simplest first like belt and tensioner, how's that "friction wheel tracking? etc....you will get to the expensive shit soon enough....or ...as you do only short trips jus wait till it locks up or packs in....you'll save a Helluva lotta time and energy by just waiting for the problem to come out itself.
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Just been out for a blast and the car seems to pull well across the rev range. The noise is still there so I took this video of it, I can't really figure out where it's coming from, I thought turbo, but not sure. Does it sound normal?
link here
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Sounds well within the bounds of NORMAL....I did hear the thermatic fan come in,,...I don't think that's what year on about...maybe that makes ya feel better...LOL...again it sounded normal to me.
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hahaha I was looking at yer pic ...scratching my head...something weird ..the body seemed distorted....oops Clubman not hatch
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Also found this...
Pipe Machine Nut Silver Engine


Looks like the hose should be pushed further on than that, shouldn't it? I've give it a go once it stops raining.
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Also found this...
View attachment 279571

Looks like the hose should be pushed further on than that, shouldn't it? I've give it a go once it stops raining.
Yes all the way upto the ridge.
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Yes all the way upto the ridge.
That car shouldn't even run like that....guess you're a lucky kind of guy....and there is still a seal there. I noticed when the engine rocks under load it tugs on that intake pipe...that sissy ass clamp BMW put on there....get a wider one like the one the pressure side so you can at least tighten it.....cheers!
I put the hose back on properly, took it for quite a long drive, but it made no difference to anything so, yes, I guess it must have been sealed sufficiently as it was.

Engine Automotive engine part Automotive fuel system Metal Pipe


Here's the annoying noise from inside the car...
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Is the clutch and gearbox still feel normal?
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Is the clutch and gearbox still feel normal?
Yes completely normal, the noise is present when stationary in neutral.
Sorry I could only hear the noise properly when the accelerator was used in both of the videos.

Is the noise there when the car is warmed up and stationary or only sounds when the car is moving or even when the accelerator is pressed whilst stationary?

Alternator / belts maybe?
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It's only there when accelerator is pressed, noticeable over 2000 rpm, it doesn't really matter whether I'm moving or not. In fact I should have just waited until I got home to record the vid - would have been a bit safer!
Alternator was replaced in 2016 - hopefully still OK.
Sounds good to me...Note you just bought this car...I don't think you\ve had it long enough to distinguish what's weird and what's not. I would be a lot more concerned about "new" noises...for example I just had some extensive work done on mine including replacing the gearbox...immediately afterward from the very first startup my starter makes a noise it never has...the engine always fires immediately and still does However now there's a very distinct short whipping noise when the starter releases....I've heard this same noise on other totally different vehicles in the past and it has always been a starter alignment issue......I'm very irritated
Sounds good to me...Note you just bought this car...I don't think you\ve had it long enough to distinguish what's weird and what's not. I would be a lot more concerned about "new" noises...for example I just had some extensive work done on mine including replacing the gearbox...immediately afterward from the very first startup my starter makes a noise it never has...the engine always fires immediately and still does However now there's a very distinct short whipping noise when the starter releases....I've heard this same noise on other totally different vehicles in the past and it has always been a starter alignment issue......I'm very irritated
Thanks for the advice, yeah you're right, I'll give it few months then get it serviced at my trusted independent, in fact he did the alternator replacement a few years ago. He will know whether its an issue. Cheers
Get a long screwdriver or something similar and place it near the source with your ear and hand on the other end. That way your should be able to locate it. There's a good chance it might be the bearing in the belt tensioner. I replaced mine twice..
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Thanks ...I have a "new noise" coming from that area mainly while cold...nonetheless...failures don't always manifest in the same way...and while I replace the tensioner couple yrs ago it would not surprise me one bit...thanks again
It sounds are indirect over the engine. That ticking sound does not occur on my mini cooper at all. Now what you can live with; it's probably in good shape.
Hose did not change anything I heard no pop off valve during deceleration.
I would check for play in the turbo. The pin wheel while the car is turned OFF. A tinny bit of play is usual and nothing to fret over. If it is moving in and out up and down. Your turbo is worn out.
I say that because it sounds kind of like someone has a hand brake on the crankshaft where it slows down and not really flutters down. What the RPM like?
The electronic blow off valve I would check second they become old and worn out. I would replace this spring and put the electronic housing that this spring goes in back on the turbo charger.


Then I would pull off the upper heat shield and get a better look at the vacuum turbo actuator arm or Rod and see if it is bent. The vacuum actuator housing does not look like anything does not look like anything special. But that one has a real rhino naugahyde (L.O.L. not real naugahyde!) of a diaphram in there. And under heat and stress and pressures of opening the wastegate door can actually bend.
So I would check to see if the rod is bent.
After that I would address that timing chain or at least inspect it at this point by removing the valve cover and checking the upper guide rails as well as the lowers with a flashlight to see if they are broken or in distressed.
If everything where o k I would put the valve cover back on using:


As far as the starter My recommendation is to replace it with a Bosch

Bosch (OE Reman) SR0466X Starter - Mini | 0001106018090 0986018837 12411489995 12411517328 You get a good return on the core for a little over 100 dollars U.S. provided your present one is a SR0466X like the mini coopers came with stock.
Whipping and winding sound does not sound right and I have not heard yet about an issue where they would need to have shims put in them to align.

The helpful thing is that if it is the rod you can bend it back out with a heavy bushing pick or even a crowbar very very slowely. Needing to be un bent due to the actuator arm sticking.
And that would clear up my hypothesis of the engine sounding like it has a handbrake on the crankshaft. When the wastegate door fails to open after building boost it will continue to shove air into the engine.
Making it rev down slower. When the foot is off the pedal.
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It sounds are indirect over the engine. That ticking sound does not occur on my mini cooper at all. Now what you can live with; it's probably in good shape.
Hose did not change anything I heard no pop off valve during deceleration.
I would check for play in the turbo. The pin wheel while the car is turned OFF. A tinny bit of play is usual and nothing to fret over. If it is moving in and out up and down. Your turbo is worn out.
I say that because it sounds kind of like someone has a hand brake on the crankshaft where it slows down and not really flutters down. What the RPM like?
The electronic blow off valve I would check second they become old and worn out. I would replace this spring and put the electronic housing that this spring goes in back on the turbo charger.


Then I would pull off the upper heat shield and get a better look at the vacuum turbo actuator arm or Rod and see if it is bent. The vacuum actuator housing does not look like anything does not look like anything special. But that one has a real rhino naugahyde (L.O.L. not real naugahyde!) of a diaphram in there. And under heat and stress and pressures of opening the wastegate door can actually bend.
So I would check to see if the rod is bent.
After that I would address that timing chain or at least inspect it at this point by removing the valve cover and checking the upper guide rails as well as the lowers with a flashlight to see if they are broken or in distressed.
If everything where o k I would put the valve cover back on using:


As far as the starter My recommendation is to replace it with a Bosch

Bosch (OE Reman) SR0466X Starter - Mini | 0001106018090 0986018837 12411489995 12411517328 You get a good return on the core for a little over 100 dollars U.S. provided your present one is a SR0466X like the mini coopers came with stock.
Whipping and winding sound does not sound right and I have not heard yet about an issue where they would need to have shims put in them to align.

The helpful thing is that if it is the rod you can bend it back out with a heavy bushing pick or even a crowbar very very slowely. Needing to be un bent due to the actuator arm sticking.
And that would clear up my hypothesis of the engine sounding like it has a handbrake on the crankshaft. When the wastegate door fails to open after building boost it will continue to shove air into the engine.
Making it rev down slower. When the foot is off the pedal.
Thanks for all the info, I will start to look into the suggestions as soon as the weather warms up a bit (snowing here at the moment!)
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