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MINI2 No.1
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I'm thinking of attempting to retro fit the puddle lights in the MINI, and I'd like some advice on a neat and tidy way of getting wires from the footwell lights into the door cards.

I'd also like really basic advice like the best ways to splice and get power from the lights, and what type of wires etc. to use. Talk to me like an idiot if you must, as I need help on this!

:D
 

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Paul Mullett said:
I'm thinking of attempting to retro fit the puddle lights in the MINI, and I'd like some advice on a neat and tidy way of getting wires from the footwell lights into the door cards.

I'd also like really basic advice like the best ways to splice and get power from the lights, and what type of wires etc. to use. Talk to me like an idiot if you must, as I need help on this!

:D


OK here you go .first you must remove both doors while standing on one leg and singing the German nation anthem,then you must put you left leg in your left leg out..............need I go on?? :D :D :D
 

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Rallye On Dude!
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Moss Motors used to provide two plates, that have 4 speing loaded bittons. You mount them in the door and frame near the hinge, and when the door is closed the buttons touch, and current can flow. However the connection is broken when the door is open, but you could use a capacitor to be charged up when the door was closed and use the lack of current on the witch button to energize the circuit and light a high brightness LED as the puddle light.

I can cjeck my catalog when I get home from work
 

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Yknow I was just installing dynamat in my door this weekend and stuck my head in there and realized it's pretty easy to get to the back of the grommet where the wires come in. I bet this would be very easy. Yes, you should have no problem running a positive wire from the footwell light the short distance through the existing rubber door grommet/harness and into the door. Then I guess cutting the hole in the bottom of the door panel to mount the new light in. Doesn't seem like it would be too tough.
 

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MINI2 No.1
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Discussion Starter #6
The Moss plate idea sounds interesting, be good to learn more about that.

For the "basic" wiring, what type of wire do I need (is that a stupid question)? I've never actually purchased wire, I guess it has different ratings for power etc?
 

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MINI2 No.1
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Discussion Starter #7
jwardell said:
Yknow I was just installing dynamat in my door this weekend and stuck my head in there and realized it's pretty easy to get to the back of the grommet where the wires come in. I bet this would be very easy. Yes, you should have no problem running a positive wire from the footwell light the short distance through the existing rubber door grommet/harness and into the door. Then I guess cutting the hole in the bottom of the door panel to mount the new light in. Doesn't seem like it would be too tough.
That was my plan.

I'm assuming I'll have to completely remove the door cards to do this?
 

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Amiga 500 to PS3 20 Years
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Paul Mullett said:
The Moss plate idea sounds interesting, be good to learn more about that.

For the "basic" wiring, what type of wire do I need (is that a stupid question)? I've never actually purchased wire, I guess it has different ratings for power etc?
The easiest thing to do is to buy wire that looks the same as the wiring that already exists for the footwell lights. The internal wire thickness is the most important thing (called guage) and making sure it will handle the amount of amps you're gonna stick down it.

To be honest I'm no expert myself but the job you're looking at is pretty simple, although it is going to involve you lying upside down with your head in the footwell and your feet out the door to feed the wire to the grommit. Head rush time :D

My advise is to stop the footwell lights from lighting when the door is opened by holding the roof light switch down for 5 secs. If you don't, you will find that the footwell lights are blinding when you're working down there. Even better stick some tape over the bottom part of the light which will still allow some light to reach the footwell from the top of the light. Thus allowing you to see where you're working. Sorted :)
 

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Don't worry too much about the wire...even speaker wire will work. You're not dealing with a lot of current. Note how small the other wires are. (It is more important for high current items like stereo amps) If you want to be picky it's more the casing to concentrate on, standing up to temperatures even fire. But again, probably anything will be fine.18-20 guage should be fine.

No need to cover the bulbs while working--just remove them :) (Especially if you will be soldering the wire!) If you are wrapping the wire, be sure to electrical tape any exposed connections.

I might try it all myself if only I saw a true use to the puddle lights. Hmm but maybe some LEDs in the door handles like the 05s...OH GREAT now you have my mind thinking! :) Perhaps in the spring when it is warm again.
 

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Josh,
I am confused by your advice - but I respect your skills so maybe I have missed something?

From my experience, the wiring from the door goes to a connector which plugs into a mating connector in the car body. There is no continuous rubber grommet/tube to push a wire through from door to car.
When I tried this to run new speaker wires, I had to get the plug & socket apart (very difficult without removing the door), then drill holes to allow new wires to be shoved through both parts and along the rubber tube into the door.
I did achieve it, but I would not suggest attempting it unless you are REALLY serious about lights!
 

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MINI2 No.1
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Discussion Starter #11
GBMINI said:
Josh,
I am confused by your advice - but I respect your skills so maybe I have missed something?

From my experience, the wiring from the door goes to a connector which plugs into a mating connector in the car body. There is no continuous rubber grommet/tube to push a wire through from door to car.
When I tried this to run new speaker wires, I had to get the plug & socket apart (very difficult without removing the door), then drill holes to allow new wires to be shoved through both parts and along the rubber tube into the door.
I did achieve it, but I would not suggest attempting it unless you are REALLY serious about lights!
That's scary!

:eek:
 

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POP..POPPOP..POP
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GBMINI said:
Josh,
I am confused by your advice - but I respect your skills so maybe I have missed something?

From my experience, the wiring from the door goes to a connector which plugs into a mating connector in the car body. There is no continuous rubber grommet/tube to push a wire through from door to car.
When I tried this to run new speaker wires, I had to get the plug & socket apart (very difficult without removing the door), then drill holes to allow new wires to be shoved through both parts and along the rubber tube into the door.
I did achieve it, but I would not suggest attempting it unless you are REALLY serious about lights!
Paul, mikeythemini shows how to fit wires this way on his site, in his mirror DIY
http://www.newministuff.com/diy_folding_mirrors.htm

I've done it before on other cars, fiddly but do-able. Just take your time and drill carefully.
Don't forget we need pics of you doing this :p
 

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Rallye On Dude!
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Paul Mullett said:
The Moss plate idea sounds interesting, be good to learn more about that.

For the "basic" wiring, what type of wire do I need (is that a stupid question)? I've never actually purchased wire, I guess it has different ratings for power etc?
Paul, Sorry it took me a while to get back on line tonight ....

As far as wiring sizes, below is the IEEE standard for current carying capacity. If you don't know how much current the circuit will carry, find the fuse carring the circuit, then multiply that value by 133% and that is a goo number to work with. For example if all the lights on the circuit are fused with a 10Amp Fuse
if you figure 13Amps maximum you will have overkilled the circuit by a bunch, but you will be very safe. So use the Gage wire that will handle 13 Amps, or 14 Gage. Use Copper multistrand, as it will flex with out breaking.

Maximum steady-state load (A) Minimum wire size (AWG)
30 < Load < 40 No. 8
20 < Load < 30 No. 10
15 < Load < 20 No. 12
10 < Load < 15 No. 14
7 < Load < 10 No. 16
Load < 7 No. 18

Regarding the Jamb=Tac connectors, I was wrong Moss doesn't carry them Victoria British does, but they don't sell through the web, so I found that Eastwood does, they are about $30 apiece, and you will need two per door. These are 4 wire version, they also make a two wire version which may be cheaper. You can order these on line at http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...emType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=2968&keyword=60134

but I these will break contact when the door is opened, and that is when you want them to work. Probably better for running the stereo to the doors neatly.
 

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Ian I was unaware of that connector.

That like to mikey's site does illustrate the process perfectly though, and it doesn't look very difficult to me, although again it may be a bit much for less-than-useful lighting.

(I have to consider this for those remote auto-up windows, where he swore there was no way to run wires to the door to install the circuit there instead of hacking the complex in-dash harness)

If you plan on your puddle lamps taking 13A, I ask what stadium you plan on lighting! I would assume at most 2-amp, much less. With LEDs, think 20mA. 18-22 would be more than enough.
 

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Rallye On Dude!
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jwardell said:
If you plan on your puddle lamps taking 13A, I ask what stadium you plan on lighting! I would assume at most 2-amp, much less. With LEDs, think 20mA. 18-22 would be more than enough.
I was just making the math easy in my head, and thinking the entire interior light circuit was fused with a 10A. :D
As far as the LEDS go, I just saw some of the new Hi intensity LEDS and at 225 to 300 mA you can illuminate a reasonable football stadium. I think these are used on the high intensity TV screens, and they are cheap in the states, like about $8 each

I have the link at home if any one wants them.
 

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phoggberg said:
I was just making the math easy in my head, and thinking the entire interior light circuit was fused with a 10A. :D
As far as the LEDS go, I just saw some of the new Hi intensity LEDS and at 225 to 300 mA you can illuminate a reasonable football stadium. I think these are used on the high intensity TV screens, and they are cheap in the states, like about $8 each

I have the link at home if any one wants them.
Paul, have you had a price quoted for the lights etc?? I quite fancy doing this one myself!

:)
 

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It's true for the entire circuit, but you'll be connecting in parallel to the footwell light, and only carrying the current of the puddle lamp.

I got LED bulbs from autolumination.com. Good selection and quality, good prices (US of course). These would probably be good for puddle and handle lights. They're LED arrays of reasonable brightness.

I have a headlamp that uses 3 regular white LEDs that is plenty bright for most purposes and runs 200 hours off 3 AA batteries (I've had it for a year and it's not even slightly dim)...then you change it to one very super bright LED...battery time falls to 20 hours! Almost the range of a car headlight. But with a bulb those times would be a tenth of those numbers. LED technology has come so far, I love it.
 
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