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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
THIS IS A LONG POST I APOLOGISE

GOOD MORNING WONDERFUL HUMANS!


My mini has started making some pretty foul noises and im hoping someone here may have some experience / further knowlege than myself.
Ive got a 56 plate thats just hit 80,000 miles. Ive already dealt with the common chain tensioner issue and given it a nice service (plugs , oil , filter etc) but now its making a whole new kind of harmony
😂
😅

I know im asking alot from this post but if your advice helps me i promise i will mkae it up to you somehow. If you know of any forum posts etc that might guide me that would also mean the world.
I cant afford to take her to a mini specialist , im never going to a normal garage again (Ive had some bad expriences) and also i genuinely enjoy working on/ learning about whatever car i own (Unless its bolt extracting...)
Its hard to describe the sounds so i have included a link to some videos i recorded over the past couple of days , both issues have come about at the same time so im hoping its a single cause.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rNdbKAzZfnkDi9Nq8
STRANGE NOISE NO.1
I somewhat suspect i have a failing water pump:
Its hard to capture on camera but you can hear a sort of fluttering sound that becomes amplified inline with me pressing the throttle but it does also flutter at idle, it sounds like its coming from an area very close to the drivers side front wheel ; about the same height aswell; not like the previous chain tensioner related rattle that came from near the top of the engine. It does sound quite fluidy (If thats even a word) not just a straight tinny like rattle.

STRANGE NOISE NO.2:
It now sounds like a diesel - not the peppy little engine it did before- the head cover also seems to be vibrating excessivly ; for reference you can see the lead for the coil pack vibrating pretty hard at idle.

STRANGE NOISE NO.3:
Sometimes when ive just started it, especially when cold it will make loud whine when im just moving off but then this goes away after about a minute ; this also came about at around the same time.

STRANGE NOISE NO.4:
Some times i can also hear a heavy rattle like it did before with the worn chain tensioner, again this happens when the car is cold. You can only hear it in one of the videos.
The only other similar sounding issue ive come across online is a failing belt tensioner damper but ive not been able to find much information about this or what a failed one would sound like.

I was planning on servicing the supercharger in the next couple of weeks so i will replace the waterpump when i do that anyway. but i though it might be worth asking you beautiful people before trolling the internet again.
THANKYOU
🙌
🙏
❤


EDIT: More videos with a better camera |
COLD START : Cold start
RUNNING WARM: Warm
 

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I recommend doing a compression test, rent the tool if you have to. Check for coolant in the oil or vice versa. The videos sound like there is an exhaust leak, perhaps even a blown head gasket.
 

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Diagnosing noises by written descriptions on a forum is guess work, I’d take the car to a garage. BTW the water pump is on the end of the supercharger so not on the drivers side of the engine, infact the opposit.
 

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those clips are all about the chain end of your engine imo,

to test your pump simply observe the flow of coolant back to the expansion tank, it should be present all the time,

the charger PTO when it fails is more of a scraping sound, a dry noise which eventually stops the pump, it can be heard using a long screwdriver to the ear from the output horn, or sometimes from 15ft away anyway, if servicing the charger I'd just look at the pump and check feel of the bearings and appearance of the impeller plus for leak traces at the tell tale points, clean the housing and refit it, people keep taking good original pumps off that can outlast a charger and insist on fitting some cheap pumps that you might be fixing again in a couple of years, where an OEM original has every chance of remaining reliable for some time,

the crank damper is on the list of possible items, with the belt off, the belt surface might be able to be pulled away from the body a bit but this is more about the facelift cars, the early car it can go a bit compliant with age and can throw belts, they're visually different,

there is a momentary squeak on start up in one clip which suggests a worn belt or low tension worth looking into

the noises are unacceptable, these motors should run quiet, you could have chain wear and a chain guide breakage possibly, the whine noise on start up can be oil pump related, as can some tensioner behaviour, really the first thing I'd do is take the rocker cover off and try to see down the guides especially the front one, or just take it out, you'll possibly discover the wear layer disintegrated, bits can be lodged behind the timing case, and some in the sump or oil pick up starving the pump or just making a noise as it's sucked toward the gauze screen perhaps, even some small parts compressed into the chain links which at every rotation can appear as that flutter type sound, hard to determine precisely but it can go hand in hand with this problem, so the sump off will allow retrieval of some debris, then I'd look at the oil pump, clean it out, check for scoring, renew the gears, or renew the unit, new chain, and also while access is good, renew the big end shells just because they'll be worn. Parts are easily affordable.

sorry but post #2 is so far off the mark, it isn't an exhaust leak, it's mechanical noise that no compression test will ever help with and a head gasket could not cause,

pic shows the section of guide that is more common
WP_20200826_118.jpg

guide section on another one
WP_20201026_065.jpg

oil pump, note the lubrication channel to the outer gear which you can find partially blocked,
WP_20200826_159.jpg

which contributes to this scoring fyi
WP_20200826_166.jpg

guide debris wedged into chain link
WP_20200826_098.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@
those clips are all about the chain end of your engine imo,

to test your pump simply observe the flow of coolant back to the expansion tank, it should be present all the time,

the charger PTO when it fails is more of a scraping sound, a dry noise which eventually stops the pump, it can be heard using a long screwdriver to the ear from the output horn, or sometimes from 15ft away anyway, if servicing the charger I'd just look at the pump and check feel of the bearings and appearance of the impeller plus for leak traces at the tell tale points, clean the housing and refit it, people keep taking good original pumps off that can outlast a charger and insist on fitting some cheap pumps that you might be fixing again in a couple of years, where an OEM original has every chance of remaining reliable for some time,

the crank damper is on the list of possible items, with the belt off, the belt surface might be able to be pulled away from the body a bit but this is more about the facelift cars, the early car it can go a bit compliant with age and can throw belts, they're visually different,

there is a momentary squeak on start up in one clip which suggests a worn belt or low tension worth looking into

the noises are unacceptable, these motors should run quiet, you could have chain wear and a chain guide breakage possibly, the whine noise on start up can be oil pump related, as can some tensioner behaviour, really the first thing I'd do is take the rocker cover off and try to see down the guides especially the front one, or just take it out, you'll possibly discover the wear layer disintegrated, bits can be lodged behind the timing case, and some in the sump or oil pick up starving the pump or just making a noise as it's sucked toward the gauze screen perhaps, even some small parts compressed into the chain links which at every rotation can appear as that flutter type sound, hard to determine precisely but it can go hand in hand with this problem, so the sump off will allow retrieval of some debris, then I'd look at the oil pump, clean it out, check for scoring, renew the gears, or renew the unit, new chain, and also while access is good, renew the big end shells just because they'll be worn. Parts are easily affordable.

sorry but post #2 is so far off the mark, it isn't an exhaust leak, it's mechanical noise that no compression test will ever help with and a head gasket could not cause,

pic shows the section of guide that is more common
View attachment 281227

guide section on another one
View attachment 281228

oil pump, note the lubrication channel to the outer gear which you can find partially blocked,
View attachment 281229

which contributes to this scoring fyi
View attachment 281230

guide debris wedged into chain link
View attachment 281231

I cannot thankyou enough for your response !! Is this something you do for a living ?

You seem to have a working understanding that i doubt few who arent specialists in the trade have.

I had almost no reply anywhere else and every one else suggests that any unusual engine noise is the either then chain tensioner or head gasket 🙃 which as far as im aware It displays no symptoms of.

If you dont live too far from kent i would definitely be interested in coming down and paying you to have a look for me, or if you have anyone you could recommend that would be an absolute blessing?
All i need is a fairly accurate diagnosis and i can - with the help of some friends - fix most issues. Ive swallowd my pride before , i was only 17 and took my old 58 plate cooper s to a garage that diagnosed it and did the work just for the issue to come back next week, i then took it to another proper local garage who gave me another completely different diagnosis, i then went for my MOT the next week they gave me another completely different one 😑😑😑😑😑😑; Hundreds and hundreds of pounds down and my car was in a worse state than when it started ; genuinley cheaper to buy a whole new car than let halfords play around with it.

If this was my weekend car i would assume the worst and order all the tools and parts and prep myself for a big overhaul for the weekend but i have 3 days until ive got to start driving it again. (Unless i can get insured on a freinds vehicle)

TODAYS JOBS: Taking your advice,
  1. Im going to remove the rocker cover and check for any debris aswell as inspect the chain itself: If there is debris and i can get it out then do you think i should be alright to drive her around at very low revs for another 100 miles or so before i have the time to overhaul everything else ?
  2. Im going to take your advice and keep an eye on the coolant circulation just to tick that off the list: i just remebered the water pump being on the drivers side of my previous mini and the noise i was hearing is exaclty what id predict a dodgy water pump to sound like: Should have looked at some engine diagrams.
  3. Im going to take a screwdriver to the output horn and listen for the scraping but shes been driving better than ever really despite the rattle/ flutter and the diesel sounding compressions noise
  4. Order everything i need for me to do a massive overhaul: All the pulleys , belts , specific tools. (Oil pumps are a bit pricey and i assume i need to remove the crank casing before being able to assess that but i may just order it and return it if its not needed)
Do you think the fact its sounding like a diesel (I think people call it 'higher than normal compression noise') would be a by product of the other issues ?

The only other problem parts ive heard mentioned:
the supercharger belt tensioner damper : Lohen Supercharger Belt Tensioner Damper For MINI R53 & R52
The drive belt tensioner pulley damper which i believe you have to buy the whole kit for : R53 Alta Adjustable Tensioner

Whilst im in there jobs?:
I may make a seperate post about this but do you have any more suggestions of things i should do whilst ive got everything taken apart and loads of access?
Before i do anything performance related im trying to give the car a service of a life time.

Opinion on scan tools ?

Im still trying to get my head around scan tools, code readers etc etc but would having something like this save me time locating the problem ?



Again i cant thank you enough, your knowlege is literal gold to me and i wish i could make it up to you somehow 🙌 I dont have much but if you want any kind of a favour i would love to be able to help you out in some way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@

I recommend doing a compression test, rent the tool if you have to. Check for coolant in the oil or vice versa. The videos sound like there is an exhaust leak, perhaps even a blown head gasket.
Im going to do this anyway, can get a tool for £20 and do a quick test. Yeah the exhaust is a bit buggered but i dont smell any burning or fumes in the engine bay/ around the cabi.n , its probably just a worn mount or something. sounds fine when i hold the muffler up.

Have had head gasket issues in the past on different cars , its not off my list of things to check and i will replace it when everythings apart but these symptoms/ issuesd are quite different to a blown gasket.

Thankyou for taking the time to respond to me. All the other groups im in just talk about what aero parts to buy and how they want to kill all chrome 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Diagnosing noises by written descriptions on a forum is guess work, I’d take the car to a garage. BTW the water pump is on the end of the supercharger so not on the drivers side of the engine, infact the opposit.
I agree, ive tried to link as many detailed videos as i can without being overwhelming but its still not the same as having someone actually look at it. If you know any good mini specialists in the south east / near kent please let me know , Ive swallowed my pride and been to garages multiple times in the past and had a different diagnosis from each of them , i gave up doing it myself and let them fix the problem and would have it come back no more than a week or 2 later.
 

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no problem,

yes, I work on these only at home currently for just mechanical repairs or performance related stuff, engine/drivetrain/suspension/brakes, certain parts etc. Also on MiniTorque as CarsOrBikes, or fb (@WirralMini)

sadly I'm not near you but in Wirral, that said I'd still be happy to look at the car, I already have people that travel here, I either take them or pick them up from Chester station or local Wirral one, sometimes I might lend them a car if comprehensively insured etc, if I have something.

diagnosis or opinion may vary, some have seen or heard stuff before and some haven't I guess. I agree with the above in that symptom description even with clips posted up can make it difficult for accurate guidance online, I'm pretty certain I'm on the right path with your car though.

the tools you may need if tackling it are the cam locking tool, crank damper puller, belt tool, torque wrenches,

the oil pump gears are available and affordable but the pressure relief valve and other parts aren't now available so only a pump assembly would be possible, if one removes the gears and the casing is scored then it's a pump really, check the gears for cracks btw.

I keep OEM chain, tensioner, guides, pump gears, oil pump, and all engine gaskets/seals including OEM rocker cover bolts, rocker cover seals, timing cover seals, oil pump seal, all of it generally as well as OEM crank damper puller for both damper versions and other OEM tools etc, performance camshafts, ARP bolts, bearings, and other stuff. Basically most parts to rebuild one as there's usually something here in bits anyway, currently an R56S and R53 with engines apart....

you won't likely find debris under the rocker cover, but you might be able to see down into the chain area and looking carefully sometimes see larger piece of guide dropped off, all the small bits can collect at the bottom sprocket or pump area only to end up in the sump or as said, even forced into chain links,

this is a typical example from the one here now, if you can't see this piece here you probably wouldn't on yours tbf, look between the pin visible and the chain, the long piece shown in an above pic is just sitting wedged in here.... (pic is actually upside down but doesn't matter 😂)
WP_20201026_049.jpg

you'll of course have the chain and top sprocket in the way but it is sometimes possible to see the layer missing off the guide, like this front one removed....

WP_20201026_024.jpg

forget the Lohen stuff, you can buy a complete tensioner for close to what they want for a damper, and the adjustable one I don't recommend at all,

some 'while you're there jobs' I've listed above if applicable

the noises in your clips imo are not compression or gasket, or exhaust related in my opinion fwiw ;O)

otherwise if I've helped somehow then great, not always quick to reply or even on here looking as much as with MT tbh, thanks for comments.

hope you can find someone you can trust with it(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no problem,

yes, I work on these only at home currently for just mechanical repairs or performance related stuff, engine/drivetrain/suspension/brakes, certain parts etc. Also on MiniTorque as CarsOrBikes, or fb (@WirralMini)

sadly I'm not near you but in Wirral, that said I'd still be happy to look at the car, I already have people that travel here, I either take them or pick them up from Chester station or local Wirral one, sometimes I might lend them a car if comprehensively insured etc, if I have something.

diagnosis or opinion may vary, some have seen or heard stuff before and some haven't I guess. I agree with the above in that symptom description even with clips posted up can make it difficult for accurate guidance online, I'm pretty certain I'm on the right path with your car though.

the tools you may need if tackling it are the cam locking tool, crank damper puller, belt tool, torque wrenches,

the oil pump gears are available and affordable but the pressure relief valve and other parts aren't now available so only a pump assembly would be possible, if one removes the gears and the casing is scored then it's a pump really, check the gears for cracks btw.

I keep OEM chain, tensioner, guides, pump gears, oil pump, and all engine gaskets/seals including OEM rocker cover bolts, rocker cover seals, timing cover seals, oil pump seal, all of it generally as well as OEM crank damper puller for both damper versions and other OEM tools etc, performance camshafts, ARP bolts, bearings, and other stuff. Basically most parts to rebuild one as there's usually something here in bits anyway, currently an R56S and R53 with engines apart....

you won't likely find debris under the rocker cover, but you might be able to see down into the chain area and looking carefully sometimes see larger piece of guide dropped off, all the small bits can collect at the bottom sprocket or pump area only to end up in the sump or as said, even forced into chain links,

this is a typical example from the one here now, if you can't see this piece here you probably wouldn't on yours tbf, look between the pin visible and the chain, the long piece shown in an above pic is just sitting wedged in here.... (pic is actually upside down but doesn't matter 😂)
View attachment 281245

you'll of course have the chain and top sprocket in the way but it is sometimes possible to see the layer missing off the guide, like this front one removed....

View attachment 281246

forget the Lohen stuff, you can buy a complete tensioner for close to what they want for a damper, and the adjustable one I don't recommend at all,

some 'while you're there jobs' I've listed above if applicable

the noises in your clips imo are not compression or gasket, or exhaust related in my opinion fwiw ;O)

otherwise if I've helped somehow then great, not always quick to reply or even on here looking as much as with MT tbh, thanks for comments.

hope you can find someone you can trust with it(y)

Thankyou again for your response 🙏
You don’t know what it means to me : Ive been through a hell of a storm with different cars and ive only been on the road for 4 years :

This one was immaculate, 3 previous owners (lady owned for most of its life) FSH; most of which was from mini themselves, MOT history had nothing but an advisory for a crack in the windshield, the guy was a pilot who works on minis himself and even helped me jack it up so I could inspect it, its one of the last ones off the production line, looks like its been waxed and detailed all its life but still after 3 months im here begging for help 😂😭😭😭



Let me send you some money for some beers now that the pubs are open 🙌 (If you've got a PayPal link send it over)



If you're able to analyse my below plan and give me some feedback I will send you what I can to atleast make up for the time you’ve spent helping me : I honestly wouldn’t be able to do any of this otherwise.



Im going to post it in Mini Torque and North American Motors aswell.
Im surprised I havent been able to find a thread of someone whose gone through a similar situation.



MY PLAN OF ACTION: LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ?

I did the screwdriver test on the output horn: It didn’t sound smooth but It didn’t sound dry or like there was any scraping so im going to leave that one until ive recovered from doing everything else.


[Im going to shoot the parts suppliers an email and see what their restocking fees are because Its my daily and I need to prepare for the worst (I only have a 3-4 day window to work on her) : Im going to need to order absolutely everything whether I need it or not 😕 Not really anyway around this.

If it all falls apart I may be able to borrow my brothers fiesta for a week or 2 as I work nights but just insuring myself on that temporarily costs a bomb.



OIL PUMP& BELT RENEWAL / UPGRADE PROJECT

-I wasn’t able to find any oil pump gears other than these Oil pump rotor kit and only the inner gear on ebay. do I need to contact Mini/BMW/Chrysler ? I assume you mean replace them when you said 'renew the gears'

-Here's the best price full assembly that I could find: MINI - 11147573765 Oil Pump&Cover R50/R53 Hopefully I don’t need it.

-Gasket is included in the Orranje timing chain kit.



-Conrod bearing confusion ?! : The cheapest full set seems to be atleast £100 and im confused as to the tolerances and how to find out which ones I need ?

- Orranje Performance: MINI Performance Parts, MINI Tuning, MINI Styling

-Ive been sat here planning and researching for atleast 17 hours now so forgive me for not getting to the bottom of this.





To inspect the oil pump ive got to take apart the whole belt assembly and due to the mileage it could probably do with a overhaul:

-Replace the tensioner with a new mini gates belt tensioner with super pro dampener bushes (As theyre all out of the powerflex ones) :MINI Gates K066PK1390 Tensioner Assembly, Idler Pulley, Belt R53 (T36168|T38404|6PK) - Orranje Performance: MINI Performance Parts, MINI Tuning, MINI Styling


Crank pulley : Ive wasted a load of time now looking into the +2% dampened one and other pulley configurations to support it but its not something i can afford right now and ive given up trying to justify it. what do you recommend ?

-There doesn’t seem to be much of a selection for the R53 and I really don’t want to be forking out for an OEM one just to use for a year or so 😕 it looks like im getting an eBay one for now

-Crankshaft Pulley Damper For Mini Cooper S R52 R53 11237525135 11237514461 | eBay

Or maybe a FEBI one: Crankshaft Pulley Fits Mini Cooper S Works R52 R53 OE 11237525135 Febi 104929


(Buying a cravenspeed +2% along with a + 5% alternator pulley is a cursed dream but at this point id just be an idiot to take any kind of risk of crank walk/ belt slip amoung other things: if it was my weekend car and the roads where i live werent like a rally stage course i would consider it.
Craven speed are bloody convincing or straight misselling : CravenSpeed Lightened & Enlarged Crank Pulley )

'This pulley is safe to use even though you are swapping from a ‘damped’ pulley to a single mass, solid pulley. The elastomer (rubber ring that looks similar to a harmonic damper) in the OEM pulley acts as an isolator to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself. A traditional harmonic damping pulley would have been designed to protect against crank failure from torsional movement but CravenSpeed has researched the need for this and found it to be unnecessary in the MINI engine because of advances in engine design and materials. You can fit this part with confidence'


-Replace the crank shaft seal (Included in the Victor Reiz timing chain kit)



-Replace the crank shaft pulley bolt


-Conrod bolts: Worth replacing ? Again theyre fucking pricey.

ARP 206-6008 Con Rod Bolts - R53



- Replace the sump gasket



- Replace the belt: Gates seem to be the go to manufacturer and theyr'e the most affordable thing on my list ; I might see if I can get a deal on the belt , plugs , oil , filter etc as a bundle



Uprated idler pulley ? The belt tensioner kit includes one but I came across this: Any thoughts ?

KAVS R53 MINI Cooper S Lightweight 6 Rib Idler Pulley (KAVS-R53-IDLER) - Orranje Performance: MINI Performance Parts, MINI Tuning, MINI Styling : Id be future proofed but its not something I can imagine will provide me with any real benefit.







If I can see that the guides are worn or after changing the whole belt assembly it doesn’t sound like the issue has been resolved then I will commence plan B.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PLAN B 😂😭: Changing the guides and servicing the top end



- You recommend replacing the chain but ive heard theyre good for a life time ? Is it definitely worth the effort , i can imagine it gets stretched over time and it may be worn if the guides have disintegrated.

: If the guide has disintigrated is there anything else that i should really look into cleaning out ? You said pieces might get pushed up against the gauze and i can imagine any kind of plastic hanging around is going to cause more issues.



Im going to have to get most of the way in just to get those guides out by the looks of things so whilst im in there I may aswell take the whole top off:

Whole timing kit service : Victor Reinz / Elring R53 R52 R50 Timing Chain Kit (TK124G) - Orranje Performance: MINI Performance Parts, MINI Tuning, MINI Styling

11 31 1 485 400 - Timing Chain

11 31 1 485 403 - Sprocket

11 31 8 648 241 - Tensioner Guide Rail

11 31 1 485 397 - Guide Rail

11 21 1 485 402 - Sprocket

11 31 7 510 801 - Hydraulic Tensioner

11 12 1 485 838 - Rocker Cover Gasket

11 12 7 513 066 - Plug Seal x 4

11 14 1 485 162 - Timing Cover Gasket

11 41 1 485 173 - Rubber O Seal

11 41 1 485 172 - Rubber O Seal

11 11 1 485 171 - Crank Seal



-Inspect the rocker cover

-inspect the cams

-inspect the tops of the pistons


-Clean the cylinder head : Apparently brake and parts cleaner will do along with a scraper ?


Change the head gasket: Victor Reinz R50 R53 Top End Gasket Set with Head Gasket (02-34980-02) - Orranje Performance: MINI Performance Parts, MINI Tuning, MINI Styling :

I cant identify everything in their image but I will ask them before ordering or just double order and send back the ones not part of the kit that I don’t need.

From what I can see:

-Head gasket

-Exhaust manifold gasket

-intake duct gasket

-Valve stem seals

- Valve cover seal

-Injector o-rings



I WILL ALSO REPLACE ALL OF THESE THINGS WHILST IM IN THERE:

-Vacuum lines

-thermostat

-thermostat gasket

-thermostat housing: Extra £10 for a metal one

-Crank position Sensor

-Crank sensor O-ring

-Injector O-Rings

-Inspect the injectors: Should be arlight until I decide to take things further in a year or so.

-Spark plug tube seals

-Hose clamps for the BPV

-Hose clips Samco Hose Clip Pack For Coolant and Induction Kits (Gen 1)



-Change the cylinder head bolts for studs (£100 ?)



-Cam shaft sprocket bolt (£45 ? )



And then im going to quit my current job and get into the business of selling small bits of threaded metal 😐.





Ive found a set of rocker arms on ebay in good condition on ebay which im going to buy just because im scared about breaking the hydraulic lash adjuster clips and no one seems to sell replacements.

And ill also inspect the AC pump but I havent had any sign of this having an issue : Since were in England i doubt its ever been used.



AFTER ALL OF THIS ID BE SILLY NOT TO DO ANOTHER SERVICE:
DESPITE DOING ONE 500 MILES AGO:


-Air filter
-Oil filter

-Coolant flush

-Flush and replace the engine oil : what do you use ? Some people swear by different brands and others say its all the same.

-New plugs: (I used these last time so will probably get them again: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153852674464)



Seafoam ? Ive seen very mixed opinions (Im scared to even mention it) but not heard of it making things worse unless used incorrectly: Still undecided if I should do this before or after the top end service. Maybe both before and after.



OTHER THINGS IVE CONSIDERED:

Any more bolts worth buying just incase : stripped , rusted?
Impossible to remove bolts are my biggest fear : ive already destroyed a set of bolt extractors and a ratchet trying to change the sump plug.
I also destroyed a standard oil filter socket.
-It can turn a 1 hour job into a 1 week job.


Power steering fluid change ?



Lower engine mount bushing ? Powerflex one



Other bushings ?



Oil catch can ? Again strong opinions on both sides.



Doing a deep clean of the engine bay with degreaser : I do smell some burning at high revs but I believe its where I got oil all over the exhaust manifold when trying to change the filter



Should I look into changing the piston rings or is that a grade too far ?



Ever heard of an extended timing chain tensioner plug ?







Its an 11 year old car with 80,000 miles so I can imagine theres some lovely carbon deposits and worn seals waiting for me (The spark plugs looked a bit rough when I changed them last)



It’s a big old job but id rather get it all out of the way now.

I hope to own an R53 for life: These parts, your help and advice aswell as the back ache from the 18+ hours ive spent sitting here planning & researching should help me secure that.

-My mate whose a mechanic is going to come and make sure I don’t fuck it up too badly : Ive watched/ am going to follow the videos Mod Mechanic has made and take my sweet time with it .



Ive found some methods on organising bolts and am going to record myself whilst doing it.



Its probably worth the effort ; I will eventually get over the cost of the bolts and they should pay for themselves if I ever need to change anything again.



I know its a lot to process but does that all sound about right ?



Im going to get most the parts from Orranje if you know of any discount codes ?





Again I cant thank you enough for your advice and if you’ve got a paypal link send it over so I can atleast make it up to you in some way. If you dont accept something from me i will genuinely feel bad.



If theres anything else I can do to help don’t think before asking





Huge Respect,



TOBY G 🙏
 

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Hi Toby,

thanks again for nice comments,

first thing to get out of the way buddy is that the help I choose to give whenever I do is totally without cost or expectation ;O)

forums are generally to help out which sometimes I do and sometimes I don't, this time I'm happy to have some input so it's all free advice, if you trust it and are happy then that's just great (y)

others can and will no doubt chime in although possibly with different opinion or advice and that's the nature of these places,

as I say I'm on MT more (a lot more really haha), the same goes there, help is help, and on specialist forums when given, it is free, always, just friendly support for other owners, some in my case have turned into loyal customers which is its own reward as is the positive feedback they may give.

worth saying now, as with all online info please just be cautious with what you take away from it, there is some bad advice and poor practices sometimes shared, if in doubt ask more or ask again if you need to.

so please don't feel bad that I don't accept reward for the bit of time involved here, as above, if I've helped in some way then great.

Sean
ExclusiveWorkshops/CarsOrBikes/@WirralMini
 
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