[mike1967]

yep they all do that and even more so when engine is worn out, if burning oil valve stem seals common also on never engines they use a plastic metal coated oil rings and these are all kids of crap..

 

[mike1967]

below kit

Pardon our interruption...

or cheapest new aftermarket cover i have used a few of these now and work ok

Pardon our interruption...

genuine ones are close to £400 new,
if car idles fine then pcv valve is fine, they all push some oil out the breather its a normal thing, what you could do is fit a catch can if smoking on over run alot,, that said when they smoke more likely to be a worn engine or stem seals etc,, also if its smoking from the breather pushing to much oil in to the pcv and inlet its prob breathing t much from blow past on piston rings,, if worth sticking a can of seafoam in oil and running it for 100 miles this will do a couple of things clean out any crud effecting oil rings on pistons and the return oil within them, will also help to break down the glaze on the bores ,, ie running fully syn oil tends to cause more glazing this allows more blow past as rings dont dig in as such to seal,, hence why a mineral oil is used to break a lot of engines in,, if stem seals this will help remove crud of the seals as well,, could be worth when change the oil and filter add some stop leak for valve stems seals in the oil it smells the rubbers up,,

Petrol / Diesel Oil Engine Stop Leak Sealer Valve Stem Seal For Bmw 5081946854334 | eBay

LUCAS ENGINE STOP LEAK For Petrol Diesel Cars NEW from Lucas Oil Products, Our Engine Oil Stop Leak is a unique formulation of Lucas additives and very specific base stock designed to stop seal leaks in engines. It contains nothing that could be harmful to an engine and can actually extend the...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[mike1967]

yep the breather on those enters directly under number 4 inlet port on head,, ie number 4 is not where you think it is, on these engines number 1 cylinder is gearbox end and number 4 is water pump front pulley end, on turbo cars the breather effects number 1 and 2 where it bleeds oil to the inlet manifold,if its pushing a lot of oil through the breather pipe it might be due to high crankcase pressure from worn piston rings or glazed bores as fully synthetic oils do cause this more than mineral oils,, i have found the seafoam can reverse this somewhat but wont replace missing piston rings metal ie if worn out, its one of those it sorts it or it dont and of dont at least will no its a engine job rather than wasting time on replacing stuff that dont need it,,
below link is a must do test to be sure as these engines must have a certain pressure to function well

believe me i just went through this with mine after a rebuild and used the latest spec piston rings turned out the oil rings that were plastic metal coated were shite and caused and crankcase is as well when on the over run , sorting the correct piston rings fixed it,

 

[mike1967]

What Causes High Hydrocarbon (HC)? Below are common failures which are likely to produce high Hydrocarbon HC. Hydrocarbons are basically raw fuel, otherwise known as Gasoline. High Hydrocarbon (HC) emissions are almost always a sign of poor fuel ignition. However, it's not always that the engine's ignition system is responsible for high Hydrocarbon emissions. Read on. 1. Improper Ignition Timing - Engine ignition timing is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC). Example of an ignition timing failure would be in the case where an engine's ignition timing is required to be set at 10 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and instead is set to 15 degrees BTDC. This fault will not only cause a smog check "functional failure", but will increase Hyrdocarbon (HC) emissions as well. California allows 3 degrees +/- off of the manufacturer's required setting. Note: Late model vehicle's may not have a distributor, and therefore no timing adjustment will be needed. On these engines timing is electronically controlled by the ECU (Engine Control Unit). 2. Defective Ignition Components Your vehicle's ignition system consists of the ignition coil/s, distributor*, distributor cap*, distributor rotor*, ignition wires, and spark plugs. If any of these components are defective the engine will produce high hydrocarbons. A common reason ignition components perform poorly is due to carbon build-up. High ignition voltage traveling through the air pockets within these components form carbon. Carbon acts as an insulator between paths of electricity, decreasing the energy required at the spark plug to ignite the air/fuel in the combustion chambers properly. *Distributor-less engines do not have these components.

Regular Smog Check STAR Smog Station Smog Check Repair​ Mile:​ 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 Which Type Should I Choose?​ ​ ​ Related Links: Failed High HC Emissions Failed High CO Emissions Failed High NO Emissions

3. Lean Fuel Mixture- Any condition which will cause unmetered air to enter the intake manifold, and ultimately the combustion chambers, will cause high hydrocarbons (HC). This condition is called a lean miss-fire. Such faults as vacuum leaks and gasket leaks will cause lean fuel/air mixtures. Broken, disconnected or misrouted vacuum hoses will do the same. It is also important to note that many engine components rely on engine vacuum for proper operation. If any of these components are defective, externally or internally, they may cause large vacuum leaks as well. A good example of such a component is your vehicle's power brake booster. 4. Defective Catalytic Converter - A defective catalytic converter (CAT) may be responsible for high HC, CO, and NOx emissions. The Catalytic Converter, commonly referred to as the CAT is a component designed to continue the combustion process within itself and emit a more thoroughly burned and less harmful emissions containing exhaust. The most accurate way to find out if your vehicle's CAT is working efficiently is by using an exhaust gas analyzer. Unfortunately this tool is fairly expensive. Testing the CAT should be conducted at a smog check repair station. Some obvious symptoms of a bad CAT could be any of the following: a. Major loss of power over 15-25 mph. This may be an indication that the catalytic converter is plugged up and restricting exhaust flow. b. Strong sulfer or rotten egg smell emitting from the exhaust on an otherwise good running vehicle. This may be an indication that the Catalytic Converter isn't burning fuel completely, instead storing it, then releasing it as hydrogen sulfide. c. Loud rattle being heard from inside the CAT. This may indicate a broken Catalytic Converter substrate. You may want to ensure this sound is not due to loose exhaust components, i.e. broken muffler flanges, loose exhaust pipes, loose or cracked exhaust manifold. 5. Defective Air Injection Components - Faulty smog pump and related emissions system components will cause high HC. The air injection system is designed to introduce additional oxygen, after the metering system, to the engine exhaust as it exits the exhaust manifold, or directly before it enters the Catalytic Converter; thus burning whatever remaining fuel (HC) in the exhaust completely. 6. Low Cylinder Compression - This fault is one of the less common high HC causing problems we encounter. Reasons an engine may have low or no compression in one or more of its cylinders may include things such as burned intake or exhaust valve/s, defective valve guides and/or seals, defective piston rings, and burned head gasket/s. A wet/dry cylinder compression test will diagnose this fault. More then often if such a problem exists it will be very apparent. You should notice rough idle.

 

[mike1967]

mine were like yours was faulty new oil control piston rings redone the motor and now all very low again,, after replacing a few bits like 02 sensors and breathers etc as thought could not be the rings as i had just fitted new ones,, lesson learnt my very first feeling was those dam piston rings some times the worst case is just that

 

[mike1967]

also deffo have timing chain checked

 

[mike1967]

Pre-cat (upstream) O2 sensor: plausibility can be caused by a lot of things, 02 sensors being one but your code says plausibility that to me means its working but picking up issues from somewhere else,,, when car is on idle it sets its seft as open loop when hot ie a pre set idle running map where the map sensor and temp sensor and throttle body work as one to keep a set fuel air mix to stay at idle, when throttle pressed the ecu switches to closed loop,,, closed loop then takes over the air fuel mixture of the engine,, things that effects this badly are, oil burning, air leaks, inlet restriction ie turbo cars inlet valves carbon up, fault injector leaking of clogged all effect the running,,, i've been working on these faults for years and even i sometime get to a point where i have to admit this,, unless you have have good sensor in first place its very hard to pin point some of these issues out,,as a o2 sensor can works but its parameters can be faulty under some temps or conditions and appear to work,, just had that on one same thing idle was all over the place cased a like your a map sensor issue replaced it helped it but not cured it, turned out poss cat 02 sensor that i had scanned and was working just not at right voltages, 02 sensor are very common on these engines as they run hot and burn oil this slows them down clogs them,, with new sensors you start form knowing they are working right and this is where the engines get all their data to run correctly at correct mixture,,common is also rocker cover causing lean running, unplug block the pipe to inlet manifold see if runs better is does replace it, might be a few components that add up to make it run all kinds of wrong the joys of prince engines and emissions

 

[mike1967]

i go through that list all time with them the main two items that need to be treated as a mileage and if car had hard life or oil burning is 02 sensors everything these engines do is based on what those sensors pick up and tell the ecu what air fuel needed etc, also timing chain must be correct as that will also effect it badly

 

[mike1967]

Hi MIke, did you redone whole motor or only piston rings and valve stem seals? Thanks

second time around just fitted new better piston rings and head gasket and head bolts conrod bolts and cam and crank bolts ie 3 piece rather than the bmw metal coated plastic crap it had before,, sold that car about a year a go now still have it back for service etc shes done 15k in it loves it to bits its still got no crankcase breathing nice and clean and went through last mot very low on HC and co,, she did mention she puts in around 1 litre of oil every 3k so its better than factory ie 1 litre to 1200 miles

 

[mike1967]

I think of doing that job too. Hoping that head, engine block and pistons are okay. Although engine now runs fine.... but I’m sure not for long. It has 147000km.
By 3 piece, you mean 3 piece oil control ring? I’m sorry for bugging I don’t understand much I’m not mechanic. 😬

bmw on factory engines use a single piece bottom oil control piston ring its made of a coated nylon and metal coated as such and are fine for 80-100k when bores are not very worn,, trouble is when do a refresh of these engines the bores will be very slightly oval and these rings dont bed in as well as a solid metal piston ring on the bottom ring set ie these control oil from getting past to compression rings as such, so the better solid metal rings hold their shape better and do seal better for longer i have found, hence why i now use these ring sets in everything i rebuild,, as can set the gaps 180 degrees apart and are just better compared to the plastic factory type ,,,
below pics of 3 piece oil rings

 

[mike1967]

deffo not bugging me

 

[mike1967]

Thank you very much!! I understand now.
I need to buy these ones? as I saw somewhere previously you wrote.

Set of Piston Rings for Mini Cooper & Cooper S 1.4 & 1.6 16v N12, N14, N16 & N18 | eBay

Engine Codes: N12 B14 A, N12 B16 A, N14 B16 A, N14 B16 C, N16 B16 A, N18 B16 A, N18 B16 C. Engine Codes N12 B14 A N12 B16 A N14 B16 A N14 B16 C N16 B16 A N18 B16 A N18 B16 C. Mini 1.4 & 1.6 16v Cooper & Cooper S.

www.ebay.com

yes deffo best option just dont force the pistons back in the cylinders plenty of thick oil and gentle push,, i use a wood handled hammer handle first to slightly push them in and down the bore,, set the crankshaft at bottom of swing where can reach the bolts, fit the upper bearing before pushing piston in makes job easier,, i do 1 and 4 then rotate the crank then do 2 and 3 as they are on same stroke,

 

[mike1967]

below link best compressor tool i ever bought , even better than the £60 snap on one i got

Draper Piston Ring Compressor Tool 60mm - 100mm Capacity Adjustable with Key 5010559518456 | eBay

Draper 51845 PRC60/100 60mm - 100mm Piston Ring Compressor. Capacity 60-100mm. Spring steel with steel adjusting key.

www.ebay.co.uk