Yes, the tensioner will have to be pushed into the chain as it tightens. Or, if you mean you have to push it in to grab the threads, thats also correct. Especially with the new, longer tensioner design.

I actually have a torque wrench capable of 0.6 nm (I also work on motorcycles and some things are in the 0-10 nm range) and the tensioning tool goes in a surprising amount before it hits the specified resistance. Wife’s car is an N12.

Just make sure to rotate the engine by hand a few times and make aure the timing locks still drop into place. If they do, you’re good to go.

 

Hello Flightops,
Thank You for the response. I felt like I had done everything right. I watched video after video and would watch again before each step. I only saw one video where it actually looked as if he was pushing as he was tightening, but no mention was made of it. I just needed some confirmation before I undid the locks.
Thanks Again,
Kevin

 

Cool.

I still recommend you turn the engine over by hand 4-5 times and recheck the timing. Several on the board have done the job right only to find after rotating the engine the locks no longer line up.

The last one I remember had an issue with the oil pump solenoid not working properly which was throwing out the timing….I think the problem was it was holding oil pressure in the vanos sprocket which was allowing it to the stay too “retarded”…

 

defo plus 1 for hand rotation a few times just to be sure

 

and always clockwise rotation