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Emission Light/ o2 sensors/Fault codes & Mots

81K views 53 replies 23 participants last post by  gaznav  
#1 ·
Hi Guys, as this is quite a talked about topic, I thought I'd try and combine all the info on one thread for you, togetther with all the misconceptions that seem to occur.
EMISSION LIGHT This can come on for a number of reasons, either from a signal from the pre -cat O2 sensor OR the post cat O2 sensor. Often the signal is from the Pre-cat sensor ,and although putting the light on (symbol of an engine ,NOT TO BE CONFUSED with the EML light), usually no fault code will be present. It will remain on for a number of drive cycles (usually 2 or 3 days) even if the the over rich mixture is not detected again within that period. On a modded MCS under load the richer mixture is desirable ,therefore for me I WANT the light on! At idle and gentle cruise there is no richening of the mixture over stock so no MOT worries there. It is under WOT conditions that normally triggers the light. Also using 95 Ron fuel and /or giving it beans whilst still warming up ,will make the light more likely to come on. Remember It is only a 'flag'. Its not reducing power or changing the way the car performs.
Ok as I said earlier, the light can also be triggered from the post cat sensor. This sensor has one job and one job only- To compare the outputs of the 2 sensors to monitor cat efficiency. If it detects that the gasses have not been cleaned up enough by the cat ,the Emission light will be triggered BUT this time you get a code ...usually P0420. This is fairly common with a sports cat, which is freeer flowing (bigger holes) for max performance, but in certain driving conditions may not clean up the gas enough to prevent the light BUT will usually be more than adequate to pass the MOT. -That to most people is the important thing.

O2 SENSORS The car uses 2 pretty bog standard narrow band heated 02 Sensors. And Im guessing 95% of the sensors changed under warranty by BMW , (because a light came on) were actually perfectly OK!
Do you need the sensors atall? The upstream one ,yes definatly. The Downstream one, no you dont! Whether you have a cat or not the sensor is not required either for correct running of the car nor for the MOT. My car hasnt had the second sensor fitted for 3 years!! You need to fit a bung in place of it AND disconnect it (remove from car). Does this make the light come on? No it doesnt. All you get is P0036 code in the ecu. The first sensor and the light work as normal. As the sensors are expensive, you can keep the removed one as a spare for the upstream one:cool:
FAULT CODES Always get the dealer to list the codes before he clears them. A fault code doesnt necessarily point to the correct faulty item. An air leak is a classic one. The codes point to faulty TB or Map sensor and its a split in the intercooler bellows.!
MOT (UK) this consists of fast idle and natural idle tests (ie no WOT or the like). HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide) levels are checked. You do not have to have a cat on the car to pass the MOT even if it has one as standard. Obviously the emissions will be higher and if they are above the limit, you fail and driving the car with excess emissions would be illegal. I'm going to try our new R56 MCS (when it comes) to see if it actually needs a cat to pass the mot /be legal. If it doesnt its coming off for good. Cats do rob power, the more power/boost you run the more the restriction. So no cat is a good thing if you dont 'have' to have it.
Best Regards Roland GTT:smile:
 
#2 ·
All very interesting Roland.

I was under the impression that after '97 a car had to be fitted with a cat to pass the MOT, regardless of emissions.

Nice to know you don't need it, although if caught on the road you could still be charged with driving an unroadworthy vehicle right?
 
#3 ·
Hi, its the emission output that determine whether the car is will pass an mot, not the fitting/not fitting of a cat. Most cars will need the cat to be within the emission threshold, though the new R56 MCS with its direct injection ,efficient engine & turbo may?? may get through without. one..... -Can't wait to try it.
Best Regards Roland GTT:smile:
 
#4 ·
MOT / Emissions / No CAT

That is very interesting, and clear.

I'm due for my MOT in November for my GTT260 supercharged car. I'll be coming to Dorset for that ;) , and I would like to see what emissions are being released with a straight through pipe, even if they are too high, but still out of pure necessity to feed curiosity.

I'm still totally amazed at the very VERY low emissions seen on the new 300bhp Turbo.

Cheers,
K.
 
#5 ·
Hi there Roland,

My emmisions light is on and has been since my performance Manifold was put on. Although the car seems to be running perfectly normaly the light is still on but, its happend twice now where i will notice the emmisions light has gone off on its own, but then will re illuminate after a day or so, why would it be doing this?

Also after i fitted an enlarged throttle body it revs up and down on tick over, would this put the emmisions light on?

Oh and its a Mini One i drive.

Best Regards

Alex
 
#6 ·
Dude, read it again

"EMISSION LIGHT This can come on for a number of reasons, either from a signal from the pre -cat O2 sensor OR the post cat O2 sensor."

Your sensors are not reading OEM typical values due to a free flowing manifold, hence your Emissions Light is lit. The fact it goes out after a few drive cylces proves nothing is actually faulty and that you have probably exceeded a threshold in emissions for a split second or two.

Cheers,
K.
 
#8 ·
no orange light on gtt220 until i added bigger intercooler, ok for a few weeks then added gtt snoot boots, pretty soon after that got my 1st emissions light up
now almost a weekly occurrence, logic suggests that more cooler/denser air would lead to a leaner mix? is my ecu over compensating,:confused:
i think i can smell fuel when car comes out of garage in morning, never noticed before, also seem to be getting less mpg [ that also could be down to new 215/40/17 rubber]
or have i got the wrong end of the stick here, i appreciate that the light is a good thing, but dont feel i am driving the car any harder than pre intercooler mod, would a re-flash or new map help?

wonders out loud if jcw injectors would help prevent orange light, by more efficient fuel delivery
or am i barking up wrong tree here as well?:puzzled:
 
#14 ·
Roland, if my pre cat sencer is b**g**d, can i take it out and clean it or do i have to get a new one? If so how much are they if you know?

Alex

(i tryd claiming from tesco coz i only use their 99 octain fuel, and i have all the proof of purchaces slips but they still havnt done anything about sortign my car out, if its cheep enough i may just get on with the repair myself.

Alex
 
#16 ·
p0130 fault code

Hi Guys!

I have the engine light on with p0130 code on my modified MCS. Anyone have any ideas. The engine light has gone out for a few seconds then come on again. As Roland says the fault code doesnt necessarily correspond to the o2 sensor and im wondering if it is actually a fault in the map sensor circuit. Can anyone shed some ideas on the matter?

Oh yes its running a full miltek system with high flow cat.

Cheers
 
#23 ·
Hi Guys!

I have the engine light on with p0130 code on my modified MCS. Anyone have any ideas. The engine light has gone out for a few seconds then come on again.
Cheers
Woody.... I think yours could be the O2 sensor. Quite often its the wires get chaffed through where they're not routed correctly.
Best Regards Roland GTT:smile:
Very interesting.. My light's come on (R53, 55 plate One) a few times in recent weeks, and I didn't know what it was, till I checked my Induction kit - which was filthy :redface: )

I've put the standard airbox back on, and it seems to have gone away...
I got a shot of a fault code reader, and it was showing the code P0130..

Could the manky air filter have been starving the engine of air a bit and confusing the O2 sensor?
 
#17 ·
Mike..... The ASC light coming on is due to hitting 18psi boost. It switchs off until you recycle the ignition. You also get P0108 stored too. -perfectly normal for a highly modded S and no bad thing as it saves you having to remember to turn the dam thing off.:D Mind you if you like it on ,it keeps it on for slippery surfaces where your not at WOT at high revs anyway.
Woody.... I think yours could be the O2 sensor. Quite often its the wires get chaffed through where they're not routed correctly.
Best Regards Roland GTT:smile:
 
#18 ·
Roland,

Are either of the sensors you mention the ones that control inlet pressure? I changed this today, but the car stall stutters and stalls. Do i need to clear the fault codes after changing the sensor in order for the problem to go away. If I can get the car driving well enough to pay you a visit, then I'm sure all will be well.

thanks

Piers
 
#21 ·
Ok as I said earlier, the light can also be triggered from the post cat sensor. This sensor has one job and one job only- To compare the outputs of the 2 sensors to monitor cat efficiency. If it detects that the gasses have not been cleaned up enough by the cat ,the Emission light will be triggered BUT this time you get a code ...usually P0420. This is fairly common with a sports cat, which is freeer flowing (bigger holes) for max performance, but in certain driving conditions may not clean up the gas enough to prevent the light BUT will usually be more than adequate to pass the MOT. -That to most people is the important thing.

O2 SENSORS The car uses 2 pretty bog standard narrow band heated 02 Sensors. And Im guessing 95% of the sensors changed under warranty by BMW , (because a light came on) were actually perfectly OK!
Do you need the sensors atall? The upstream one ,yes definatly. The Downstream one, no you dont! Whether you have a cat or not the sensor is not required either for correct running of the car nor for the MOT. My car hasnt had the second sensor fitted for 3 years!! You need to fit a bung in place of it AND disconnect it (remove from car). Does this make the light come on? No it doesnt. All you get is P0036 code in the ecu. The first sensor and the light work as normal. As the sensors are expensive, you can keep the removed one as a spare for the upstream one:cool:
Hi Roland

I'm currently on full Miltek (with hi-flow metalic cat) and after 1.5 years (25,000miles) , the engine threw on P0420. I'm not sure whether this is due to faulty o2 or spoilt cat.

You mentioned that the post o2 can be removed without throwing any Emission Warning Light by 'fitting a bung in place and disconnect the o2'. Can you elaborate on this? I'm very paranoid with the Emission Warning Light.

Next question is if one of the o2s is spoilt, can we swap the pre and post o2? Are they the same and will this throw any warning lights?

Thanks for any inputs. Cheers!

PS- My friend is willing to do a swap so as to determine whether my o2 is spoilt or its just the Miltek Cat gone.
 
#22 ·
Hi, P0420 is cat below efficiency. -Common with afternmarket cats and usually not a problem as normally goes through UK MOT fine.
You can remove the rear sensor; use a bung in the hole and (important) unplug the sensor and completly remove from the car. If you clear the codes/light, the light will now stay off, UNLESS it picks up overrich from the first sensor. This will put the light on but unless mega rich no codes.
Removing the rear sensor will pull up P0036,which is basically saying that sensors heater circuit is disconnected, which you know anyway as the sensor is now in your tool box!
ps Yes you can swop the sensors. I'd rather wear out one at a time rather than two. -another good reason for taking the rear one off.
Best Regards Roland GTT:smile:
 
#26 ·
...I had a JCW210 car, with the JCW exhaust manifold fitted and got the emissions light on loads. Not sure if you would hit 18psi though (maybe you would, maybe you wouldn't)

However, my light came on with similar codes due to BMW fitting the O2 sensors badly, they actually screwed them in without allowing for the cable to twist, and it sheared. Nice one BMW. But then again, they also said they'd checked my tracking, but it was proved independently that it was actually ceased and took a good few hours to undo it !!! Lazy BMW are dodgy sometimes - stare at them behind bushes wearing a good disguise and approach their establishments with great caution :D I'm sure they mean well :)

Cheers,
K.
 
#28 ·
To my knowledge the JCW pulley is only 11% or thereabouts - I have seen this number both at NAM and also here from reliable sources. So I assumed that this combo would give me only 11%+3% i.e. 14-15%?

But yeah, I admit that this does not exactly happen in normal daily driving...:D (I just did 1000km on the German autobahns over the last weekend).

Cheers,
Sam
 
#32 ·
Hi Roland,

I fitted my obx header with hi-flow cat on last 5 days.

Just recently, the yellow engine light was on. I read that thread

Just want to know whether it is advice to drive ard with the engine light on ?


Because the engine light is been there for 2 to 3 days and it still havent go off.