Following as I also have this error.
Sent the FRM to be repaired and they said it was fine.

Passenger window sometimes doesn't close properly when the door is closed. No other symptoms

 

Thanks for sharing this. Can I just check with you if you saw this error in the FRM module directly (which is more common) or in the AC module, as in my case?
I think I'll bite the bullet and send the FRM to be repaired anyway, even though that unit had been changed by the previous owner just a year ago.

 

I cannot remember! I can look again when my FRM comes back. I just remember it said something about the windows and something about the AC in the same code read
I sent my FRM to these guys

Security measure | eBay

www.ebay.co.uk

who refunded me when they didn't find anything wrong, so I would recommend them.

My brief research, just this morning, led me to a faulty window regulator so i will take the door card off and check that

https://www.justanswer.com/bmw/kgn6j-2008-mini-passenger-window-does-stay-does-bounce.html

That's a pretty cheap part without the motor so I might try just replacing it.

 

Thanks, really appreciate the extra details. I misread your first post, thought there was actually an issue with your FRM. I'll send mine and see what comes back.
Let us know if the window regulator fix works for you (fingers crossed)!

 

Ok this is the error message

and the passenger window sometimes does close after closing the door. Like below. If i open and close it a few times it will eventually close

I'll have a look at replacing the window regulator and I'll report back when I do.

 

Thanks! Looking forward to the update, I might go the regulator route as well considering the module itself is basically brand new.

 

I have ordered a second hand one. It was only £24.

 

Well I'm in the middle of this now. It's a bastard of a job.
Not helped by the fact that it doesn't look like there is anything wrong with the one I'm taking out. Cables are all tight, nothing is loose or broken except my spirit!

Having a break before I kill someone.

 

Well if it's any consolation, I did that last week, pulled everything apart, and as I was about to install the new regulator, I realised the one I had bought was missing the top metallic part and there is no way to reuse the one from the old regulator, so I actually had to put everything back together and 3 hours later, I was back to square one. I couldn't really find anything faulty with the old one, but I've still ordered another used one which I'll fit this weekend (but I am not exactly keeping my hopes up that it fixes the issue...).

Good luck!

 

Well if it's any consolation, I did that last week, pulled everything apart, and as I was about to install the new regulator, I realised the one I had bought was missing the top metallic part and there is no way to reuse the one from the old regulator, so I actually had to put everything back together and 3 hours later, I was back to square one. I couldn't really find anything faulty with the old one, but I've still ordered another used one which I'll fit this weekend (but I am not exactly keeping my hopes up that it fixes the issue...).

Good luck!

I can see how that might have been annoying!!!!
I hope your replacement fixes your issue too.

 

Well it seems to have worked!
Fault code gone, window works as it should.

I followed the guide here

MINI Cooper R56 Front Window Regulator Replacement (2007-2011) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

This tech article shows you how to replace the window motor and regulator on MINI R56 Coupe vehicles.

www.pelicanparts.com

It was not easy getting the window loose from the screws that hold it, it was having me ready to have a fit!

 

Glad that worked for you! I used the same guide, it's pretty well done, and a couple comments from users at the bottom of the page were quite useful (especially regarding the screws holding the glass pane).
It gives me a bit more hope that it'll solve my problem too. Thanks for sharing and enjoy the trouble-free car!

 

All right, well I replaced the window regulator (and motor) and the issue is still there unfortunately, so back to the drawing board for my Clubman

 

Hi - did you manage to fix this in the end please?

 

Update – Full Diagnosis and Permanent Fix

I'm sharing here in case this helps anyone in the future. This has literally taken me a year to identify and fix.

After replacing the regulator/motor with no improvement, I decided to go back to basics and map the wiring myself.

Confirmed pinouts (measured on my own car)

Driver side (FRM3 X14261 → window motor connector):
FRM pin 4 → Motor pin 1 (Motor feed A, close/up)
FRM pin 5 → Motor pin 2 (Motor feed B, open/down)
FRM pin 14 → Motor pin 3 (Encoder signal 1)
FRM pin 16 → Motor pin 4 (Encoder ground)
FRM pin 22 → Motor pin 5 (Encoder signal 2)

Passenger side (FRM3 X14261 → window motor connector):
FRM pin 35 → Motor pin 1 (Motor feed A, close/up)
FRM pin 36 → Motor pin 2 (Motor feed B, open/down)
FRM pin 25 → Motor pin 3 (Encoder signal 1)
FRM pin -- (empty) → Motor pin 4 (Encoder ground)
FRM pin 23 → Motor pin 5 (Encoder signal 2)

Key discovery:
I first tested from window motor to door connector, and then from body connector to FRM. Passenger motor pin 4 (encoder ground) runs to pin 10 of the A-pillar/body-side connector (X257), but from there it is not connected to FRM pin 17 or any other ground point. Without a ground reference for the encoder, the FRM can’t read position pulses and defaults to “safe” incremental movement.

What I did:
For now, I grounded motor pin 4 locally in the door as a test. Window now works perfectly. Will later do a neat splice in the passenger footwell harness to a chassis ground.
Reset procedure after fix:
– Ignition on
– Fully close window, hold switch up for 5 seconds
– Fully open window, hold switch down for 5 seconds

Everything working perfectly after that. Time for a beer.

Diagnosis steps:
– Confirmed motor → door-side connector continuity for all pins
– Confirmed door-side pin 10 → body-side pin 10 continuity
– Tested body-side pin 10 → FRM pin 17 → open circuit
– Tested body-side pin 10 → chassis → open circuit
– Temporary jumper from motor pin 4 → chassis ground immediately restored full one-touch up/down

Permanent fix : splice body-side pin 10 wire to a clean chassis ground in passenger footwell.