AH , the code for (6.2) is displayed at the far left , so my 6.2 code is 1 (both sensors OK)...... I'll wait till I get under half a tank and see what happens.

 

I found you could buy a complete used sender kit from ebay for £20 , so I bought one and buzzed it out with my multimeter. As your looking at it in the car:-

 

As I was figuring it out I realised one of the variable resistors was giving me unstable readings , it'd jump all over the place as the float was moving, so I squirted a little WD40 onto some P1000 wet and dry sandpaper, and cleaned up both the tracks , then turned it over and cleaned up the surface of the wiper contacts, now it works perfectly, hope this info can help someone else out.

 

Also , you can do this wet n dry trick on both the pump and the filter without removing them from the car.

 

Hi, I've been following this thread for a couple of days now, very informative. The fuel gauge on the wife's mini has not worked for ages and was starting to annoy me. Re-soldered the two earths to the single earth in the footwell, sender/float unit out and checked N/S (passenger) any way, I found the problem this morning: i eventually got the unit out, drivers side, (what a ba$tard of a fiddly job). Culprit: thin green wire that goes from float level sender to connector on the other float level sender. I'll try and post some pics. but don't hold your breath.....I'm old.

 

 

 

Working like a good un !😁

 

Hey all,

Firstly... Sorry for the long read and I hope it makes sense. I am not a mechanic.

I have an, 07 Mini One Convertible (R52). The fuel gauge is on empty with the light on. (3/4 of a tank full)
I have replaced both the fuel pump/float, behind drivers side and the sender unit on the passenger side, under the back seats.
I then replaced the clock thinking the needle must be stuck. Unfortunately this did not fix the problem either.
When I put the original clock back inall of a sudden it worked again! But again the next day, it stopped and went back to reading empty.

I spent yesterday checking the wiring loom that runs along the passenger side, for breaks, etc. All seems ok. The earthing points are all ok.

I’ve seen people on here saying about using a multi meter to check. I do have one, but don’t no what pins to put it on and really to be truthful, I don’t no how to work it probably. I am really just learning off YouTube, and on here.

The big question.... Does anyone have a fix? Or even take some time on here with me to check what you recommend checking?
(PS: The fuse was checked in the passenger footwell as well. All ok)

Thanks all in advance,
Adrian

 

Hey all,

Firstly... Sorry for the long read and I hope it makes sense. I am not a mechanic.

I have an, 07 Mini One Convertible (R52). The fuel gauge is on empty with the light on. (3/4 of a tank full)
I have replaced both the fuel pump/float, behind drivers side and the sender unit on the passenger side, under the back seats.
I then replaced the clock thinking the needle must be stuck. Unfortunately this did not fix the problem either.
When I put the original clock back inall of a sudden it worked again! But again the next day, it stopped and went back to reading empty.

I spent yesterday checking the wiring loom that runs along the passenger side, for breaks, etc. All seems ok. The earthing points are all ok.

I’ve seen people on here saying about using a multi meter to check. I do have one, but don’t no what pins to put it on and really to be truthful, I don’t no how to work it probably. I am really just learning off YouTube, and on here.

The big question.... Does anyone have a fix? Or even take some time on here with me to check what you recommend checking?
(PS: The fuse was checked in the passenger footwell as well. All ok)

I have attached a photo of what the diagnostics says. I asked the mechanic to plug it.

Thanks all in advance,
Adrian

 

1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1.
2. The screen will say 'Test' and a number.
3. Scroll through, (pressing reset button) through to test 19 and wait a moment.
4. Wait and the message will say "log i-off" then "log i-on" and back to "log i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press again. You are now in the system. (Woooo)
5. You can (if you wish) start the ignition any time from now.
6. Scroll through to test 7.0 (or whichever from the list below) and wait a moment, after a pause you will enter the test 7.* range of information.
7. You can scroll through now (7.1,7.2,7.3 etc.) using the reset button.
8. You can exit each menu by pressing, holding for a few seconds, then releasing the reset button.
9. To leave the system scroll to 19 and leave it for a few moments

 

1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.

2.0 Combisystem Test

3.0 Service intervall counter

4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.

5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.

6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)

 

Run the on board diagnostics, get into menu 6.2 and post a pic of the reading

 

thanks for the reply. Is this correct test ok?

1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.

2.0 Combisystem Test

3.0 Service intervall counter

4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.

5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.

6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)

1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.

2.0 Combisystem Test

3.0 Service intervall counter

4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.

5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.

6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)

 

The 3 means implausible signal, now enter into menu 6.0 to see fuel amounts. This should help you find which side is causing the problem driver or passenger side sender unit, post pic of reading.

 

 

Does this mean it’s the passenger side?

 

Now unplug the connector off the fuel pump/sender and do fuel levels again, that will determine which side it is.

 

Ok TexM,
I’am leaving work now so will do it shortly and come back to you later.

thanks again for the help, it’s much appreciated.

adrian

 

The RHS reading has remained the same, that suggests to me there is a problem with the unit on drivers side

 

Lift out the RHS (drivers side) unit, that houses the fuel filter, and check the black and green wires that connect to the other unit. They are very fiddly to lift out, just keep tilting and turning it slightly. Be careful of bending or damaging the float, it can be lifted up enough to check the wires.

 

Wires all ok and connected.

 

You need to do a continuity test of all the wires.

 

 

My pump was replaced a few weeks ago so all the wiring looks good.
I’ve started checking the wiring loom that runs the length of the car, for breaks, etc
Maybe something there? It’s wrecking my brain.

 

Above was the problem with my wires

 

So the pump wasn't the problem, I feel there has got to be a break in a wire. The pump is the passenger side and the filter the drivers side???? Is that correct?

 

Yes the pump is drivers side. It does have a float on it to. The passenger side is the sender unit. It has 2 floats on it.

 

Did you check the two earth/negative wires in the rear passenger footwell?. The two wires connect to one black negative wire (they sometimes corrode). Pull the carpet down and remove the plastic sleeving on the wires to see if they have corroded/rusted.

 

All the wiring seems ok..
Do you think it might be the cable under the black tape that’s dodgy?

 

Take the inner sill plastic trim off and peel the carpet down, passenger side rear footwell. This will give you access to the wiring loom. Unravel the tape and you will see all the colour coordinated wires, you are looking for two black wires that connect to one black wire (shrouded by a transparent plastic coating) . Check these connections have not coroded/rusted away. The two sender units and the fuel gauge will be fine, it's what connects all three together....the wiring!.

 

Is it this one? Seems ok.

 

Remove seat belt anchor point, this will help access.

 

No probs will try that and get back to you.

 

I'm happy it's working for you. It took me 3 days to fix the wife's mini, very annoying if things don't work as they should.
What's a " cockwomble " ?