Update: Replaced both Vanos solenoid to new ones, changes exhaust camshaft seal rings, passed adaptation multiple times on cold/hot engine, checked connections, but still getting the same 2845 fault after 1-2mins of run 😞. Please advise what to check next

 

check oil pressure

 

Thank you @mike1967. What is the proper oil pressure values for idle and 3000rpm?

 

1.5 bar idle hot 3,0bar 3000 revs hot, is what autodata qoute,
could also be the ring on camshafts older cars had metal and they were rubbish , pics below shows new and old type rings,

 

1.5 bar idle 3bar 3000 revs

 

could also be retang rings on camshafts

above new type plastic,

above part numbers

above old type rings the ears snap on them when do damage the head and end cap

 

Yes, I did replace these retang rings on the exhaust camshaft to new plastic ones yesterday. It was my last resort and you are 100% I did see the wear from the old metallic rings

 

Depending on how much the end caps and head surfaces are grooved will have effect on lack of oil pressure to control vanos

above was my last refresh i done this one was on the borderline of wear on end cap and head surface notice the groove cut in , below is pic of what they should look like

above is fairly good and really what want to see, 0.5mm of a groove can be enough to stop vanos timing , could try some lucas oil additive or some stem seal additive that makes them swell up might help the rings take up the wear,
below link does both worth a punt

Engine Oil Stop Leak « Lucas Oil Products, Inc.

lucasoil.co.uk

 

Update: I'm no longer certain about what is happening, but the error has stopped appearing. The engine has started to operate, more or less OK.
This morning, I started the engine, and it ran roughly:

After a few more start/stop cycles, the sound normalized:

I suppose, I'll take the car out and test drive it on the road to see if any further issues arise.

My best guess is that the replaced Vanos Sprocket helped. However, I think the sprocket itself doesn't contain enough oil inside. I believe I saw a similar post from you, @mike1967, on the forum.

 

Thank you. I will do a road test. If it fails, it's going to be my next adventure. This is because the groove was somewhat close to 0.5mm; I didn't measure it, but the groove was noticeable.

 

The road test failed with new error codes 😞

 

Opened the head again. Timings are perfect, removed camshaft, below are the pictures of my groove from previous rings

 

@mike1967 are there any way to polish, or fix it?

 

I use a dremel and metal polish i scotch brite coarse pad first then polish them , if you don't polish them they will wear away the plastic new rings it seems, those look very bad to be honest and if that was in front of me i would likely be search for another head by now,
that said I have before cut deeper grooves in 2mm deep and used jb weld to fill the groove back up to flush and its worked got a couple of cars i know of that were give it a go and try to see what happens, I used a round wood sanding block I got made up so stick wet and dry on it and sand surfaces gentle, do not remove anything off the raised parts

 

update:
I polished gently the grooves, placed new rings on camshaft (previously put them in oil for 24hrs), swapped intake and exhaust non-return valves. As a result issue is gone… noticed that intake Vanos values started to jump more… so will order and replace both non-return valves and do road test. Plus added Lukas stop engine leak…

thank you @mike1967 for hints!

 

no probs devil is in the detail lol

 

@mike1967 finally I end up switching the head…. during the switch I found the original issue, please check image

 

After the switch, I started getting a new error: a 296B exhaust camshaft sensor issue. It's driving me crazy!

The sensors are old but were working in the past. I checked the readings, and they get 5V, dropping from around 12V to 0 when I bring metal close, so it doesn't seem like a real issue. Swapping the inlet and exhaust sensors doesn’t change anything. The timing is perfect, and I've reset all adaptations and adopted the vanos settings using ISTA.

In a post from 2011 or 2021, you mentioned that if you mess up locking the crankshaft pin by 180 degrees, it might cause such issues. Is there any way to test for that, a.k.a guide for dummies? Is it possible to fix the problem without removing the head if it was messed up, as I want to avoid the risk of the pistons hitting the valves?

Any other suggestions?

Thank you again

 

needs refreshing

 

I was referring for this reply from you on a similar 296B issue

https://www.mini2.com/posts/4507639/

whem installing the crankshaft lock pin there is only one hole in flywheel but can accidently lock in one direction in to a bolt hole ie engine will be 180 degrees out,, way to tell put the rods in number 1 and number 2 spark plug holes and get level then insert the crank pin when locked try and rotate the crankshaft both ways with a bar if wont turn then thats correct lock point but if rotate crank one direction its wrong, worth a check,

 

Wwlcome to the club:

Although its not a club anyone actually wants to be a part of.

excessive oil consumption. They all seem to get there sooner or later. Oil burning messes things up right proper.

needs new rings and valve seals as a minimum: https://www.mini2.com/threads/p0301...re-lots-done-code-remains-where-to-go-next.369652/?post_id=4546909#post-4546909

 

Yeap, that's why I swapped the head for a rebuilt one

 

what voltage at solonoid plug ignition on should be battery voltage

 

To conclude the thread, the car was taken to the dealer for a DME reflash. After a month of back-and-forth checks, they finally re-flashed the DME, but the issue persisted. I took the car back.

Today, I replaced the exhaust camshaft, and now the car is running perfectly with no issues.

296B exhaust camshaft sensor fault is gone

 

 

Adaptations are great and no errors! Thanks again for everyone who helped with the issue

 

What do you think it was about the new exhaust camshaft that fixed the problem?
Less wear on the end cap so better oil pressure?
I know that some people warn about using the 27mm hex on the sensor assembly as a counter-hold when undoing/tightening the camshaft Vanos. bolts in case the sensor moves.

 

In my case, the camshaft had microcracks (best guess). I think it was not about visible wear. With old camshaft the sensor error appeared immediately after the engine starts. I even did an exhaust sensor wires overlay - I suspected the issue was with the harness. Next reprogrammed DME at the dealer, and after replaced with similar used camshaft. It was used for 80-90k miles before