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Excellent post thanks for all the help. This was my process for the fix:


Here’s the fix I came up with for the faulty ground on the mini tail light assembly.
1. drilled a small hole through the ground plane of the lamp assembly and soldered a section of wire to the metal.
2. fitted a quick disconnect and joined to another wire with a termination on the end.
3. flattened the terminal with pliers.
4. loosened the rear passenger seat belt torx bolt.
5. Mounted the flattened metal terminal between the torx bolt and the bare metal bracket and tightened down the bolt with ratchet.
Tested, worked perfectly.
6. Put everything back together.
7. Cancelled my order for parts on Amazon.
Success.
 
Just to say thanks for this. Used it to fix the burnt out connector on my F56 rear left right cluster. Same parts/part numbers, same wire burnt out (brown earth). I found it to be a pretty simple job, but I am quite handy. Just small fiddly bits but if your OK with that, it really is a simple DIY fix. One thing that might make it easier... On mine I was able to pull the wires out of the original connector with pliers. Pulling each out carefully, but some force was required. They came out clean with gromits and connectors attached so could just be pushed into the new connector block. Only had to rewire the burnt out one...
How did you rewire the burnt one I have the same issue
 
Hello,

Thank you for posting this guide.
I have repaired my left rear light 2 x with new connectors. It is time to get a better earth now.

Please would you kindly advise if you just cut the brown wire from the loom and attach it to a better earth? So the brown wire is still in the connector and then wired to a separate earthing point.

Many thanks.
Yes you can cut the brown wire and ground it to a better point on the car, as long as the connector is not melted. Or else you can ground the entire light fixture from the ground plane of the fixture (see picture in latest post for instructions).
 
There’s no need to rewire the burnt out ground wire in the plug. Once you ground the light to the frame of the car (as per pictures) the light will work perfectly as you’ve created a new ground for the entire light assembly.
Thank you for outlining this fix! I followed your directions and my right rear tail light assembly works again!😁
 
Hi tcmackwood, literally just done your repair, and it’s worked a treat. Although I did use thicker wire, and I have noticed that light cluster is slightly dimmer. Would you think it’s because of the thickness of the wire used…?
 
Hi, glad the fix worked. Thicker wire will not add resistance but actually decrease it. If the entire light assembly on the fixed side is dimmer than the untouched side, the problem is likely the main connection (plug) or the ground. I would check the connection at the plug first, look for signs of corrosion and clean it off if possible. Plug back in tightly and check brightness. Next check your new ground connection and possibly re do it if necessary as cleanly as possible. (You can clean and lightly sand the area before soldering the new ground connection). Hope this helps.
 
Hi, glad the fix worked. Thicker wire will not add resistance but actually decrease it. If the entire light assembly on the fixed side is dimmer than the untouched side, the problem is likely the main connection (plug) or the ground. I would check the connection at the plug first, look for signs of corrosion and clean it off if possible. Plug back in tightly and check brightness. Next check your new ground connection and possibly re do it if necessary as cleanly as possible. (You can clean and lightly sand the area before soldering the new ground connection). Hope this helps.
That’s awesome. Thank you for the advice, I will have a look at this and asses it.
 
Hi I have had this issue 3 times already, we have replaced the light assembly and connector which lasted 3 months and the second time we created a new ground to the frame and it lasted a month, is there any permanent fix to this issue , tired of paying money for this assembly for it to be melted in only a months time , thanks
 
If you're anywhere near as unlucky as I am you may have run into an issue with your Mini Cooper having a complete tail light malfunction whether it is the driver side or passenger side. Luckily there is a solution which is not too difficult but may be challenging if you've never tackled an electrical problem before or worked on cars. I did this repair on my 2015 F55 Base Mini Cooper that had halogen tail lights.

The Diagnosis:

You can refer to the pictures I have attached below as you have a better idea of what I'm talking about. You'll notice there is a side-by-side comparison of a burnt electrical socket and connector. This is caused by a faulty grounding point that is very clearly a manufacturing issue but wasn't considered as a recall for some odd reason. This issue is prominent in several BMW 3,4, and 5 series models as well which is quiet shocking.

The repair:

1. Start by purchasing the required repair kit and parts for this job. You will need a new connector and a new bulb socket replacement. This will run you around 120 Canadian dollars if you prefer to buy authentic MINI parts but you can definitely get cheaper ones if ordered elsewhere online.
Part # for Socket Repair Kit: 61132359993
Part # for Bulb Socket: 63217361305


2. Disconnect the battery from the car as you don't want to short out any electrical components
3. Begin disassembling your faulty tail light. Use a thin plastic tool to remove the chrome trim around your light. The clips are delicate so be sure not to break them in the removal process. You can refer to youtube videos on how to remove the tail light from its housing(just three Torx screws holding in the entire tail light).
4. Once you have easy access to the faulty connector, use a pair of wire strippers to cut the cables free from the connector. Then strip each individual cable exposing about 7mm of the wire. Be sure to take note of which order the cables were plugged into the socket
5. The hardest part of this repair will be re-pinning the connector. Start by sliding the green rubber gromets given in your repair kit over the base of the exposed cable such that the longer side is facing towards the exposed copper.
6. After sliding the gromets over, take the aluminum pins and slide them over the exposed copper and use pliers to firmly affix the pins to the copper wire. The points at which you must bend the aluminum will be quite obvious once you get to this step. Don't be hesitant to trim some of the exposed wire if need be
7. Begin inserting the wires back into the socket in the correct order you removed them from, follow the layout of the old faulty connector for guidance. Any extra empty holes can be filled with the little blue gromets given alongside the green ones in your repair kit
8. Once you are sure that you've inserted the wires correctly, push the pink locking pin closed, there's no going back from here so make sure that you've wired everything correctly.
9. Now it's time to fix the grounding issue. Locate the grounding point of the connector by following the brown cable. This cable will most likely be charred black due to its overheating.
10. I personally made a whole new grounding point by sanding down the paint to expose the bare metal and using a bolt and nut to ground the cable to the body of the car. I assume all the breaks in connections with the plastic piece MINI used was losing contact somewhere so I thought it'd be best to just ground the wire directly
11. After you've created your new grounding point replace the bulb socket on the tail light with the new one you purchased. Just push in the two pins holding it in place. Make sure to transfer the light bulb's over to the new socket replacement
12. After that you're done. Reconnect the connector and your car battery and run a quick test to make sure everything works then retrace your steps to put everything back together
View attachment 281038 View attachment 281039

Hopefully, this guide helps out someone as this seems to be a common issue(even the tech who sold the parts said they sell these repair kits often). Feel free to ask questions if you have any
Great post, bought the repair kit, replaced the plug and bulb holder unit for £34 on Amazon, works well, very grateful for your post
 
I had the same problem starting around 100K on my 2015 F56. First it was the driver’s side, intermittently, then both sides. Similar to previous posts, I fixed it by installing a new ground wire from the car frame (sanded to bare metal)
Image

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to the taillight assembly metal base plate
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instead of soldering, I drilled a small hole and through bolted the wire to the base plate with a ring terminal
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bypassing (and severing) the original brown ground wire.
Image


Though slightly charred, the original plug connection works fine. I lightly wire brushed it and blew it out with compressed air. Plugged everything back in and it works. I used lock washers at both connections, and added a quick disconnect so the taillight assembly can be removed from the car.
 
there is a complete back plate and new plug kit on amazon. I bought the kit and cut the burnt plug off the loom, then crimped the new plug to the existing wires and replaced the bulb back plate. Having done all this, the lights worked perfectly. Having now read the replacement earth solutions from both daniomer9 and kmead, I will follow their leads and solve the left hand side when that fails. Thank you to both
 
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