[kenwrecwulfe]

While you are waiting for one of the more knowledgeable forum members to offer some help google:

"mini cooper p1338 code" (without the quotes) and visit the links.

Error is related to a disagreement between the intake camshaft and crankshaft positions.

Thanks. Yea, I googled that and saw those as possible issues as well. The timing chain came up more often on the various forums and sites that I have checked than did the cam or crank shafts, but could be any of it. Since I do not have a bmw/mini specific code reader or something to reset the computer module, I may end up taking it to a local shop for diagnosis. Just want to have some understanding of the issue myself before I decide.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

that code would point directly to timing chain and would be first place to check , ie fit lock tools and measure the difference on inlet camshaft is best way of doing it, if car done north of 60000 miles its in realms of chain needs doing as they do, many run on to around 100k but do so much more damage to engine by running around out of time over long times etc, i found by treating the timing chains as a 60k service item its better way forward with them, when these engines run out of time for long amounts of miles the retarded running causes higher combustion temps and will damage rings and stem seals ,, also without a scan tool you can trust to see all the codes you really are at risk of not seeing all the issues etc

Car has a little over 42000 miles, but I can check the timing chain.
Thanks!

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

might be a oil solonoid fault or blocked gauze filter on it, worth pulling out cleaning off and see if cures it,

Forgive - unfamiliar with a "gauze filter" - maybe I know it by a different name. Where would I find this on the R60?
Thanks

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

done a 2012 countryman while ago with 60k on it found timing chain guide pivot point broken lodged in the oil pump strainer , i've also had cars with under 50k before with chain failures, theory behind that is oil burning and lack of keeping oil at max mark, think you need a more complete diagnostic scan see what else is stored if anything,

I am thinking the same. I have a couple local shops that have the appropriate scanners to do this. I think that is a good next step, just to identify issues more specifically.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

below pic of new pierburg genuine solonoids and by far the bets ones
View attachment 289240

Thanks for all of the info. Much appreciated.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

below pic of new pierburg genuine solonoids and by far the bets ones
View attachment 289240

Checked the solenoid in my vehicle. It is very clean...

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

there are two of them one for inlet and one for exhaust as yours is n18 turbo engine , might even be one gone faulty and they do go faulty with age, mate of mine works at bmw dealership he was saying they replace a lot of them , must admit i've also had many with intermittent faults and some that go dead short that melt the drivers down in ecu , so just because one looks ok its not always the case,

I checked the one on the top front of the engine near the dipstick and A/C valve. I will have to check the other one under the air filter box later, when I have a little more time.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

when you unplug them do not pull on wiring harness, i always use a hooked spike tool to slip between the clip part on sensor to the plug , those plugs can be a tad brittle

Always do, but thanks for the tip. I replaced the fuel rail this past weekend and the alternator back in Feb.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

you might find a wiring harness fault causing it, they share lives a clue would be in a deeper diagnostics scan if find have other components flags codes can be down to a shared live ,, or one of the items on that shared live fails drags other things linked to it via ecu feed, ie all live direct feeds from ecu are from ecu regulated voltage out puts, some are 12v some are 5v

would dielectric gel/grease be of use in this type of situations on the connectors?

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

you might find a wiring harness fault causing it, they share lives a clue would be in a deeper diagnostics scan if find have other components flags codes can be down to a shared live ,, or one of the items on that shared live fails drags other things linked to it via ecu feed, ie all live direct feeds from ecu are from ecu regulated voltage out puts, some are 12v some are 5v

And on that note - could an ecu reset fix the issue?

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

Mine is a 2015 with 42k miles. I have replaced the (in this order) - alternator and battery (the alternator died and killed the battery in the process), PCV Valve Cover Membrane, the cam sensors, valve cover gasket, oil filter, oil filter cover gasket, oil pan drain bolt brass gasket, the oil, fuel pump, fuel rail, fuel rail sensor, air filter, and lastly, the VVT solenoids. I have meticulously gone through everything under the hood to make sure all electrical connections are attached and secure. Checked the fuses too... Error still randomly pops up. I am taking it to a local mechanic on Friday to run a diagnostic and likely reset the ECU, since I do not have the BMW/Mini diag tool and cannot find anywhere to do the ECU reset online.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

Same thing here. With a cold engine, after resetting it with my generic OBD2 scanner, it clears the code, but takes a while for the code to pop. If the engine is warm, it pops within a mile or so. I will let you know what my local shop says on Friday and if the ECU reset does the trick.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

above are screen shots from a few cars randomly of live data after engines were rebuilt and had new cat and 02 sensors and timed correctly ,, I use these as a template when I get one put back together and it plays up from old parts on outside of engine rebuild,, ie for ecu, vanos oil solonoids, wiring harness or vvt control etc,, out of every 10 cars i do engine refresh on at least half of them have other faults that once get the internals right and know they are right I can then move on to fixing the other stuff,, as I stand by i fix every car and on fixed rate sometimes I give away away many hours for free unlike garages that just keep adding labour costs, my point is process is key and having the scan tools to do it is key

100% - That is why I am going into the shop. It is not, however the local Mini dealer. I initially took it in to them and was told 2800$ for a valve cover gasket change alone...

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

wow that is bonkers rocker cover gasket ie made of rubber etc under £20 uk pounds and takes a under a hour to fit , was speaking to guy the other day he spent £3400 on stem seals and timing chain kit, where I do full refresh for £1350,, but there again its garage labour thin main dealer are £200 per hour in most places , specialist around £80 per hour ,, you need to find some one who work in the trade and does a few out of hours jobs by far cheapest way forward

After that experience with Mini, I have done all of the mechanical work thus far, myself. All replacement parts, etc... nothing out of my own scope of skills. I just didn't want to have to do it. I just don't have the proper diag tool and such to dig deep. The generic scan tool is far to simplistic here to be effective.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

I know bud I use 3 different diagnostics tool on them , from delphi to insta d to snap on Zeus and also got a scope and smoke tester all kinds of stuff even with all that sometimes I get one that tests me ,, think I'm ready to give up like a monster that takes over your life lol,

I am too... Much appreciate the insights, though.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

OK....so, took it into the tech for a proper DIAG. They came back with specifics that the Cam sensors were creating a vacuum issue (the o-rings were too small) and that the oil pressure sensor was stuck open. Also did a smoke test and there was an issue with the valve cover itself. So, I got a new valve cover, oil sensor and 2 new cam sensors, and replaced each. Just got the replacement cam sensors this morning, installed them, and the car has started up without issues. I will give it a drive around at lunch and see if I get any errors that pop.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

so as someone changed the o-rings or sensors , fairly random thing new to me,

I checked the o-rings from the ones that were on there vs the ones on the new sensors and the ones on the new sensors were noticeably larger. When I put them in, it was a very tight fi, as opposed to the mediocre fit of the ones that were there.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

Cautiously optimistic. The test drive went well. Drove around for 15-20 minutes without an issue. I will go out again after work to test again.

 

[kenwrecwulfe]

Thanks for the update kenwrecwulfe and best of luck to you! I took mine back to my mechanic on Friday as well, he concluded it may be the non-OEM replacement Cam Position Sensors I put in from Advanced Auto parts. We are waiting for the OEM sensors from Mini to arrive. I’ll let you know how it works out for me.

You also. I will let you know how the evening drive goes.