Has the battery actually died and had to have been jump started?

 

With the old battery the car was jump started multiple times across the last month or so, which ultimately killed off the battery which was on its last legs anyway. But like I said it now has a brand new battery.

 

You have Two relays in the N14 Cooper S engine setup

below listed with the yellow arrow is the number 1 relay
The red arrow is the number 2 relay

cooling fan fuse is F3

closest ground for the engine cooling fan is X175 it does pay to make sure all of them are secure here is the ground chart

 

Yes I have found these. As I mentioned in order to stop the fan from draining the battery I found removing the one with the yellow arrow stopped it. When I removed the one with the red arrow nothing changed, the fan kept going, so not sure exactly what that one does. I also tried switching them over, this made no difference. Do you still think it could be the relay? As I was thinking it can't be as switching them over didn't help.

 

Yellow arrow is the number 1 low speed relay a clue is the amperage rating the red arrow is high speed. To different speeds. All computer controlled. Mostly intermittent. In brief occurrences some only lasting about 3 seconds.
Obviously your good reason to be alarmed. Although the fan does stay on some times when it is hot.
I personally would do the whole cooling job if it was that bad. Unless you have some type of drainage into the cab with water.
Or have trouble with other electrical issues I would not think it could be footwell module 3 or 2 being the culprit at this point.
A new cooling fan was the standard fair when I had my thermostat changed at 70 thousand or so. Just one example Me.
Not to say it a new sensation all across the nation to have the two part changed at the same time.
I recently changed out everything between last year and about 2 months ago. And that wooped the problem. Especially the climate control heater core temp sensor located under the climate control in the dash.
Those two items cooling fan and thermostat housing sensor do relay important up to date information to the computer.
Opening and closing the thermostat via the thermostat heater element which is that other dongle plugged into the thermostat. Heating the the standard thermostat inside up so that it opens without the water necessarily being up to temperature. Reason being the cooling fan is not working proper and it attempts to cool the system. Eventually it also burns up. Then the standard coil built in the inbedded thermostat inside the housing opens up with coolant is too hot. In order to keep the engine from blowing up.
So that is three different ways to cool a MIni Cooper coolant system.
1.thermostat heating element
2.cooling fan
3. standard coil built into the thermostat itself
1 and 2 work together to maintain a closely monitored temperture. So obvisouly at that rate a radiator would go out eventually faster than most. also with other leaks that are prone like oil filter housing(getting slug or oil into the radiator could also plug things up). With 70 thousand I think a cooling fan would be what I would do. I would do quick as the thermostat heater element is picking up that tab on the heat right now without the cooling fan being able to run it circuit correctly.

 

Yellow arrow is the number 1 low speed relay a clue is the amperage rating the red arrow is high speed. To different speeds. All computer controlled. Mostly intermittent. In brief occurrences some only lasting about 3 seconds.
Obviously your good reason to be alarmed. Although the fan does stay on some times when it is hot.
I personally would do the whole cooling job if it was that bad. Unless you have some type of drainage into the cab with water.
Or have trouble with other electrical issues I would not think it could be footwell module 3 or 2 being the culprit at this point.
A new cooling fan was the standard fair when I had my thermostat changed at 70 thousand or so. Just one example Me.
Not to say it a new sensation all across the nation to have the two part changed at the same time.
I recently changed out everything between last year and about 2 months ago. And that wooped the problem. Especially the climate control heater core temp sensor located under the climate control in the dash.
Those two items cooling fan and thermostat housing sensor do relay important up to date information to the computer.
Opening and closing the thermostat via the thermostat heater element which is that other dongle plugged into the thermostat. Heating the the standard thermostat inside up so that it opens without the water necessarily being up to temperature. Reason being the cooling fan is not working proper and it attempts to cool the system. Eventually it also burns up. Then the standard coil built in the inbedded thermostat inside the housing opens up with coolant is too hot. In order to keep the engine from blowing up.
So that is three different ways to cool a MIni Cooper coolant system.
1.thermostat heating element
2.cooling fan
3. standard coil built into the thermostat itself
1 and 2 work together to maintain a closely monitored temperture. So obvisouly at that rate a radiator would go out eventually faster than most. also with other leaks that are prone like oil filter housing(getting slug or oil into the radiator could also plug things up). With 70 thousand I think a cooling fan would be what I would do. I would do quick as the thermostat heater element is picking up that tab on the heat right now without the cooling fan being able to run it circuit correctly.

Some thermostat housings are different by updated design in relation to the R56 2007 and up models. Requiring a adapter harness. Now nothing is for free. I have not ever needed on of these and mine works fine has the heat inside the cabin and everything is good. Anyway here's that part:

Thermostat Wire Adapter Type 3

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