Hey yall, this is my first time posting on this forum. however I've been running into this issue where my r53 refuses to start. This started when I had went to get gas in the car and after filling the car refused to start so I had some gentleman offer some help, thank god! and we pushed the car down the road to try and bump start it but it completely refused. One of the guys ended up cracking my driver side tail light, damn bikers lol. Anyways, I've found and downloaded INPA and all those related software's, Tool32, NCSExpert, and other similar. In INPA the car reads the EWS fine and shows a few messages attached below.
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From what I gathered off of other forums and calling the dealer to speak with techs is that the EWS isn't communicating with the DME or ECU. All grounds in the car seem to be just fine. I had a slightly low battery so I took that out and had it charged to full. I took that time to also clean up the battery area in the trunk as almost every connection had some sort of corrosion on it. After reinstalling battery and having clean terminals nothing changed. I Must note that I had already checked the starter the old school way of jumping solenoid to the motor and all is well. INPA states the same issues. I had also seen that some Fuses can be responsible for that so I had went and checked every fuse in the engine bay and interior footwell. All fuses are perfectly fine and read fine with Ohm meter and visually look good. I had also heard about a possible hidden ground under the Passenger side seat (US Models) but I didn't want to take the seat out if I did not have to. I'm mechanically inclined, just lazy. I had also done a test that RPM Motorsport has available on their website to test EWS 3 systems. I have EWS 4.3 but from my understanding the plugs and overall operation are the same on both units. Link Here! RPM MOTORSPORT When fuse sits in connector to EWS to bypass to allow crank, it cranks perfectly fine. 12v constant is functional as well as the 12v switched signal. according to the website that usually means that it is a faulty unit and I'm willing to replace and reprogram or whatever but I am also curious of how easy it is to remove the EWS from the DME so I never have this problem in the future. I've already installed a killswitch in the car so theft isn't the concern. I would really appreciate anybody that has either done this before or has some other idea that I could try!
Inland R53
FAULTY EWS? HOW CAN I REMOVE?
Hey yall, this is my first time posting on this forum. however I've been running into this issue where my r53 refuses to start. This started when I had went to get gas in the car and after filling the car refused to start so I had some gentleman offer some help, thank god! and we pushed the car down the road to try and bump start it but it completely refused. One of the guys ended up cracking my driver side tail light, damn bikers lol. Anyways, I've found and downloaded INPA and all those related software's, Tool32, NCSExpert, and other similar. In INPA the car reads the EWS fine and shows a few messages attached below.
![Image]()
From what I gathered off of other forums and calling the dealer to speak with techs is that the EWS isn't communicating with the DME or ECU. All grounds in the car seem to be just fine. I had a slightly low battery so I took that out and had it charged to full. I took that time to also clean up the battery area in the trunk as almost every connection had some sort of corrosion on it. After reinstalling battery and having clean terminals nothing changed. I Must note that I had already checked the starter the old school way of jumping solenoid to the motor and all is well. INPA states the same issues. I had also seen that some Fuses can be responsible for that so I had went and checked every fuse in the engine bay and interior footwell. All fuses are perfectly fine and read fine with Ohm meter and visually look good. I had also heard about a possible hidden ground under the Passenger side seat (US Models) but I didn't want to take the seat out if I did not have to. I'm mechanically inclined, just lazy. I had also done a test that RPM Motorsport has available on their website to test EWS 3 systems. I have EWS 4.3 but from my understanding the plugs and overall operation are the same on both units. Link Here! RPM MOTORSPORT When fuse sits in connector to EWS to bypass to allow crank, it cranks perfectly fine. 12v constant is functional as well as the 12v switched signal. according to the website that usually means that it is a faulty unit and I'm willing to replace and reprogram or whatever but I am also curious of how easy it is to remove the EWS from the DME so I never have this problem in the future. I've already installed a killswitch in the car so theft isn't the concern. I would really appreciate anybody that has either done this before or has some other idea that I could try!
Stick Shift 19% reduction pulley
What can happen is that if the battery voltage drops too low (usually with the ignition left on) the DME and EWS lose sync. The car will crank just fine but not fire at all. You can't jump or bump start it. The immobiliser is stopping the car from starting.
The solution is a DME EWS sync. You'll need a scantool that can do this. I'm not sure even ISTA-D can do it, but ISTA-P and ISTA+ should be able to.
The solution is a DME EWS sync. You'll need a scantool that can do this. I'm not sure even ISTA-D can do it, but ISTA-P and ISTA+ should be able to.
I don't have ISTA either version, I've never been able to find a good download to it. I did the tests from RPM Motorsport and according to their tests it states that the car side is perfectly fine and that the EWS is faulty. Im currently looking into deleting the Immobilizer out of the DME
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