MINI Cooper Forum banner
21 - 40 of 151 Posts
Thats why helpped all 3 people via pm who asked me to sort it? Get your facts right before jumping on someone elses band wagon.
That's all well and good, but what happens when someone, years from now, searches this forum for a solution to their fuel guage not working?

How are they going to find a solution when you've kept it to yourself?

:serious:
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Explain how when I had installed a brand new fuel pump, the fuel guage read as empty? The fuel level sender on the pump was broken, another new pump installed and everything worked.
I only know how mine worked (or didn't as the case was).

The resistance is greatest when its at the highest level not the minimal. I expected it to be the other way round, hence in have a spare left hand sender in my garage.

Logic is reversed....typical Mini style.
 
Johnny.....im not answerable to you, or anyone else. I think you need to remember that.

Bye.
^^^ Nice attitude to helping people solving their car problems.

Anyone searching this forum in years to come and you've not found a solution, and now have stumbled across this thread, just remember that k3fus may have the answer, but...

:eeksurprise:
 
Em... so back on topic. K3fus may have been burned in the past, but he's been a nice help to me. Ive no problem documenting everything I do so hello future mini owners. We're here to help.


Anyways, I opened up the 2 inspection hatches in the back to reveal the fuel pump, and the fuel filter. The fuel filter (drivers side) only has a fuel line going into it so I left it alone, unless there's more wiring inside the tank (though this seems wrong to me). I see what you see in this video at 2.45:
youtube.com/watch?v=rCppUQfNZQQ (cant post URLs yet)

So I abandoned that inspection hatch, and opened up the passenger side hatch to reveal the fuel pump and its wiring. This looks to be the wiring that I followed from the rear footwell, underneath the carpet. Only thing I can say is, 1 wire looks shoddy. See here:
Image


You can see the rubber bung is perished, and loose from the connector. Im wondering has water gotten in and corroded it. Again, need to get my multimeter out. There also seems to be a little nick in the wire too. Need to get my hands on a wiring diagram or something to clue myself in.


Big question I have is, where are the 2 sensors? Diagnostics are saying the right fuel level sensor is registering the max 22 liters, but I though this was located where the fuel filter hatch is. I assume the left sensor is in with the fuel pump.

Oh, and I pulled out the battery for a few minutes, popped it back in, and now my 6.2 diagnostics is saying error code 2. 2= sender failure
 
JohnnyC, is that picture of the 2nd fuel sender unit what is underneath the fuel filter?

Just found this guide:
pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement/17-FUEL-Fuel_Pump_and_Filter_Replacement.htm

Still cant post links
 
JohnnyC, is that picture of the 2nd fuel sender unit what is underneath the fuel filter?
My pic above is the of the fuel pump connections.

I have to admit, when I changed my fuel filter several years ago, I never noticed a fuel level sender. As the fuel filter housing is only pulled up to change the filter, it's not fully removed.

But this diagram shows the sender on the fuel filter housing
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Also, I have assumed that the fuel level from the fuel filter housing travels along the wiring that goes to the fuel pump. Because there's no electrical connections going into the top of the fuel filter housing.
 
My pic above is the of the fuel pump connections.

I have to admit, when I changed my fuel filter several years ago, I never noticed a fuel level sender. As the fuel filter housing is only pulled up to change the filter, it's not fully removed.

But this diagram shows the sender on the fuel filter housing
realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=RE32-EUR---R53-Mini-Cooper%20S&diagId=16_0507]RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Also, I have assumed that the fuel level from the fuel filter housing travels along the wiring that goes to the fuel pump. Because there's no electrical connections going into the top of the fuel filter housing.
Looks like its in there:
i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTYwWDcyMA==/z/hSYAAOSwg3FUiDVT/$_57.JPG


Ill get a multimeter to the shoddy wiring I found, and after that, its time to pull out the fuel filter housing. May end up changing the fuel filter also while im at it. 100k miles on the car.
 
Multimeter said the shoddy wiring at least has continuity through the block. The rubber bungs stop me from getting a reading while its all connected, and wasnt too sure was there much point disconnecting it and measuring since it might just error out anyways.

From the look of the wiring, the middle brown and blue/white wires are power and earth, while the other sets of 2 are probably the fuel sender unit points. The top two (left most in the car) gave me a slightly varying resistance reading. Which the bottom 2 (right most in the car) gave me an open circuit. I suspect this is the cause for the solid 22ltrs in the right tank. The reading is sending back infinite resistance.

Image
 
Quick update on this. The 2 pins im measuring are the left side sender unit. The middle 2 are power and ground. The last 2 are the right side sender unit resistance - They're giving me an open circuit when I measure resistance.

I pulled out the fuel filter side of the fuel system and got a look in at the wiring. The good news is, the fuel sender unit works, and I can read a varying resistance on the unit itself. So I opened up the left side unit (where the fuel pump is) and found the connector from the right unit over to the left (2 wires, black and green). I have continuity between the connector and the top of the fuel pump (pictured below), but I dont have any resistance across the 2 pins inside the fuel tank (black and green wires I mentioned). I'm making the assumption now that the fault is in the wiring between the filter unit and the connector under the fuel pump unit.

Will keep ye posted.
 
If the gauge is stuck on Red LED thats caused by wiring not the sender or sensor etc.

The most common issue is the corrosion with wiring get underneath the back seat .

Remove the round cover of the PASSENGER side Sender unit Check the wiring through .

You will have to remove the bottom interior trim .(The long plastic one from back to front)

Follow the wiring which goes underneath the car immediately below the sender unit before goes back in behind the cover you removed.

Check the wiring there because this is caused by a wire corroded possibly touching the chassis causing short circuit which seems like a sender sensor issue..its not.

Once the wire is fixed turn the ignition off replug the sender connector then turn the engine on.

It's important because the vehicle registered as the connector unplugged and carry on showing RED.

Once you plug in back in and turn it on and off BINGO the gauge is back to normal.

This is 99 put of 100 times is the problem.
 
I had the same problem and it was corrosion in the wiring under the passenger seat, please see my video with the fix.

Sorry can’t post link for a while I need 15 posts, please pm me for link.
Any chance of the link please?
We've got a code 3 but know there is 46 litres in the tank [emoji53][emoji53]
Traced the wiring under the rear seat but no visible damage.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
The fuel gauge will not read above the red led on my car. I know there's fuel in it as I put some in yesterday.

I have disconnected the battery to try a reset but no joy.

It did this a couple of times in August, but been fine since and that was when the tank was brimmed and it worked after 10 miles or so.

I realise the float unit is housed with the fuel pump, but how to test it's that not the wiring?

Do I disconnect it and see if the gauge reads full, as they used to in the good old days?

I'm loathed to assume it's the sender as they are not cheap as it appears you have to buy the pump too. Pulling the pump out without a replacement seems uneconomic too.
Hey, did you manage to fix this please?


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
21 - 40 of 151 Posts